20 Most Recent Whirlpool GGQ8831L Gas Dryer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

replace the sensor on side of the heat tube where valve and ign is located

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

This is a different symptom than the one you requested earlier... This symptom suggests that the coils (booster and holding coils) at the burner valve have failed and should be replaced.


First, UNPLUG THE DRYER!

Gain access by removing the lint filter and removing the two screws that were hidden under there. Now take a flat screwdriver and pry the top panel up (like the hood of a car). There are two clips on each side.
Now the the top is up, disconnect the door switch (it's there on the right). Now look at the front panel from the inside... you'll see a screw on each side (they're 5/16" drive), remove them. Now tilt the panel out toward you about 3 inches, starting from the top. Now lift the panel one side at a time to disengage the clips at the bottom. Now set the panel aside.

You'll see the burner assy. on the lower right. On the top of the burner are two black coils held down by a bracket. One coil has two wires, the other has three. Remove the wires and remove the bracket. Lift the coils out (noting how they were installed) and replace them with new ones.

Rebuild is the opposite of tear down.

Hope this helps! Let us know how it works out for you, OK?

What you obviously have is a blocked filter housing. Get it off and wash it down. Clean out the dryer and open the vent. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

One of them dang bra under wires is probably in the blower housing. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Replace the operator coils. They are intermittant. Typical operator coils look like this:


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The Model # would help to answer this. Is it an evenheat dryer. Should say evenheat above the timer. If it is it will have a computer panel inside the control panel that may need replacing. You will usually see a burnt resistor on the board. If it is not an evenheat dryer, than youmost likely have a bad relay inside the control panel. There are 2 relays. One is the motor relay and one is the heat relay. The heat relay will be the problem. Part # 3405281. I believe its the relay on the right, but cant say for sure without a model #. To check, the easiest way is to order yourself a new relay, theyre cheap. Unplug the old relay and plug in the new one. If it works your set, if not try the other relay. Theyre both the same part, just for a different source. If you have anymore questions you can contact me through my forum at www.washermd.com, thanks

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

if ignitor is glowing but burner fails to light ck/replace the 2 black coils on valve they will sometimes fail after 1st couple of heat cycles

it came off the tensioner or it is broke. pull the belt and see if it is not broke. if it is still loose around the drum, then it just came off the tensioner.

look at the manual on how to put back the belt with the tensioner.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

you may need someone to inpect and check the condition of the unit and it parts inside., some cleaning on the parts inside may needed

pf usually means power failure. Try to clear the screen or hit the off button to clear pf and then see if it works.

It will cost you $15.00 for me to tell you...

There is NO starter on a gas dryer burner assembly. The burner is controlled by gas valve coils and a glow bar igniter. Once the igniter reaches the appropriate current level, the gas valves open and you have ignition. The common problem is a weak igniter. You need to do a current measurement to make sure the igniter is within tolerance. If it is within specs, then I would agree with docjohn174 about replacing the coils. If its not within specs, you need to replace the igniter. Depending on the type of igniter you have, the current rating is as follows:

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

I still need an accurate model number in order to confirm WHICH type of igniter you have.

yes, there is a belt. usually, you need to first take off the panel on the bottom of the front, then the main front panel (the one that has the door in it) then the panel that supports the drum, then gently slide out the drum. you might have to look on the internet for a belt routing diagram for your specific model

you most likely have a bad motor. Motors run around 100 dollars since the machine is 20 years old it would be a good idea to replace it with a new dryer. if i were you i would stick with a whirlpool product.

It does unscrew although at times they do stick. I would find a flat spot on the motor shaft and get a crescent wrench on it and lodge it so it doesn't move and then grasp the blower wheel and turn to remove.

take top off and thermal fuse is clipped onto the dryer manifold.
how do you know you need one if you can't find the original and test it?

It sounds like the timer motor isn't advancing. You will have to replace the timer.

Hi .check to see if you have 240. volts at the dryer outlet.if you do check the element .do you have a meter to check this with.if no you have to remove the element to look at it . if its broken replace the element . you can buy a cheap meter at radio shack or future shop not very expensive .you should get one ,you will use it often.