If you are having dryer problems and you cannot even get the thing to start, then you might want to start going through this check list of possibilities. There are a number of things that can cause your dryer to not run.
A couple of the most common problems are the thermal fuse has blown or the door switch is not operating properly. On many dryers if the thermal fuse blows, the dryer will not run at all. This fuse can be checked with an ohm meter. It should show continuity if it is okay. If there is no continuity then you need to replace it and also find out what else failed. This is a safety device that usually blows because something else allowed the dryer to get too hot. It is usually located in the back of the dryer, on the blower housing. Some are oval in shape and others are rectangular, usually with two wires attached.
A defective door switch or a bent door switch lever can also cause you to have problems. If the lever is broken or bent it will not activate the switch. If the switch is broken, this also will not allow the dryer to be started.
The push (or turn) to start switch can go bad, but is unlikely. To check this, hold it in or turn it and then check to make sure you have continuity with an ohm meter.
If the dryer starts and then stops when the switch is released check the control board or the ?even heat? control on some model dryers. Some dryers have a belt break switch that can fail or your belt may be way loose or broken.
Check for burn marks or burnt wires at the terminal block on your dryer, poor connections can cause all kinds of problems. Also poor connections can cause fires.
A bad power cord also falls into this same category.
Of course, always check that you have the proper voltage to the outlet that you are plugging into.
take vent hose off run dryer, if it dryers like it should then vent hose is restricted. You should feel hot air with the hose off, if not then you will need to clean the dryer of lint that is trapped inside the dryer. This website will assist you in the dissemblance of your dryer, Hope it helped Tim:
the drum belt has broken off. it cheap to replace it by yourself about 5 to 20 dollars. if the dryer is not getting hot then the coils has either burnt out or has snapped loose and you can find a replacement for about 20 to 100 dollars
There are about seven different possiblities and the prospective solution in each case appears to be replacement of a different part! I suppose if you have the proper testing equipment for assessing each of those parts, you might be favored with a relatively inexpensive fix. I would be embarassed to suggest you replace all in sequence until the dryer works.
Thermal Fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety mechanism that prevents the dryer from overheating. If it blows, the dryer won't heat. Check if the thermal fuse is intact and replace it if necessary.
Cycling Thermostat: The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature inside the dryer drum. If it's faulty, the dryer may not heat properly. Consider checking and replacing the cycling thermostat.
Igniter: The igniter is responsible for lighting the gas burner. If it's defective, the dryer won't ignite. Inspect the igniter for any signs of damage or malfunction.
Gas Valve Coils: Although you've already replaced them, double-check the gas valve coils. Sometimes, even new parts can fail. Ensure they are securely connected and functioning correctly.
Ventilation: Poor ventilation can lead to longer drying times and affect ignition. Make sure the dryer vent is clean and not obstructed. A clogged vent can cause overheating and affect ignition.
Door Switch: The door switch ensures the dryer doesn't operate when the door is open. If it's faulty, the dryer won't start or heat. Verify that the door switch is functioning properly.
Timer and Controls: Check if the timer advances correctly during the drying cycle. Malfunctioning controls can impact ignition. Inspect the timer and control board for any issues.
Whirlpool Dryer WGD4800XQ1 - OEM Parts & Repair Help - PartSelect.com
A "F4E4" (Low or No Line Voltage) code indicates there may be a problem with your home power supply, keeping the dryer's heater from turning on. The dryer will continue to run when this diagnostic code is present. Touch any pad to clear the code from the display and return to the estimated time remaining.
Push to start relay switch. NOTE: If the dryer will not start check the thermal fuse before ordering start switch. The switch is often not the cause of the dryer failing to start. pull the knob off the switch the answer should be visible
Never 'hit' the Start Button, always press it gently. It is part of the main control board.
Whirlpool dryers can be reset by disconnecting the power from the wall socket overnight.
Apart from that, you would need to disassemble it and check the Thermal Cut Out, the Thermal Fuse and the Thermostat with a digital multimeter.
Hunkerhttps://www.hunker.com > ... > Washer & Dryers
This is done by pressing "Start" for a few seconds to restart the dryer. If the dryer does not restart automatically, select a new cycle and any options then ...
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wow, that is a tale of woe.
Well E1 is definitely the thermistor, but you can check it with a multimeter. It may be a bad batch, or it could be the wiring. You should never replace components on guesses, fuses and elements are an easy test. The remanufactured board may also be at fault. The unscrupulous take them off machines, clean them and sell them on untested.
https://www.google.com/search?q=E1+Error+on+Whirlpool+Duet+Dryer
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It is a GAS dryer, that means you can't work on it yourself. Only registered qualified gas technicians can work on gas appliances and that is the law. Plus, if it is the main control board, you want professional diagnostics due to the cost of them.
Try kit 4392067. It's the 4 roller wheel kit with belt and pulley. I use them all the time on that model, but without the Y in the beginning. Not sure what the variation is there.
