your problem might be in the actual vent to the outside. If the vent to the outside from the drier has a clog and will need to be cleaned. Without the proper ventallation the clothes will not dry. I suggest pulling the drier out and removeing the vent hose that connects to the outside and clean it. Once this is done you shouldn't have any problems
first make sure you have power..2nd check to make sure door switch is makeing a clicking noise if not its broke..3rd is the thermal fuse...then start button
possible bad heating element. but, you might just have a thermal fuse, or thermostat that has went bad. If it is the element usually there will be a visual burn mark on the coil of the element. The thermal fuse will still allow the machine to run, but will not allow the unit to heat. usually when they go bad its because there is a restriction in the venting of the unit. Or just. needs to be able to breath better. Try cleaning the Lint from the machine.
The longest distance possible will help with the lint build up don't kink your hose to a 90 degree angle as it will block air flow. Curves are fine and you sould allow for a little leway as you may need to move the dryer at some point .
broken door switch,if the dryer hasn't been cleaned out and you changed out the thermal fuse could be one of the t-stats on the heater box,the model number you sent doesn't come up,Ler7646jqo,open the door,you'll see a tag with the model and serial numbers,on the frame around the door opening.you'll need an ohms meter to check the parts,you have to remove at least one wire going to the part you're checking with the machine unplugged and check the part for continuity,if the dryer hasn't been cleaned out most likely the high limit thermostat on the heater box.if you don't clean out the dryer and vent line it will pop again until the dryer is cleaned,the dryer is running to hot from the lint blocking the air movement and the fuse pops as a safety device so you don't have a fire.
unplug the dryer,pull it out away from wall enough to disconnect the vent line,remove the vent line and pull the dryer out,remove the screws from the back panel that's it.what are you trying to do?
it says from 73 to 83,you have to get the full model off of the dryer and serial number go here appliance 411 and type it inhttp://www.appliance411.com/service/date-code.phpand it will tell you,you can do this with any appliance,hope this helps and good luck with your appliances,make sure you clean out the dryer and vent line at least once a year if it's gas or 12 to 18 months if electric,if you haven't and it taking longer to dry your clothes this is why and mostly so you don't have a dryer fire
i looked up your model dryer,your lint filter is on top so your duct or shute that the lint filter slides into is in the back.unplug the dryer,pull it a little way from the wall,look in the back to see how long the vent line is,then slide the dryer out enough so you can remove the vent line without ripping it off the dryer depending on how it's attached,some are clamped,some just slide out if connected to an elbow piece of vent tubing, taped on or some are screwed on.remove the vent line pull the dryer out and remove the back panel,on the left side you'll see the shute or metal duct, pull out the lint filter and remove the two phillips screws,remove the 4 screws that hold the duct on,remove the duct and clean it out,with a shop vac vac up any lint in the blower wheel and what's visible then set the vac to blow and blow out the blower wheel,the pipe where the vent line connects and the heater box on the right side,put the dryer back together except for the two phillips screws on top.now if the vent line is long i use a leaf blower to blow out the line,just stick the leaf blower into the vent line and blow all the lint outside,first go outside and look at the hood where the air blows out,make sure nothing is blocking it,if there's a cage or like chicken wire remove it and keep it off so no lint can get trapped in it,you want the lint to blow outside freely,before you even start to clean out the dryer and vent you can start the dryer,go outside and check how strong the air is blowing out and then check it after you clean it out,it should be stronger,another sign that something is blocked is your clothes take longer to dry.now you should pull the front apart and clean the inside cabinet.watch video,it will show you what to do.hope this helps and you should do this around every year to 18 months.it's easier than it sounds to dohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGIG8Wo5-N4
nope,, but
all dryers are generically the same
remove the front panel and door
pull the drum
loop the belt around the drum, at apporximately the wear marks of the old belt
reinsert the drum
loop the belt around the motor pulley
pull the tensioner pulley hard against the spring to the end of its travel
loop the belt around the tensioner pulley
allow the tensioner to move back under spring pressure to tension the belt
rotate the drum by hand to make sure the belt is aligned and not coing to jump off the pulleys
reinstall front panel & door
the tensioner may be on the bottom belt run pusshing up, or the top run pulling down
breaking belts sometimes pull the tensioner out of its mounts, there is only one place that the tensioner will reinstall.
Its a standard whirpool dryer, rebadged as hoover, so the local parts guy has the belts rollers felts and glides as necessary, they are common to all the dryers whirlpool makes.
You have a short in the system. Get you a circuit tester and start checking the lines, and the element. If it blows right away , you have a wire touching another or the body. Make sure you have the right size fuse and not to strong as this could lead to a fire.
most likely it's blocked with lint.all a dryer does is move air,if something is blocked the air can't move and it takes longer and longer to dry clothes.your lint filter is on top,unplug the dryer ,pull it away from the wall, disconnect the vent line,remove the back panel,on the left side you'll see a metal duct that the lint filter slides into,take that off and clean it out,first remove the lint filter and the two phillips screws that are in front of it on the top panel.now go in the back and remove the four screws that hold the duct in,clean out the duct and if you have a shop vac vac up any dust you see bakc there and then set it up to blow and blow through the blower wheel until it's clean,put the duct back into place,now if the vent line is long you can blow that out with a leaf blower,first go outside and make sure nothing is blocking the outside vent,if there's a cage or anything outside that's blocking the air from blowing out remove it and don't put it back,go back inside and blow out the vent line,put the dryer back together except the two screws in front of the filter on top,with a screw driver pop up the top lid,you'll see two 5 1/16 screws one on each side of the front panel around 2 inches down from the top,remove them disconnect the wire harness on the right side and then pull up one side at a time to remove the front panel,if you don't want to pull the drum use the shop vac to blow all the lint from in the back forwards and vac it up,put it back together and do a load,you should see a big change in the time it takes to dry the clothes.go here to see how to take dryer aparthttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGIG8Wo5-N4good luck and i hope this helps,i can't see it being a part because if a part goes bad it will work or it won't,the only other thing i can think of is the cycling thermostat could be bad or if you use cling free sheets lint could be stuck on the back of the t-stat,when you're in the back and have the duct off,look to the right down low,you'll see the t-stat with four wires on it,just remove the screws,don't have to disconnect any wires and look at the back of it,clean it off if you see any white film or lint on it,i've seen this happen before.hope this helps.
the tensioner may be on the bottom belt run pusshing up, or the top run pulling down
