Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Press and hold the End of Cycle Signal button for 3 seconds or until the Control Locked indicator turns off to unlock the control. This button actually has the marking below it that says " Hold for 3 Seconds to Lock/Unlock Control". You have to check the control for any stuck button and unstuck it if the control still cannot be unlocked with the End of Cycle Signal button and unplugging the dryer for at least 15 minutes. Let us know if the problem persists.

If you have 220v going to the unit you want to take the bottom pannel off. It should be three tork screwws. Then there is a little white fuse mounted on the blower houseing. This is the most common problem especally if your vent has not been cleaned in a while. (over 3-4 years.)

you may have a bad motor control board they are very expensive. There are screws on rear top panel and the top slides off. The board is located on the left side. If you hear a click when you start it then there is a relay got on board.

if you checked all the t-stats and they checked good the only two things left is the board and the motor,it takes 240 volts to get heat 120 comes from the board and the other 120 volts comes from the motor,first go to the block where the cord connects to the dryer and make sure you have 240 volts there,but you say you changed the thermister and you had heat?check both thermisters to see if you get the same reading on them both should be around 10k ohms,that could of been coincidental With the resistance value at room temp on the thermistor being good then this would not be a thermistor error. There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the Control board. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the control board side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

not make for large blanket change the white fuse air not going out

In many machines, those elements, which are manufactured by "robots", are very cheaply made. Rather than risk a fire, perhaps an investment of 20 - 30 dollars for a new element might be a good idea. If you decide to do this, take a second look around for what specifically is getting so hot it is melting. Likely the loose wire inside the element is doing that problem. I should guess it is out of it's place and is melting an adjacent wire outside the heating element. God bless your efforts.

next to the motor could be a silver capacitor..................may be duff........with the lid off............ powered on..........push the top of the drum...........if it starts going........its the capacitor................be careful.......... cheers

Yes it is either the belt or the guide wheel which will smell like rubber if it is bad

You must have a bad thermistor. The program aint getting any signal from it and dont know the temp inside the dryer. When you call for drying the control checks with the thermistor mounted on the blower housing inside the machine. The reading informs the control the ambient air temp. The dryer kicks in and does another check after a moment to see if everythang is kosher. If it determines dampness then it continues onward till the desired resistance reading indicating the clothes is all dry and she goes into cooldown no heat to allow the clothes to keep from wrinkling. You either have a bad thermistor a bad control or a bad connection between the 2. Look for Dan Webster youtube appliancejunk repair manuals and find your free manual i have in there. Thanks good luck. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hello Cdewlodge, we sincerely regret to hear this. If resetting the Dryer did not help then we would recommend scheduling service. If you would like for us to schedule service for you, please email us your address, phone number, the model and serial number, the website you were contacted on, Fixya, your review ID, and date of purchase to [email protected].

There are screws on the back of the top panel. When you remove the top panel, there screws become visible that hold the front panel on.

Clean the lint trap and make sure you have good fan operation. Check your outside vent for good air flow. Could your burning smell be electrical wiring? Does it smell like plastic burning or lint burning? These are things one needs to know in order to locate the trouble.

Any service codes showing (E1,E2...)? Does the drum turn if you hold the start button in? If so, do not continue hold. There are a couple of safety switches that will keep the dryer from running if they fail. One is the dryer door switch and the other is the belt tensioner switch. If the door switch fails, it will appear as though the door is open, thus will not stay running. If the belt switch fails, the dryer thinks the belt is broken, resulting in a no run condition. If you are handy with a volt/ohm meter, these can be checked. Make sure it is unplugged before removing any panels.

This advise is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet front loader washers and dryers with a Control Lock problem. This may or may not be an indication of a serious problem. In the majority of the cases, this is a simple operator error. Nearly all these model appliances have some sort of Control Lock feature on the front panel now. This is a designed safety feature that is used to prevent small children from manipulating the controls. The controls can be easily locked or unlocked by pressing and holding the following button on the front panel: Whirlpool Duet Washer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds. Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds. Kenmore Elite Washer - Press and hold the DRAIN/SPIN button for 3 seconds. Kenmore Elite Dryer - Press and hold the AUTO DRY LEVEL button for 3 seconds. These instructions may not be all inclusive for all Kenmore and Whirlpool models, but they are the most common. Chances are, if you have a Control Lock feature, the instructions will be printed on the front panel adjacent to the button that is required to lock or unlock the controls. NOTE: These instructions may also work for newer model Maytag, Hotpoint, Admiral and Fridgidaire model front loaders as well. Refer to your owner's manual or front panel for instructions pertaining to your sepcific model. If the Control Lock feature will not lock or unlock the appliance, unplugging the unit for AT LEAST 30 minutes is recommended in order to reset the main control board. In many cases this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches. Hopefully, this simple advice will save you an expensive service call.

BAD MOTOR WITH DAMAGED WINDINGS

it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Hello Sanya; My name is peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician. You have one of two or both problems. 1.) Restricted air flow - If you do not have the high air flow to remove the hair you may be plugged up with lint. In the back of your dryer is a hot air distribution manifold. This is easily removed by several screws. Usually the bottom smaller port get plugged up and needs to be cleaned out. The other item is the moisture sensor. It may be bad not drying the clothing enough for the hair to break free. This is located in side the front. You will have to remove both the top and front of your unit to access.

i need help fixing my 5 year old dryer. whirlpool duet model GEW9200LW1. I have replaced the thermistor. I tested (with an ohm meter) the heating coil, thermal fuse, high limit thermostat, & heating element and they were all fine. I replaced the electronic control assembly and the user interface. THE DRYER STILL WONT HEAT.
Then it occurred to me that the sensor may not allow the dryer to heat if its not sensing wet. Could this be true? Have I been trouble shooting this wrong?
Help me.

I don't have the code list for this dryer, but I'm thinking the door switch maybe the problem.

check the door or transport lock