20 Most Recent Whirlpool 24 in. DU920PW Built-In Dishwasher - Page 5 Questions & Answers


EVER THINK ABOUT CHECKING IF THERE IS WATER INSIDE . FILTERS (SCREENS) PLUG UP , VALVES FAIL TO OPEN ALSO CALL A LOCAL REPAIR SERVICE TO TEST AND REPAIR IT

Whirlpool... | Answered on Feb 15, 2019


Whirlpool... | Answered on Feb 13, 2019


THEN CONTACT RETAILER OR WHIRLPOOL ABOUT YOUR WARRANTY IF YOU MESS WITH IT THEN YOU WILL VOID ANY AND ALL WARRANTY IT HAS

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jan 26, 2019


Is your dishwasher hard wired into the house power system ... or plugged into a wall outlet under the kitchen sink?
You mentioned you turned off the power ... how? via the circuit breaker or disconnecting it from the wall? If your unit is plugged into an outlet (and you depowered by cutting the breaker) ... I would check the cord and outlet .. it might be as simple as that.
If that is not the problem ... trying a reset.
Below is a generic one for Whirpools which may work on your model
To reset it, you will have to have the door open. It can not be latched. Press "Heated Dry," "Normal," "Heated Dry," "Normal" within three seconds of the first pressed button. Now close the door, this should reset your dishwasher.
Good luck on your troubleshooting!

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jan 12, 2019


This repair works for an older Whirlpool dishwasher, but I think several other brand-names use the same design as this brand/model and the fix could apply to them too.

I had a large leak coming out the front of my Whirlpool Quiet Partner II dishwasher this week. Some of the fix-it websites online said the likely cause was a crack or split seam in the lower spray arm; but upon inspecting it I found no problem there. Further, I discovered a seemingly inexplicable discrepancy when I ran the dishwasher with the spray arm off: it didn't leak at all then; but when I put the spray arm back on it leaked bad just like before.

What I discovered upon looking more closely with the spray arm off was this: there were severeal stainless-steel screws that hold the round top onto the pump/impeller housing, creating a gap between the two. I tightened the screws back down and ran the thing with spray arm back on, and presto! No leak.

I concluded with the spray arm on, there's enough back pressure that water was shooting out through the gap at the front of the housing, aiming directly at the hinge gap inside at the bottom of the door. But the reason it didn't leak with the spray arm off is because all the water was able to shoot up freely with no back pressure forcing water out the aforementioned gap.

You need a T-15 Torx bit to tighten the screws down; I'd advise doing that by hand instead of with a power screw-driver: a power tool will have enough torque that you can crack the plastic around the screw hole--which in fact I did, though not enough of a crack to create a problem.

I'll post photos and a video showing all this. Hope this solves your problem like it did mine.

Jonathan
Athens, Ga.

PS After I fixed the leak I got curious and took all 8 screws off and removed the round top piece, and found there's a black rubber seal/gasket that helps prevent water leaks, and a small piece of glass from some broken glassware earlier had wedged itself up under the rubber gasket. Probably not enough to prevent it from sealing sufficiently; but it might be a good idea while you're there to check that the gasket is in place and not compromised by foreign matter. And while you're at it, inspect the drain inlet fins below: I found a large piece of a broken wine glass, two metal screws, and chunks of paper residue from labels that had gotten washed off. Had to use tweezers to pull all that junk out. It would be potentially disastrous if some of that stuff had gone deeper and wrecked the pump . . .377654bb-8c7c-4d13-8475-3118a8d9dd2e.jpg

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jan 11, 2019

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