20 Most Recent Whirlpool LXR6432JQ Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

just buy the clips, watch a video to remove the housing of the washer. it is a simple fix. should be below $20 to get the clips, jhttp://www.partselect.com/PS874751-Whirlpool-3956205-Balance-Ring-Top-of-Inner-Tub-White.htm?SourceCode=1&SearchTerm=LXR7244JQ1&ModelNum=LXR7244JQ1#Instructions

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(no promises but try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi

wait a moment pls

In line fuse could of blown or door switch is faulty.

Not always a Timer issue. could be stopping at the cold fill part of the cycle which is the 8 o clock position on the dial. This would be fault with the cold fill vavle.

This problem is commonly attributed to a loose or broken lid switch.

If your washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, the problem is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

If you have any questions about this repair, or if you need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

The thing you were poking with a screwdriver is called a lid switch. That would be bad. The cost is about $45.00. You can buy one online or from a appliance parts distributor. Good luck! Make sure you rate me.

The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. If the model number is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 3949247.

IMPORTANT: It is strongly recommended that you replace the lid switch if defective. However, if you need to use the washer in the interim while awaiting parts, you can by-pass the switch by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG washer.
2. Unplug the lid switch connector from the timer and remove switch.
3. Cut the white plug off the end of the old lid switch, leaving about two inches of wire on the plug.
4. Cut the ground wire (usually green in color) flush.
5. Take the remaining two wires and splice them together.
6. Take this plug and plug it back in to the timer.

You have now by-passed the lid switch. Caution needs to be exercised when operating the washer without a lid switch. Make sure you turn the timer off before opening the lid to stop the washer.

NOTE: Keep this by-pass plug in your toolbox for future reference if you ever experience lid switch problems again.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

This is typically due to a drive coupling. The coupling is an equivalent to a belt, it wears out over time and needs replaced, it is part number 285753A and runs about $15.00.

Here is a link to a drawing of the location. It is part 13 in the drawing.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fW0402073-00004.png

most likely pressure switch is bad

You probably have a bad bearing at the bottom of the tub or damage to the gearcase.

Hi,

Although all brands are different in design, the basic concept is the same. Water comes in at the top, and goes out at the bottom. A pump forces the water to go in a particular direction. When a machine won't drain, there are several things to consider:

* Is the drain hose kinked?

* Does the lid switch click when closing?

* Something in the pump or hoses? Check the hose coming down from the tub for socks, rags, etc.

* Bad wigwag?

* Broken belt? Broken drive coupling?
* Current to motor? (Use voltmeter to check)

Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

What you have is a broken drive coupling. When the washer goes into spin the pump does its thing but the tub does not because the drive coupling is broken.

SOME REPAIR PICTURES WITH
REPAIR MANUAL If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The problem you are experiencing comes from worn agitator dogs located in the agitator cam assembly. The following link explains how to disassemble the agitator to access the cam components:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r823955-replacing_agitator_dogs

In most cases, the small cam "teeth", called "dogs" wear out due to normal wear and tear and require replacement. I have included the part number in the link provided. Replacements can be purchased at appliancepartspros.com for about $5. If you need an illustration to assist you, searspartsdirect.com has some excellent exploded view diagrams that you can use for reference.

If you have any questions about this repair, or need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.