20 Most Recent Whirlpool Gold Duet GHW9400P 3.8 Cu. Ft. Front-Loading Washer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

3.8 cu ft.


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"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

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1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.


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Press and hold the End of Cycle button for 3 seconds or until the Control Locked indicator turns off. Unplug the machine for at least 30 minutes to forcibly reset the control and to eliminate the possibility of an electronic glitch if the End of Cycle button does not unlock it. Replace the control if unplugging and the End of Cycle button fails to unlock it.

The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.


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FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:

•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.


- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.


"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.

If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.

There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.

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Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description..."Turned off the hot water valve and the leak stopped"

...you likely have a faulty inlet/water valve. there's an easy way to confirm or dismiss whether it is the valve or not, but you've already done that, so you can skip over the diagnosis and go straight to the solution/install below.

1) First drain the standing water which presently exists, if any.

2) Unplug the washer from the wall/power outlet and allow a period of time to pass, 12 hrs or so. If the unit has standing water in it after wards you need a valve.

If it doesn't have water in it after-wards then the valve is being energized when it is plugged in even when it should not...that indicates a faulty control unfortunately, but not very likely.

The valve # is 8182862 and varies in pricing around $40 - $75.

It should be available at most brick and mortar appliance part locations or if you prefer on-line shopping try "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" or "appliancepartspros.com" to name a few.

To swap out the valve simply follow these steps...

**Unplug the unit from the wall before attempting any repairs suggested here...safety first**

1) turn off the water and unfasten the hot & cold fill hoses going to the washer.

2) remove the three screws along the back of the top panel and then slide the top panel back slightly and pull up. The panel should lift away.

3) in the left rear corner ( when observing from the front of the washer )you should now see the valve.



4) remove the wires, carefully the harness has little release tabs which must be bent back slightly to pull the wire & harness off.

5) remove the hose to the dispenser assembly, a pair of pliers or vise-grips works well here.

6) remove the screw on the outside back wall of the washer and pull the valve out, voila !

Reverse order to put the new one in and good job. You potentially saved yourself $200 or more for parts and labour.

Hope this answers your question but more importantly solves your problem.
Thanks for choosing FixYa for your repair solutions today. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Please take a moment and rate the solution provided for you as well as a testimony if you feel it warranted.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

The "F21" on your model of washer indicates the machine has detected a fault or obstruction in the drain process.

Chances are the pump is being obstructed by debris or some other foreign object as opposed to being faulty, although that can`t be ruled out...yet.

Here`s how to check it and clean it...

**Turn off the breaker at the service panel or unplug the washer from the wall socket...safety first**

1) locate the screws in front at the very bottom of the panel below the door and pull the panel down and forward until it is off. They will be either 1/4" hex head or #20 torx head screws.

2) You will immediately see the drain pump in front of you with a large removeable filter. ( **see image below...this is were a wet-dry shop vac and towels come in handy, also the use of the removed panel as a catch pan is beneficial...but you may still get wet )



3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removeable filter.

4) Re-insert the filter and before placing the panel back run a test rinse/drain cycle to inspect for leaks and to varify the unit drains and spins now.

( If the problem still exist`s the "F21" will re-appear. If so you`ll need to check the drain hose, hose from pump to tub for other obstructions ).

5) If all appears OK after your efforts, well your efforts paid off...pat yourself on the back. You just saved yourself potentially a hundred bucks !

Now You should be good to go. Re-attach the lower panel and you`re back in business.

**NOTE: if this still fails to remedy the F21 or if it returns immediately during the next drain you will likely require pump unfortunately...part # 280187 available at "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" etc.

Let me know how it goes and if you require further assistance.

Thanks for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the solution provided for you here today.

Good luck.

macmarkus :)

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. To resolve this issue and to unlock the controls you’ll need to press and hold the END OF CYCLE button for 10-15 seconds. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

The "FH" error can have several causes, so this can sometimes be a tricky problem to diagnose. Some of these error codes can also be erroneous. The first step to troubleshooting your problem should be to unplug the washer for at least 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main computer (or brain) of the washer. Sometimes this is all it takes to correct minor glitches. If your error code reappears following a reset, then you know you have a genuine problem. If the "FH" error persists, the following link explains what to do:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r615354-fh_error_code_whirlpool_duet_kenmore

Although, you may be correct in your assumption of a possible water inlet valve problem, I would recommend you read through the link provided and try to eliminate the easy things first. Check your installation for a possible siphoning issue, followed by a check of the drain pump. If those items check good, check the sediment screens in the water inlet valve. If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you use well water, the sediment screens can become clogged with deposits and debris. If you suspect a clogged inlet valve you can also remove it and thoroughly clean it in a 50/50 solution of water and distilled vinegar. Allow the inlet valve to soak in the solution for about half an hour and flush real well with clean water. Avoid submerging the solenoids and electrical connections, or getting them wet.

If you have questions along the way, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Error code F/H means no water was detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected. If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed. It can also happen if the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash. You’ll need to Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

can u provide me sum details about your plug 2 surf device model...?

kindly install the drivers for plug to surf or it might be problem with your modem for that you have to visit nearest tata indicom outlet

Hi,

Press and hold the End of Cycle Signal button for three seconds. This will turn off the Control Lock feature.


Thank you !!

Remove the bottom panel with a quarter inch nutdriver. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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Pl give me a ‘very helpful’ rating for the free help, thanks.

no, the board and wax motor is one possible problem but more likely youll need the motor kit with spped control. even more expesive but prove to be a big problem with this washer

Press 'options' & 'select' for 5 to 6 seconds, controls may unlock (depending on your model) If it is a key you see, it is the child lock.

There is a manual unlocking tab located at the bottom of the door lock and switch assembly. Disconnect power to the washer before accessing it.

Remove the three screws attaching the lower front access panel to the cabinet then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to access the screws more easily.

Reach up along the inside of the front panel and locate the bottom of the door lock and switch assembly on the right side. Locate the tear-drop shaped tab then gently pull it down until a click is heard, and then open the door.

Remove the bottom panel and the tech sheet will be inside there: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574284-checking_the_drain_pump_on_a_front_loade

Courtesy jsrock516