Top 10 Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959K Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

I have the same washer. Over the past weeks I have had all sorts of error codes. In no particular order, I've had: CA, CI, ld, ob, and SL. Had a repair guy come out and put in a new pump. Didn't solve the problem. Had a more experienced guy come out from the same company. We basically tore the thing apart. We found an underwire from one of my wife's bras (she wondered where it went) along with a bunch of lint in the recirculation tube. You can see the outlet of the tube at the top back of the drum. We also found one of her small booty socks inside the tub blocking the drain tube. We fished everything out and it works great again. I have a two foot long cable grabber that we needed to get the sock out of the tub. You'd be amazed at where things can get trapped in these things. So, I spent $230 or so for a pump that I probably didn't need, but the new pump design is vastly superior to the old one so I'm not complaining too much. The company didn't charge me for the repeat visits, which was nice because the senior repair guy was at my house for about four hours at the end of his day. So the more experience guy and I brainstormed about why all the different error codes came on and this is what we came up with.

CA and CI -- These are current fault codes. Either the average draw or and instantaneous draw tripped a set maximum. These were likely caused by the pump trying too hard to pump thru the blockage in the drain line.

ld -- This stands for long drain. The pump must be able to drain the water form the tub within a certain time frame, if not, you will get this error code. Again, likely came from the sock blocking the drain tube. This may have also came on because the washer recirculates the water throught its cycle. With the recycle tube clogged by the underwire and lint, the only place for the water to go was out the drain. With that being clogged as well, the ld code comes on at the beginning of the cycle.

ob -- stands for out of balance. This one confused me a bit, because I was getting an out of balance signal with nothing in the washer. Apparently, with too much water in the tub and the thing sloshing around, an ob signal is very common with the drain clogged.

SL -- is for suds lock. You can get this one if you put too much soap in the thing. It can also come if you use conventional soap instead of high effencicy soap. I only got this one once. This message can also be caused by a faulty pump.

Hope this helps anyone with these problems. I wouldn't have wanted to tackle this one myself, but probably could do it now after helping with the repair last night. I know these machines have a bad reputation, and I wouldn't buy one of these again, but when its working, my wife and I think it does a good job washing our clothes.

Press and hold the Broil button for 5 seconds. You will see the c change to f. THen change the temp to what you need.

If this is a Calypso, there are retaining clips holding the top down in the front of the washer. You will need to look along the seam where the top meets the front panel the washer about 2 inches in from each side. Using a putty knife, insert into the seam and push straight in while lifting on the top. The retaining clips will release and the top lifts up. It may take a second set of hands to make this a little easier. When you get the top lifted up, there will be a couple of screws holding the front panel in place. Remove them and you have access to the interior of the washer. If this is not a Calypso, please post back so I can give you correct advice. I hope this helps you.

Here is a link for the error codes on calypso, in most cases it is a blown fuse on the motor control board so I would first check that. Hope this is helpful and please remember to rate this solution.

The following list of codes indicates a possible electronics communication problem with the washer:
Cabrio washer - F1, F2, F40, F41, F42, F50, F51, F52, F53, F54, F72
To remove the error display, press Pause/Cancel twice.
PLACEHOLDER FOR ART
If Pause/Cancel does not work:

1. Unplug washer or disconnect power for one minute.
2. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
3. Re-select the cycle and press Start.

NOTE: If the error remains on the display, call for service.

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The C1 error is displayed when the motor tries to pull more than 26 amps to run.

This indicates a problem with the motor or motor controller.

Overloading or excessive suds can also cause this error.

If you like to make a few more checks then the image below contains the instructions for entering the diagnostic test mode.

Its a short cycle that runs all of the components so the operation of each can be checked.

I hope this helps but an intermittent C1 error can be hard to pin down.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbrrkqqwkwbqsdgxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kdkftbfkwxkfsqdgqsg/1/1303472/5961857/image5668img-or.jpg

From the service manual....

"C1 = Average current limit Or Instantaneous current limit.

If a status signal comes back from the motor controller that a current
limit has been breached, the unit will return to standby mode and
display either CA for average current limit trip or Cl for
instantaneous current limit trip.

Average current trip occurs if there is a 2 second average of current
draw greater than 5.55 amps
at the motor windings.

Instantaneous current trip occurs if there is a spike of 26 amps
instantly at the motor windings.

This may signify problems with the drive motor, thermal protector, or
motor controller. Over-loading the unit may cause this problem."


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i have the whirlpool top loader also. Was not quiet a year old, starts running at random by itself. They sent the repair man out got lectured that it was my fault (too much soap, washer is in basement, I need to call an electrician to check the wiring). Now it drips water into the inside of the washer.
I can see it will eventually be cheaper to replace than call the repairman back.... Won't be a Whirlpool

1E - WATER PRESSURE SWITCH ERROR

* Generated Frequency Signal of WATER LEVEL (WIL) SIW (KHz)

Normal Level = Abnormal W/L Frequency
Low Level = 30.00 Khz
High Level = 15.00 Khz

If the same signal is detected for more than 5 seconds, it is a PRESSURE SWITCH Error. When this error occurs the drain pump will operate for 3 min. and the display will show 1 E indicating a pressure switch error.

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The OB indicates and out of balance condition has been detected by the motor control. You say this happens when the washer is empty also. One thing about the OB error is that the lid must be opened to clear the error and allow the washer to advance to the next part of the cycle. If the lid is not opened to adjust the clothes then the OB error will happen again.

If the OB error was cleared and the OB occurs with an empty load then the motor control has failed.

The drain pump must work. The image below shows how to run a diagnostic test to check the drain pump. Follow the instructions in the image below and check the drain pump operation. If the pump runs and the water does not drain then the sump is clogged. If the pump hums but does not run then the pump needs to be replaced.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkktswgwqtqrbwfxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/gftrgbbtfxfffgqskfk/1/1303472/5961857/image48348img-or.jpg

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whirlpool , simpson , westinghouse are all in the same manufacture house
you problem sounds like the tub suspension rod air dampers have failed
replace these rods and the tub is more stable
at the bottom end where the rods go through the mounts is a plastic cylinder that has a moving piston and spring inside ' the tip section of the plastic breaks free and then there is no air dampening effect
you will have to remove the top of the machine to get to the upper ends to replace the rods
cosy for 4 rods is around $90.00 AUD and can be got from the service agent spares