Top 10 Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

I think what you have going here is some worn agitating ears. In the appliance world we call them dog ears. You have to remove the fabric desp, it should just pop off. Under there will be a cap that you can grab with a needle nose pliers and pull the cap off. Now you will be looking at the bolt that holds the agitator to the shaft. Remove this bolt and you can get to the dog ears and plastic bearing. There is a kit for this and the part number is 3951682. This is not a hard fix...just take your time and observe. Catriver...post back.

our washer smelled like burning and reset button totally fixed it, it was under screwed down panel in back

It sounds like you have a leaking pump. The pump is easy to replace:
#1 Use a shop vac and pull all the water out of the drain line. This will keep you from having to clean up about 1 gallon of water off of the floor.
#2 Lift the front of the machine enough for you to get under and see.the pump just inside the front of the washer.
#3 Lift the 2 retaining clips off of the pump. This will allow you to pull the pump off of the motor.
#4 Remove the 2 clamps off of the hoses.
#5 Install the new pump into the hoses, and reinstall the clamps.
#6 With the retaining clips installed into the motor housing, install the pump.
#7 Attach the retaining clips, and set the washer back on the ground.

You have now replaced the washer pump.

If you have any questions, let me know

Please rate this solution

Is your water on ??if yes than you may have a bad timer.

You brake is failing .Replace it.

The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.

If your dryer doesn't tumble, check these:
Belt,
Motor,
Door switch.

Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.
If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:

Remove the belt,
Check for obstructions in the blower fan housing,
Manually rotate the shaft of the motor.

If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor.

If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.

Go here to see a diagram for your model:
one of two types. "H" or "J"

http://www.repairclinic.com/0079.asp#DiagramH

There are 2 things you can do.
All washing machines have an off balance shut off, some are touchy, some let it run around the house. With wht machine empty, lean it towards you, on the 2 front feet, about 2 or 3 inches and let it drop. The self leveling feet in the rear must BOTH make good floor gontact and sometimes, just the weight of the machine will not adjust them. The other thing is, make sure the load is evenly distributed. Coats, blankets, small rugs etc. are very heavy when wet and they tend to throw all of the weight to one side.
There is no screw holding the yub in place. It hangs on the center post, where the agitator goes. There is however, what's called a snubber. It is a rubber device that looks like a flattened suction cup, that comes in contact with the tub. It helps keep the tub from jumping around too much.

it just pull up. using 2 hands move side to side while pulling up. then take to sink and using warm water and a old toothbrush clean. rinse by shaking water out. you may have to repeat several times the process.

good luck to you.

I am betting it is in the dryer. Here is a video to show you how to open it. Please let me know if you find it in there. Look thru the COMPLETE duct work and blower. I doubt it is in the washer. If it is, it is under the agitator.

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Good Luck!