Top 20 Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven - Page 11 Questions & Answers

Will try to help here.. First off.. when you measure 120VAC at each terminal for the heating elements..what are you using as a reference? Ground? Since your stove is probably wired 220VAC, I would expect to see something across the two terminals to the element that isn't line voltage.. meaning, when you turn the controller to a setting, you should see something more than 120VAC across the terminals and the current will be controlled to maintain a heat setting. The burner that has an open element is indendent so that should not factor in. Heating elements are nothing more than a big resistor that generate heat when current flows thru them. Just because you have one leg of power doesn't mean you have current flow thru it and therefore that is where I think your problem is... You may have an open leg ..Check the power coming into the oven and make sure you have 220VAC across the two line voltage terminals.. Be careful ( very careful ) when doing this...
Hope this helps.

what you have to do is get a couple of nails pull the hinge on the door down far enough to insert the nails in the holes and let it rest against the door this will hold the door at the proper angle to engage the hooks inside the hinge slots on the body of the range grasp the door on each side and insert the hinges in each side to engage the hooks then open the door all the way and remove the nails

The 350 as you stated is a default set point that you see before you start the cycle. What you should see afterwards (start bake) is the current temperature - which would normally be lower than the set or desired temperature - it will eventually get there

Regards

Hi All,

I tired the delayed bake work around and it didn't help me.

So, being a trained scientist... I know just enough to be dangerous! Here's what I learned. (imitate me at your own risk. This thing is on a 220V circuit at 30A... you or someone else in your house could get badly killed if you do something wrong. You definitely want to send small children to the movies, or at least to bed before trying this!)

First, I turned the self-clean on for 60 seconds to see if both elemets were working. The broiler got bright red but the bake element didn't. The door unlocked as soon as I shut it off, so I could I touched an ice cube to a few insided parts to see how hot they were. The bottom of the oven was barely warm, but the baking element instantly melted and sizzled my ice cube.

Good enough for me: Both heating elements are working, so it must be a controller problem.

Next I turned the power off at circuit breaker, and double checked that the oven was dead. I pulled it out of the wall and removed the top sheet metal cover. Inside I found a red plastic envelope containing a "Tech Sheet". It has a schematic diagram, plus a table that explains the error codes and what to do about them. Be sure to read all the dire warnings and the bit about "For Service Technician's use only" before deciding that you are foolish enough to do anything with it. :-)

I undid and inspected the connector for the printed ribbon cable from the keypad to the controler circuit board. (I happen to know, being a scientist, that 90% of all problems in the universe are caused by bad contact) I didn't see anything obviously wrong, so I reassebled it carefully, making sure the ribbon was fully seated.

I then powered the thing up. It said PF for power failure. I pressed cancel for 5 seconds and it said F0E0 which means no pre-existing fault was detected.

I then pressed bake, and lo and behold the damn thing baked! :-)

I'm not certain it was bad contact, since the other 90% of the world's problems are caused by software. It's entirely possible that power cycling was this thing's idea of CTRL-ALT-DEL. Maybe someone can try flipping the breaker off for 10 minutes without taking anything apart, to see if that clears the problem?

I also have no idea how long this will stay fixed....

Has anyone tried calling Whirlpool? 1-866-698-2538, M-F, 8 am - 8 pm Local Market Time, Sat. 8:30 am - 5 pm Local Market Time, according to their website.
Stay tuned... if I'm not back, the thing is still baking... :-)

all oven doors collect grease to some extent, depending on which pane of glass actually got dirty will determine how difficult it is. your owners manual shoudl describe how to remove the oven door, after that, layont it o nthe table and carefully reomving the screws from along bottom panel you should be able to ge tto your dirty glass, might take a few screws, just dissasmble slowly, dont overtigthen screws and above all remembrer how your taking apart for reassmbly

fuse accesse dfron behind unit sorry!

i would try to set fro a clen clycle again, it should try to relock the door and then simply cancel cycle and should reset. or try turning off breaker, upon restoring power it should check the door latch mechinism and unlock

a great reply like this is thanks enough we rarely get them but its no big deal most of us are here to help but you can post to this message and rate me after wards that helps my rating four boxes is great but thank you for your kind reply

See my response to http://www.fixya.com/support/t502356-whirlpool_accubake_oven_problem

It's the same issue. I think.

theres athermal fuse located on the rear of the unit sounds as if its gottren to hot and opened for safety reasons, you see its a quarter sized thermostat with 2 wires leading to it usually on the upper middle of rear cabinet betwwen the broil elemnt hookups, TURN OFF PWER BEFORE CHECKING LIVE WIRES

Most likely the brown stain will NOT come off, if the stain comes off the paint will come with it. Replacing the control panel is the option for making it look good again. Sorry to bring bad news.

A couple people suggested to use a couple of shims to hold the spring loaded part open enough to hook it back on, then remove the shims.

These are the instruction on how to remove and replace the door, be sure you locate the removal pins to being able to put it back

depress the broil button for 5 seconds it will revert back to Farenheit

how to fit a heating eliment to a whirlpool akz451/1x/01 oven please

is this model mounted over the oven as one piece unit?or does it hang above the stove?

You most likely have a defective oven ignitor. Even if it IS glowing, (orange) it may not be creating the proper resistance to open the gas valve to the oven burner. Once the ignitor is replaced, your oven should come on within 30-45 seconds after you set temperature.

i posted the solution under premium problems i don't know how that works but what you have to do is get a couple of nails pull the hinge on the door down far enough to insert the nails in the holes and let it rest against the door this will hold the door at the proper angle to engage the hooks inside the hinge slots on the body of the range grasp the door on each side and insert the hinges in each side to engage the hooks then open the door all the way and remove the nails

Instead of trying to place the bracket to the door from a lowered position at floor level, I positioned the brackets and from a standing position, placed the bracket into the slot, pushed in a downward position and the door went into place.

I have EXACTLY the same problem, occured today 9/25/07. Model RBS305PDQ16. At least I know I am not crazy... You know when Ronald Regan was President the CIA analysts assured him that the Soviet Bloc was ready to crumble because the people were constatly complaining that "nothing seened to work anymore." ...must have included ovens...