Top 20 Whirlpool RBS305PD Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

Sounds like whoever installed your oven hasn't adjusted your door properly and as a result over time probley got worse? any way there should be 3 screws on each hinge the top and bottom screws hold the door in place the screws under the top ones are used for making adjustment with a Philips head screw driver open the door and try screwing in clockwise 2 or 3 full turns and with your free hand feel if the door is moving upward if so repeat the same on the other side and then close the door and see if its made a difference if so and its still loose try again if its made it worse the turn the screws in the opposite direction Let me know if this works

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little: If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem. Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake? When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it. Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it. On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat. Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings. Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard. When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps. First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring. Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element. Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be. To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced. The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

Good Evening! The self clean feature is causing your thermal fuses to fail or open. This is a safety mechanism that when open (bad) won't allow electricity to pass through any longer. The temperature in your oven exceeds what the components in your appliance can handle. If you want your oven to last it's longest, I would discontinue using that feature. If ever the control board or keypad on your oven by way of the self clean feature, we can help you with that. Fixyourboard.com can help. Send all inquiries to [email protected] . Thank you!

There is a thermal sensor usually under the top panel that controls the cooling fan. You can check it for continuity or just pull a wire off and power it up. If the fan stops running then this could be the problem. There also could be a stuck relay on the control board. lets hope it is the thermal sensor.

Look at www.repairclinic.com They are a very good resource for appiance parts.

the cost for thermal cut off is about 20-30 bucks Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times: 1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary. 2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection. 3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires. 4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. 5. 6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good! Surface burners are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter. You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals. On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch. 1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful. 2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires. 3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective. 4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2". 5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced. 6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance. 7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed. If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. ) Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. The oven burner igniter commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced. : rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

"heating and broil elements check ok?"...by using ohmmeter I assume? next step: unplug oven or remove power source; remove back cover of oven and ohm the thermocouple (unplugged) while heating/cooling it. Resistance readings should change quite a bit. If this checks out, your control board inside the panel is fried.A new one will cost $200-$300. If oven is more than 10 years old, I doubt if you'll find one.

A new membrane switch is required. Although they have been discontinued by the original manufacturer, replacement units are available here: E1 F2 is due to a touchpad failure (part numbers: 831541 831543 831544 831545 831546 904520 904521 960314 960315 4451349 4451350 4451351 4451352 4452705 4452706 4452844 4452845 4456309 4456311 4456312 8300449 8300450 8300453 8300454 8300455 8300456 8300457 8300515 8300529 83005324451230 4451324 4451330 4450711 4451231 4451232 4451233 4451327 4451328 4451333 4451334 4451336 4451337 4451339 4451340 4451341 4451342 4451343 4451345 4451346 4451347 4451348 4452857 8300460 Introducing the Ledgestone Technologies Touchpad Models: RBS305PDB1 RBS305PDB2 RBS305PDB4 RBS305PDB6 RBS305PDQ1 RBS305PDQ2 RBS305PDQ4 RBS305PDQ6 RBS305PDZ1 RBS305PDZ2 RBS305PDZ4 RBS305PDZ6RBS305PDB10 RBS305PDB11 RBS305PDB12 RBS305PDB13 RBS305PDB17 RBS305PDB8 RBS305PDB9 RBS305PDQ10 RBS305PDQ11 RBS305PDQ12 RBS305PDQ13 RBS305PDQ14 RBS305PDQ16 RBS305PDQ17 RBS305PDQ8 RBS305PDQ9 RBS305PDS12 RBS305PDS14 RBS305PDS16 RBS305PDT10 RBS305PDT11 RBS305PDT12 RBS305PDT13 RBS305PDT14 RBS305PDT16 RBS305PDT17 RBS305PDT8 RBS305PDT9 RBS305PDZ10 RBS305PDZ8 RBS305PDZ9

Here is the control pad to order.

All parts come with a 365 day, any part, any reason return policy.

the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Hi.If the element does not turn off, possible faults are:Shorted temperature probe.Test temperature probe reading impedance. If impedance is zero or lower than 0.500 Ohms, the the probe is shorted. A good probe reads about 1KOhms.Contact at element. A contact in element wiring harness may cause the element to stay on. Do continuity test between ground and element and on wiring harness.Defective control module. If problem is none of the above, then it is the oven electronic control(ERC). The ERC can be tested reading voltages. Testing must be done by a trained technician.

The f-3 is a bad sensor. The sensor is a probe that mounts in the rear upper portion of your oven. At room temp the sensor should read around 1100 ohms. It must not be grounded to frame on either wire. To replace the sensor remove the screw holding it to the oven and carefully pull the wire through till you get ti the quick connection. Take care not to loose the connection or you might have to remove the oven from it's cabinet which might prove costly or aggrevating to say the least. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi

This Error indicates a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance. Daniel

Hi almost anything cam be jumped out but if it is a safety thing , not sure i would , working in the field we can't do that in case someone gets hurt due to the safetys not working,

Hello,

I would suspect that the blower is noisy its what i would expect to potentially make noise ...if fits in the back of the control panel and it comes on to cool the control board each time the oven is on.

In case it turns out to be the blower thats noisy the part number for it is W10176670


GENE

Hello Brian,
That thermal fuse is going to be the problem..it should be closed at all times..being open it's defiently bad

Gene

Since neither the broiler or bake elements are working I would suspect either the sensor - sensing a higher temperature than set meaning the sensor is defective (Item #29 on the diagram) - http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Whirlpool-Parts/Wall-oven-Parts/Model-YRBS305PDB5/1198/0125300/W0703198/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

You might try the self clean function and see if the elements get hot. If they do then it is most likely the sensor.

Hopefully, that will fix your problem, but if not then it could be in the microcomputer which is a problem because it is a part that is hard to find.

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

This indicates a open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then test the door switch. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have a spring/hinge problem. or a small chance, your door seal is defective.
you may try to remove the door and re-seat it...

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

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hello,

Instruction below.

Unplug your oven. Insert the size 15 Security Torx bit into your multi-bit screwdriver and remove the screws from the back panel. Take off the back panel.

2 Locate the fuse. It should be near where the electrical cord comes into the oven. The fuse is a small white bar with metal caps on either end. Carefully remove the fuse. Avoid touching the transformer or other parts inside the oven.

3 Purchase a new fuse. Most whirlpool ovens use an 18 amp ceramic fuse. Consult your owner's manual to find out what kind of fuse is used, or take the old fuse into the store to find the exact match.

4 Replace the fuse. Put the cover back on and see if your oven works. If it does, replace the screws. If it does not, try a different fuse. If the oven still does not turn on, you may have to have it replaced of professionally repaired.

thanks,