20 Most Recent Bosch WTE86300 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

I found this elsewhere on the net: "F08 means the door was opened mid cycle."

this model has a non service circuit board , if its bad ,, it will have to be replaced , have you had any lightning ? if so .. ide say thats the prob ,

What's wrong with it?

If it is on the side this is normal on some models.

I have owned the same dryer for about a year and just started having this F03 problem. The condensation drain hose is the soft flexible rubber hose coming out of the back of the dryer and it drains into the same drain as a washer. It's easy to pull the hose off its connector at the back of the dryer and just blow hard into it to make sure there's no lint clogging the hose and reconnect it to the dryer. Next open the panel on the left of the dryer and thoroughly rinse (water only, no soap) clean the two parts behind the door (first is plastic and behind that is the condensation filter which probably is loaded with lint). Sometimes the lint in the condensation filter channels (those that run from front to back) can be quite stuck. Use a long pipe cleaner to get in there or a garden hose with a spray nozzle. Shake the excess water out of the condensation filter and dry off the outsides of two parts. Clean all the lint out the compartment where the parts go. There is one more crucial step not mentioned in the manual. Once you remove the condensation filter you will see a small plastic panel on the lower wall of the condensation filter slot. Slide a flat blade screwdriver or a blunt table knife under the panel and gently pop it open. Under the panel is a small chamber that you can't see very well where you will find a slurry of lint/water which is what clogs the condensation outlet. With latex gloves reach in there and clean it out. Use paper towel to get it all out. Blow hard into the dryer through the condensation hose to clear up any last bits. Pop the panel back in place as well as the condensation filter and the plastic part. Take out the lint filter (within the dryer drum compartment) and wash it with soap and water. Use an old toothbrush or something to clean the screens thoroughly. Rinse well and dry it completely. Clean all the lint out of the empty compartment. Put all three parts back into the dryer. Clean all lint off the door. Using paper towel moistened with white vinegar clean the two metal sensors in drum compartment on the front wall and lower left. Run the dryer empty but with heat on for a few minutes to make sure all the water is drained out. Now try drying a load. I think it's a good idea to rinse clean the condensation filter at least once a month since it collects a lot of lint. Hope this works for you.

have owned the same dryer for about a year and just started having this F03 problem. The condensation drain hose is the soft flexible rubber hose coming out of the back of the dryer and it drains into the same drain as a washer. It's easy to pull the hose off its connector at the back of the dryer and just blow hard into it to make sure there's no lint clogging the hose and reconnect it to the dryer. Next open the panel on the left of the dryer and thoroughly rinse (water only, no soap) clean the two parts behind the door (first is plastic and behind that is the condensation filter which probably is loaded with lint). Sometimes the lint in the condensation filter channels (those that run from front to back) can be quite stuck. Use a long pipe cleaner to get in there or a garden hose with a spray nozzle. Shake the excess water out of the condensation filter and dry off the outsides of two parts. Clean all the lint out the compartment where the parts go. There is one more crucial step not mentioned in the manual. Once you remove the condensation filter you will see a small plastic panel on the lower wall of the condensation filter slot. Slide a flat blade screwdriver or a blunt table knife under the panel and gently pop it open. Under the panel is a small chamber that you can't see very well where you will find a slurry of lint/water which is what clogs the condensation outlet. With latex gloves reach in there and clean it out. Use paper towel to get it all out. Blow hard into the dryer through the condensation hose to clear up any last bits. Pop the panel back in place as well as the condensation filter and the plastic part. Take out the lint filter (within the dryer drum compartment) and wash it with soap and water. Use an old toothbrush or something to clean the screens thoroughly. Rinse well and dry it completely. Clean all the lint out of the empty compartment. Put all three parts back into the dryer. Clean all lint off the door. Using paper towel moistened with white vinegar clean the two metal sensors in drum compartment on the front wall and lower left. Run the dryer empty but with heat on for a few minutes to make sure all the water is drained out. Now try drying a load. I think it's a good idea to rinse clean the condensation filter at least once a month since it collects a lot of lint. Hope this works for you.

Took advice...isolated from electricity supply...removed left side panel (side with condenser tank), to access the pump. Cleaned it all out (masses of water and grey lint!) and put it all back together again. Bit fiddly getting the panel back on...no screws left over...result!All working great now.Simpler solution maybe...There is a 'trap door' that can be removed, which gives access to the area where the water and lint accumulate.1) Isolate from electricity supply.2) Take out the condenser unit at the bottom LHS front of the machine (routine maintenance).3) Underneath of where the condenser unit usually lives..at the back...reach in and open the 'trap door'. This needs a flat head screwdriver and you must release the two plastic clips holding the trap door.4) You can now access the area where the water and lint accumulate...which makes the 'float' give a false container full fault.5) Clean out this water and gunk regularly (once a month)!Hoping this will avoid taking the side panel off again...

fo9 is e-prom set up error have you pull the plug out for ten minutes to reset ,if still not working the board and e-prom needs changing

I had the same problem on a WTE8630SGB. There are six plastic insert/clips and I removed the grille panel by lying the machine on its back to get to the underside. Each plastic clip has three fingers and the middle one rotates to release - you are is supposed to be able to press the middle fingers one's lever arm - but it invariably breaks off before rotating enough to release - so i used a very fine screwdriver to prise the middle finger away from its release. One still snapped as the plastic is so brittle. Prise or rotate the bottom three and the top three hinge away. In my my 4 yr old machine there a little fluff build up on the impeller centre and on the (rather strange) cowl lining but on balance don't think it was worth the trouble of removing the grille!
Have fun
Alano, Chelmsford UK

don't panicit,s regulator controler
ucan press on 2 minutes

Above the water collector should be a panel on the front of your machine, open the panel and you will see the condeser.covered in fluff, simply remove the condeser and clean it under an outside tap after removing as much fluff as possible by hand. Push back into place when clean and back to new again.

I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you
go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on both washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

You most likey have a plugged vent ppe or the pipe is to long or have two many bends in it. try laying the vent pipe out and see if you can see anything in the pipe. Next if the pipe is clear check outthe vent door and make sure it is not plugged or the door is not frozen shut.