20 Most Recent DCS (WOTD-227) Double Oven Questions & Answers

I just did this same repair...same part number as above (Part #211696 "Electronic Oven Control, Double).
to install you have to remove two screws on the top of the display section of the oven, as well as several screws on the bottom of it, and the screws holding the close pin/temperature probe socket.
Then you can pull off the whole top section (slowly) and remove the two connectors to the existing control unit.
Then release the ribbon cable connected to the control unit on the inside of the top section (press the two small pins inward and slide up the small front section of the black socket to release the ribbon connector.
Unscrew the old control panel, screw in the new one, connect the ribbon, and then reverse removal steps. Easy!

Had the same problem last week - called DCS (which automatically transferred me to Fischer-Paykel) and was able to order the part from them.  They knew exactly what it was, and shipped to me in CA from CA, it was less than $90.  Just installed it, and the new one works swell.  One suggestion - I drew with a Sharpie on one side of each of the three parts that plug into the board to help align the new one, and to install the wide ribbon cable (not really a cable, but you'll know what I mean), pull up on the two side pieces and the ribbon pulls right out.  Keep it up and slide the new one in and then push the black piece down.  That was the only part that took me a minute to figure out.

Turn off breaker for minute or so if no contact repair man mcro switch bad or out of position. Did he try to pull door right after candle. The motor takes time to clear the hook from the latch. If so he probly bent some thing in the mech that latches the door or on the switch plate that holds the micro switch

Is this a convection oven? Need more info.

what is this part called and where did you get the part number,then i will help.

The replacement part is (or was) Fisher & Paykel #16252 Electronic Oven Control (app. $240 in '06 when I replaced the last one). For what it's worth, I have had two boards fail in the past 10 years. On both of my boards, capacitor C3 (68 uf, 35v) is the part that failed. I replaced the bad cap on both boards (cost $0.16) and the displays were back to normal. Obviously, the failed caps were the manifestation, not the cause of the problem with my boards.

there should be a ventillation grill in housing beneath oven to allow air circulation and cooling

I get this, and F7 sometimes, especially after self-cleaning. Was told by a repairman to turn off the power, the breaker in electrical box and leave off. I usually leave off for anywhere from 5 hours to the next morning and then flip the breaker back on. Then it is fine. Happened to me 4 days before Thanksgiving too!

Hi,

Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...

Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..

Self Cleaning Oven Problem

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have usedthe self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks
llhj

Hi,
Cycling the power off and then on again will sometimes reset it...often you will have to call the customer service number to get the steps to take to unlock that...

Also check out this tip...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101