Top 10 Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator with Adjusta Cube Ice Maker Questions & Answers

Great advice from medeer, I had the same ER DH error code, and my refrigerator began to warm up. I replaced the defrost thermostat assembly part # 6615JB2005H which is located inside the freezer, on the right side behind the white plastic panel. I accessed it by removing the freezer door, all components inside the freezer, and the tracks mounted on the sides of the freezer. Be careful when removing the white panel because a fan is mounted to the left side of the white panel and plugs into the back left side of the freezer compartment.
Found the green technical data sheets under the refrigerator in a small plastic bag near the front.
My refrigerator is 20 months old, just a few months past the warrentee,

If you have a side by side model you need to look at the refrigerator compartment wall on the left of the bottom drawer and move the slide control to the warmer/fruit/vegitable setting instead of the meat setting.
I hope this helped. Please rate my help or ask for more help please. supertechks

Thanks, FixYa, for posting this problem. My husband and I were about to buy one of these and were able to save ourselves a headache. We found out some updated information obtained from Sam, a lead tech at the national Kenmore service center, 888-536-6673:

There are 4 potential manufacturers of this fridge type, only 1 of which made the faulty part, which was apparently finally recalled last month. You cannot tell the manufacturer by the brand name, only by the first 3 digits of your trio fridge's MODEL number (usually listed somewhere on the fridge as well as on the printed manual you received at the time of purchase):

795 -- LG Korea -- some fridges affected, determined by SERIAL number
596 -- Amana/Whirlpool -- not affected
464 -- Maytag -- not affected
106 -- Whirlpool -- not affected

If you have a model number beginning with 795, call Sam or his colleagues, reference the service flash sf46-515, and have them look up your fridge by serial number to determine whether your fridge contains the recalled part. Good luck to all of you, and thanks again!

The battery compartment is at the bottom right looking at the freezer. I has a little compartment that says battery. You will need a small screw driver or similar item to pop open the door.

The freezer will stay cold because a small amount of cold air will be forced through the frost but that will not be enough to make it up to the refrigerator portion. You can defrost the unit by removing the metal panel and allowing the frost to melt. Careful use of a hairdryer can speed up this process. This will likely be a temporary fix. The root cause of excessive frost can be caused by a bad door seal or a defective defrost circuit.

First check that the door seal is good by closing the door on a dollar bill at several points around the door, both on the freezer and refidgerator door. If you can pull the bill out with no resistance, the door is not making a good seal. Inspect the seal and make sure there isn't anything stopping the door from closing such as food, or a shelf not pushed in all the way.

If the door seal is good, the defrost system is likely defective. The defrost system has three main parts, the defrost heater, thermostat, and timer. None of these parts are particularly expensive, or difficult to replace you feel comfortable with repairing it yourself. If you can troubleshoot this by manually starting the defrost cycle. Let me know if you would like this procedure.

I just spent the better part of an hour on this. There is a white flange with two phillips screws. If you take this off it is easier to see the mechanism, but you may be able to get it back on without removing the flange. I removed the flange. The mechanism attached to the door has a hook facing up and a smaller hook facing down. There is a hinged metal bar below this. The bar has a hinged piece with a loop on it. Pull the loop up. Now push down on the piece with the hooks ( it has a spring) and hook the smaller hook on the loop. Do this for both sides. Now the door should slide easily into the slots. Once in the slots, push down on the hook piece and release the loop. Push the loop back in place along the bar. Hopefully this does the trick for you, it did for me.

This is an error code for the icemaker fan motor.
If the control does not see a signal coming back from the fan motor you will get this error code.
Please see the image below from the service manual that explains the ER IF error code.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkbwtkdqbqkgrkkxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ktfgsrbbdxktrrwffdr/1/1303472/5961857/image18067img-or.jpg

The ER IF code indicates a failure of the icing fan.

You may notice slower ice production but the other fans should be okay.

You can select the ultra ice option and see if the fan toggles on.

The fan or the control is bad.

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Possible door switch problem

yes sir,your unit is working well right now, at this stage, freezer section is already at the peak of its performance, it creates suction motion as you close the door (frzr). with this, sometimes you can hear whistling sound or most of the time.it is only a sign that the cooling system is working well.as the temperature goes down it happens, to see it, watch the gasket how it behaves during that moment sir.there is a suction sound.blower is also in suction motion because it diverts airflow going to ref section thus creating this behaviour on the gasket and the door as a whole, dont worry sir that is normal, or try to clean the tip of the gasket to reduce the slipping sound.

the moter might have blown out