20 Most Recent Whirlpool RF364 Electric Kitchen Range - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Pull the hinges out and there should be a hole in it to where you can slide a nail or a screw through to hold the hinge open so you can put it back on
Information is here: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%203196274.pdf

Whirlpool has all the manuals on its site.

hello kenandsherm
Try this link.. you may have to create a login name and request the manual but it is there...
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%203187699.pdf

Good Luck
Regards,
Rick

When using Broil, it is normal for only the top element to work and it depends on the oven whether both should be on or not for baking but typically, baking does not use the upper element otherwise it could burn baked goods.
If setting the temperature higher than 350 does not cause the lower element to turn on, then it's likely that the thermostat has failed and can no longer respond to the temperature set.
The fact that both elements work under some conditions means that both of the heater elements are working at least some of the time. Because of the primitive nature of the elements, it isn't possible for them to just become 'weak' but they can interrupt themselves if there is a break in the resistance element but you could only separate the two possibilities by measuring the hot coil and that would be difficult unless you can pull the range out and access the AC feed lines that go to the element. Obviously, the power would have to be disconnected and the measurement done quickly so the element didn't have time to cool and regain continuity.

I would recommend you check BOTH elements for proper resistance prior to replacing them. If both of them are not working, the problem may actually be with the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. This is your clock assembly. On electric ranges, the EOC controls all the oven features. Check the resistance of the heating elements by performing the following:

- Perform a resistance check from terminal end to terminal end (where the wires connect to). You should get a high resistance reading in the Kohms range (this varies between models). If the reading is infinite, you have an open heating element. (Must be replaced).

- Second, perform a resistance reading from one terminal end to the outer shell of the heating element. You should get an infinite reading. If this reading is a low resistance or short, the element is shorted. (Must be relplaced).

NOTE: Take these readings with the wires disconnected.

You may be right, but please take the time to check both elements and let me know what you find. You may have started off with a bad element, but it could have damaged the EOC as well. I have seen this happen before. The result is an oven that still doesn't work after the homeowner replaces the defective element.

The following link explains how to replace a heating element:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r469407-replacing_bake_or_broil_element_in

I hope this information is helpful to you.

my bottom element in my Whirpool range needs to be replaced. It is hidden. How do you replace it?

cant nfind euf5 code can find eo f5 its a door loc code saing the door and latch switches do not agree try pushing stop/cancel and try again also does the oven light go off and on when you open and close the door

If you have already replaced the bake element (which would have been MY first logical choice) and it still does not work, the problem is more likely with the Electronic Clock Control. The control has two separate circuits that will select and turn on either the bake of the broil elements. It is usually a defective relay that causes the particular mode of choice to stop working. The part number for the ECC is 1166040 and costs about $128. It's not a cheap fix, but it would cost you much more if you had a service man fix it for you. Unless...of course, you still have a warranty. Most manufacturers cover all parts from defects for the 1st year. Some parts are covered longer than the initial warranty, however. It may be worth you while to double check your purchase date and appliance paperwork. This repair is not difficult and can be accomplished by the average do-it-yourselfer. If you decide you want to repair the appliance on your own, let me know and I can give you step-by-step instructions on how to do it.

PS Double check the wiring from the ECC to the bake element as well. You could have a broken wire causing the same symptoms too. Also, don't be alarmed by the failure of the ECC. Although they are generally reliable for quite a number of years, they have been known to fail during electrical storms and/or power surges. Something else you may consider: check your home owner's insurance policy to see if it covers the loss of appliances in the event of such incidents. I hope you find this information helpful.

It sound like a malfunction door switch that should be replaced. Good luck!

If you disconnect it from the mains supply and this may help; https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Whirlpool+Acubake+glass+top+stove%2Foven#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:a30276c9,vid:gFNJHpEvCc0,st:0

The link below goes to the Whirlpool site that gives instructions on how to reset your oven. Hope this helps. https://www.whirlpool.com/product-help/error-code-on-the-range-or-built-in-oven-display/PH3756/

Yes they could. You need an exterminator to get rid of them. They are filthy creatures and you should not be cooking in there.

Try this manual. It may help. Service Manual - W11174422 - Whirlpool Smart Wall Ovens

Check the power input wiring to be sure it's good (no loose or burned connections or corrosion). However, this is most likely a controller board failure. It may be a bad electrolytic capacitor on the controller board, but I've seen a couple with intermittent faults like this that are impractical to diagnose without internal service documentation. That isn't given to field service techs; they're just told to change the controller module.

Disconnect the mains power for 15 minutes to try and reset the control boards. It may be that the bake switch is faulty. Call for service.

E6 46 is a diagnostic code for a Whirlpool gas range. This code indicates that there is a problem with the oven temperature sensor. The sensor measures the temperature inside the oven and sends this information to the control board. If the control board detects a problem with the sensor, it will display the E6 46 error code. To troubleshoot the problem, you'll want to do the following:

1. Check the wiring: Make sure that all of the wires connected to the oven temperature sensor are secure and not damaged.
2. Check the sensor: The oven temperature sensor is located in the back of the oven, near the top. Make sure that the sensor is properly seated in its socket and that it is not damaged.
3. Check the control board: If the wiring and sensor appear to be in good condition, the control board may be the cause of the problem. You'll want to check the control board for any visible damage or loose connections.

If you are unable to find the problem, I recommend having a qualified repair technician diagnose and fix the issue for you. Electrical issues can be complex and it's important to address them promptly to prevent further damage.

The F9 error code on a Whirlpool stove typically indicates a problem with the oven temperature sensor. The oven temperature sensor is a device that measures the temperature inside the oven and sends this information to the control board. If the sensor is not functioning properly, it can cause the control board to display the F9 error code.

To troubleshoot the problem, you can try the following steps:

Check the oven temperature sensor: Make sure the sensor is securely connected to the control board and not damaged. You can also check the resistance of the sensor using a multimeter to see if it is within the specified range.

Check the wiring: Make sure all the wiring for the oven temperature sensor is securely connected and not damaged. Check for any frayed or damaged wires, and repair or replace them as needed.

Check the control board: If the oven temperature sensor and wiring are in good condition, the problem may be with the control board. You can try resetting the control board by unplugging the stove and waiting a few minutes before plugging it back in.

If these steps do not resolve the issue, you may need to take the stove to a professional appliance repair shop for further evaluation and repair. They will be able to diagnose the problem and recommend the necessary repairs.

The fuse is your breaker. There may be a fuse hiding under the control board display but unlikely. It is likely to be the control panel itself. I would suggest dealer service as they are expensive, need correct diagnosis and warranty on the part and the replacement labour.

All Gas Ovens can be fixed, but the should be serviced by a registered gas technician. The spark igniter is only one part of the lighting procedure, they also have a thermocouple, which is a safety device that open the main gas valve once certainly criteria are met usually a pilot light flame. The parts schematic shows the gas valve and it is $181. I don't see a safety thermocouple. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/2v56d5n3jv-001198/whirlpool-sf362lxss0-gas-range-parts This is the part that is likely to have failed, but I am reluctant to suggest you change it on my say so. Pay the extra $75 for a qualified technician to diagnose and replace. It has electrical contacts, so the fail safe is probably inside and is dependent on the spark igniter being fully functional. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/5w6dsrlw7b-0022-664/id-9761959 ..