20 Most Recent Whirlpool GH7145XF Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Most likely you're going to have to dismount the microwave and remove the outside cover to get to the bulb. This is a fair amount of work but is not rocket science. I'm not famliar with your particular microwave, but it's probably that way. If it's any comfort to you, light bulbs are usually not covered by warranties or service contracts.

It won't hurt to run the microwave without a bulb.

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a very helpful "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel. It's very helpful when troubleshooting.

If you need further assistance, please feel free to contact me directly through the links at our site: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This is almost certainly a bad upper door switch or a broken switch mount. You can find exploded views for this model at http://tinyurl.com/gv383 The involved parts are on exploded view 5 with reference numbers 10, 11, 12 & 13. We have important safety info, disassembly info, and door switch diagnosis and replacement info at our site which is available via our FixYa listing: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

possible and common reasons/parts are:Diode most units use, typical one.AC filter cap, style will vary but fairly round and of good size, usually buldged if bad but can be tested.Below is Magnetron which usually connects to the inverter board that switches it on etc.

get a tube of RTV compound at Home Depot, Lowes, etc for a caulking gun. Much neater to use as the pros use it also

You should be sure that you leave the breaker off for about 15-30 seconds when doing a reset.If it still won't work right, you either have a defective board or a shorting keypad.Try the rest several times and note whether the display comes up that same way every time or what.We can help you with a repair either way.Details of our service are at our Web site, along with a video showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.Feel free to contact me directly with your brand, full model number and symptoms. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Sounds like you need to replace the heating element.

Usually that's a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but it may also be a defective magnetron.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

i'd buy a new one brobro

The date on these is on the sticker. open door and look at the bottom left.. most were made in 2002