If your microwave oven doesn't appear to shut off when the door is open, you may have a problem with the door switch. The door switches, often referred to as interlock switches, provide power to the various components of the microwave. They are designed to interrupt the power when the door is open.
https://www.fix.com/repair/appliance/microwave/doesnt-shut-off/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2zIRmaaH0A
I say this a lot on here, but may be bad fuse due to bad connections. The fuse holders these companys use are so cheap they get hot if the unit is run for a long time and the fuse Melts at the end, and goes bad. Possibly something shorted out and blew the fuse, But, it had gotten to the point where it said end so it had completed the cook cycle. So, either over heated fuse, or bad door switch that caused it to blow the fuse.. If another switch goes bad or doesnt act like it should, another one is designed to blow the fuse when the foor is opened as a protection feature.
This is a problem with the control panel assembly, which we repair nationwide for $32.50 postpaid.
Sometimes the bulbs short when they fail, and that damages the control board. This also can happen when bulbs are removed or installed without first unlugging the oven or turning off the breaker.
For critical safety & disassembly info and other details of our service, see http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
This
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix. Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and
safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the
switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
One test that sometimes
helps is to
gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to
start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount
or
door alignment issue.
You can find helpful
exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model
number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very
helpful when troubleshooting, & testing.
Or you can view and download it here. At
our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you've recently had trouble with your cooktop lights, one may have shorted, causing a problem on your control circuit board, which we regularly repair for $39.95 in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
Hello there,When your microwave oven starts to zap, then eventually does not heat up, it means there is a problem inside the unit of the microwave. There are some parts to check inside the microwave before you can tell the exact component that is faulty and to know if replacement will do the job for you.The three (3) main parts to be tested are the power diode, the high voltage capacitor and the magnetron.But since all other components are working like the fan, light and clock, then it is most likely the magnetron. Here is how to test and replace the magnetron of your microwave.HOW TO TEST THE MAGNETRONBefore you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit. Magnetron replacementHave a certified and experienced appliance repair technician examine and replace your magnetron. This task is much too dangerous for the average layman to perform on his own. Hope this helped.Elect_Comp
Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Make sure no wires were pinched in the process. The turntable motor runs off the board that's why im thinking you have a grounded wire somewhere.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..
No heat means that the magnetron circuit has failed. It is the part the generates the microwaves that heat the food. Magnetrons replacement cost are high, usually as much as a new oven so it is rarely cost effective to repair. Sorry.
Measure out 1/2 litre of water and place it in a pyrex or plastic container. Take a temperature measurement. Say 15degrees Celcius. Place microwave on full power for 1minute. The temperature rise of the water should be at least 10 degree Celcius. Say 25degrees Celcius. If it is, the magnetron is producing aproximately 720Watts of power and acceptable, any higher and a bonus!
Start with the installation instructions that came with the oven.
If for some reason you don't still have yours:
You
can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for
several brands (including Amana, Frigidaire, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid,
Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.
You can download GE
owner's manuals and installation instructions here.
You should be able to download your LG / Goldstar manual here. If not, you can contact them via that page to order one.
We're happy
to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating
of our answer.
Disassembling the door is a major pain and the streaks will likely only be faded not removed completely. Best solution is replace the door. Otherwise taking it apart(and not damaging it) is your only option. Eric
With this model you should unplug it first. More than likely it is a burnt track/trace on the controller board between the relay and the header going to the light. Easy to fix if you have a soldering iron, short piece of solid wire etc. Accessible from the front, just take off the top grille and then the one screw for the control panel.
