20 Most Recent Whirlpool GS5SHAXN Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi agcruiser;
Have your change your water filter lately?
If not try that, as it may be starting to block up a little.
Another problem could be the water inlet valve(Ice Side) situated at bottom of fridge, that could be starting to wear (Can interchange with water side inlet valve). Yes there are 2- 1 for ice and 1 for water
The Whirlpools Ice Michine set up is very easy, and runs by a mechanical system, they can be tested (Use a qualified tech).
Cheers hope this helps

I have a Whirlpool Gold fridge model # GS5SHAXN LOO. The problem is this...often I'll hear a noise from fridge and when I investigate, it is always that a piece of ice has gotten stuck in the tray part of freezer and not falling into dispenser. Also, because of this it seems (not positive) that it won't begin the process of making any more ice. Annoying that we can't always have ice when we need it. Any solution to this would be great.
Thanks in advance!

Remove the food and the ice maker from the freezer ( if equiped ) . Remove the rear freezer panel . Using a hair dryer , start in the middle , below the coils , defrosting , until you see the drain hole . Use hot water to help defrost the hole . Once water starts going thru the hole , use a small hose inserted into the hole , and blow thru , to remove any unseen debris in the drain line . Use an ALUMINUM or Copper solid wire , ( a ground wire or fence post tie ) 14-16 guage , with the insulation completely off , and insert one end into the drain hole as far as possible without any force . Wrap the other end about 1 1/2 to 2 turns , around the black rod (defrost heater) , above the hole . When refrig goes into defrost , the heat will transfer from the heater , to the wire , keeping the hole from freezing up again .

Remove the dispenser cover by gently prying starting at the bottom going round and round a little at a time to prevent from breaking it. When it's off the screws will be exposed to access the other components.

Hi copy;
You may like to try the Water Valve (Solenoid) sounds like it may had stuck once now has become free and stayed open allowing too continually flow. It is behind fridge where the mains water is connected into fridge... Cheers

Hi Slick;
You have to take off the front dispensor mechanism and clean.. Be Very Very carefull as these are common for breaking.. It is hard to explain how to repair without having it in front of me.. hope you understand..Cheers

chute is probably clogged with ice. Remove ice storage container, look into chute (from inside) and see if you can see a build up of ice. If so be careful chiping it out. You may want to stuff a moist hot hand towell down in there first to soften the ice bond with the plastic, then while holding a bowl under the delivery area, try to carefull chip it out.

sounds like u have a short in the electrical somewhere u may need to call a professional as bad as i hate to say it

Hi there,

Well first of all you can check the evaporator coils - Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. 
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting.
After then you can check the condenser - self defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. Please post comments if further you have the same problem........

Good Luck!!

Thanks

I got a technician in, So my problem is now solved. Thanks for your support.

you need to replace the motherboard located in the lower rear area of the unit,especially if you just lately had a refrigerator light bulb burn out,as this creates a surge and ruins the boards electronic trace,the above symptoms you described point to this it is very common,also if you hear a rapid clicking of a relay and the lights are strobing or dimly flashing this is another sign of the board being defective

might be the compressor,compressor relay or overload or the sealed system may have a leak. call an appliance repair company. not recommended to repair yourself

I am having the same problem. Hopefully someone will be able to help both of us.

IF NOTHING IS OBSTRUCTING IT FROM INSIDE AND THE CRISPERS ARE IN THE RIGHT SPOT, THERE IS A SPACER ON THE BOTTOM HINGE THAT MAY HAVE SPLIT.YOU SHOULD SEE THIS BETWEEN THE DOOR AND HINGE If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

it is a relay chattering/buzzing on the control board located inside the lower left wall of the unit,it is inside a white plastic box,you need to unplug unit,then remove 2 screws holding the box,remove cover from box unplug the 3 wire harnesses and replace the board and reverse the disassembly procedure to put back together

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place. Concerning you under performing ice maker unit: A no eject situation can be caused by a failed ejector motor or gear. First you must make sure of the design. Most ice maker control sectors are the module type and some are the traditional type. the traditional type is refereed to as a component ice maker. These are easier to work on. They have the gear components exposed, just behind the face plate or front cover. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. The ejector motor, and mold heater are the only components that can be tested on a module style ice maker. Concerning the traditional component type, there are two exposed gears which mesh together. If either of the gears are worn, then they may fail to turn the ejector cam which ultimately pushes the ice out from the ice mold. Inspect those gears for cracks, worn or missing teeth. If the tops of the teeth are rounded or you observe "shavings', the gears may need to be replaced. If the gears assembly is ok, and not stripped, move on to the motor test. The motor is fastened to the cover plate and connected by two or three wires. The wires may go directly into the motor or they may be attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Before disconnecting any wires, label their placement. One of the motor wires connects to a wire cap. If this wire is connected to the motor with a slip-on connector, disconnect it there, otherwise unscrew the wire cap and untwist the wires. Inspect the connector and the terminal for corrosion. If the connector is corroded it must be replaced. Testing procedure for a two wire motor: Test the motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch each probe to one of the wires or terminals. The reading should show continuity in the range of 600 ohms for a functional motor. A reading of infinity or zero indicates a faulty motor and it should be replaced. Testing procedure for a three wire motor: Test the motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Touch one probe to the wire from the wire cap. Touch the other probe to each of the two other wires in turn. The reading should be between infinity and zero for each wire. If the motor test results in a zero or infinity reading on either wire, the motor should be replaced. If you have determined that your unit is a modular type. You only have two test points. This type is not repairable. If any probe test reviles any abnormality, the entire modular ice maker unit will need to be replaced. Modular Testing Procedure: Testing should be done with the power off, the shutoff arm in the down, "on" position and the ejector blades in the "start" position. The position of the blades will vary among ice makers, but the start position is always with the blades over the ice mold tray. If the ejector blades are in the mold, it will not be possible to properly test the control module. Now, if the blades are in the mold area, then they did not complete their cycle, and may suggest a failure of the modular unit. Make sure that the refrigerator is unplugged when preforming these test. Test the control module motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "M" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multimeter should show continuity, with resistance possibly as high as 10,000 ohms. You will need to remove the front cover to expose the test holes. If the motor does not pass this test, you will need to replace the control module. Additionally, I suggest to test the final section on the modular unit. This will be the mold heater. A failed mold heater will cause a no eject issue, as well. Test the control module heater for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multimeter should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If the mold heater dose not pass this test, replace the module.

changing the water filter is a easy job on most ref . how ever there different models / so i will look yours up / i wil get back with you in just a min . _______ I back the part # 4396508 is located down by your toes. in the grill . .remove the grill and 1/2 turn and pull out . change the filter . you don't have to remove grill but those thad do will be able to clean the coil. ( very important . good luck hope this helped **** ..

Had the same problem. Someone on this board told me about this circuit board. I found one online for $73 and replaced it myself.

Part Number: AP4334000
Made by WHIRLPOOL

Check out this website:http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5136804&diagram_id=935861#d935861

check tep freezer should be at least 10 F then advance icemaker into harvast

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Check the water inlet valve. It might be filled with ice. In this case thaw the water tube with a hair dryer to remove the blockage. Also check the water inlet valve's screen is not blocked. Clean the debris from it if there are some. If still the issue persists, then the water inlet valve might have gone bad which can be confirmed by testing it. This issue might be due to a defective defrost thermostat. Test your defrost thermostat to determine whether it has gone bad and replace it, if required.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

Thanks

Rylee