20 Most Recent Speed Queen AWS75NW Top Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.

Tips for leak: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1461/do-you-have-a-leaky-washing-machine.html

Check for tips on the link below to identify parts and removal: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
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If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Hi.

Start checking the drain hose at the back, and the hose attached to the drain pump, located at the bottom of the appliance. After that access the control panel and clean the hose attached to the pressure switch. Also check the lid is closing well. Those are the only easy fixes.

The first parts to check are door latch and drain system.

The timer performs an additional check on the door latch before advancing to spin. The door switch it is tested by jumping its contacts, or by reading impedance to check if the switch is opening and closing the circuit (you will need a multimeter).

About the drain system, if the machine does not drain, then the cycle will not advance to spin.

The electronic control checks the input from pressure switch (which detects water level) before advancing to spin part of the cycle. If there is a drain problem, then the machine will not spin.


The first step will be accessing the drain pump.


Kenmore top loaders' washer pump is accessed from the bottom side of the appliance. Get ready to collect the water that will come from inside the tub.

Check also the drain hose at the back. Ensure that the height of the hose elbow is respecting the specifications indicated in manual. A wrongly placed hose will result in water going in the washer drain pump and tub, causing drain problems and no spin.

If lid switch and drain lines are OK, replace the pressure switch, which is difficult to test (it is tested reading impedance with tub full and empty. Before replacing the switch, you can try cleaning it and blowing into the switch pipe. Check also motor before replacing the switch. The switch is connected to a long rubber hose and it is located in the control panel.

Below an article about the no spin problem. If the problem is coming with no drain, check drain filter, drain hose at the back. If they are OK, the pressure switch may need to be replaced or the pump may be defective.

Here the general troubleshooting for no spin: If you have no spin there may be different reasons behind the problem.

Enter full model number here (the one written on tag) to get all parts and diagrams for your washer.

Regards.

Ginko.

Sounds as if the belt may have a flat spot in it. They run about 24 dollars online. Take
a look at it by unplugging it and having someone hold the machine back at an angle.
There should be an obvious area of excessive wear somewhere on the belt.
Also check the idler pulley (wheel) for excessive play or binding. Hope this helps.

Check to see if the oil is coming from under the agitator. If it is replace the transmission. If it is not check to see if there is a grease spot inside the was tub.

no problem can you using cold water only

Hi, check the following to address this issue.

1. Clogged drain line or water pump
Check to see if there's something stuck inside the pump or the drain hose connected to the pump (pump is usually located at the bottom and towards the back of the washing machine).

2. Water Pump
If the drain line isn't clogged, you may have a problem with the water pump such as a frozen pulley or a broken impeller. If that's the case replace the water pump. Note: if you have a belt driven washer, check the belt(s) for cracks, as this would be a perfect time to replace the belt(s) if needed.

**The most common issue will be an obstructed hose or, line

Take care

You have to remove the entire motor/pump assembly. Two screws in the front, and two on the rear of the metal mount bracket. There are 3 screws holding the pump on you can get to once it is removed.

Fluid Drive clutch greasy or worn,
Pump blocked or drive belt too loose

did you look at the front panel if you tip the machine to the back and look at the bottom of the panel you will see 2 hex head screws remove them and lift the panel out and slide it down some machines others you have to remove the top

Lay the machine on its back to access the pump.

All top suspend tub washers drop down when they fill with water. And they rise again when they have pumped the water out. This is normal.
What is not normal is water not coming in.'

check following:
Water is turned on
Remove inlet hose and run water to see if it is blocked.
Clean the inlet filters.
If you hear a buzz but no water goes in the inlet valve needs replacing.
If yu use only cold water try swapping the cold hose onto the Hot inlet. Then select Warm Wash.
Then only turn on the Cold Tap.
This will allow you to fill the machine and do a wash.
Watch out though when it comes to the Rinse position......some machines only do a cold rinse, and because you have swapped the hose over to hot it will not fill to rinse the clothes. Until you can get a Tech to do the repair you can just use either a bucket to add cold water for the rinse or use the garden hose to fill the tub with cold water for the rinse.
Have yu got all that?

The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cuase this disruption is the Motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))

try this link might be helpful to you.

http://www.expertappliance.com/speedqueen-washer.html

First unplug the machine, now take off the front panel, two screws at the bottom of the front panel, front panel swings up and off.

check to make sure the six springs are still in place.

Under the tub is bearing housing between the tub and base usually white in color, under this is a plastic ring, does it seem to float easily when you move the tub. it could be broken. Also look around for loose or missing screws.

If all seems fine, make sure you have all four rubber feet on, level machine, in the front first side to side, then pull machine toward you to bring rear legs off floor, these are self leveling, have someone assist and make sure they are not stuck, use a pliers and break loose if they are. So with the machine on its front feet and the back feet off the ground set the machine down on all four feet check level front to back adjust as needed on the front legs. You should reset rear legs as you adjust the front. now with machine level tight the nut between the front legs and the base locking them.

This should help, if machine still shakes it could be the balance ring, has lost if solution its filled with a salt water solution, the hard part is you need to find it under the tub cover. we will go into the detail if we need to. ask more questions later

may be incorrect belt or gear box locking up.

it could be a timer fault,or a motor fault but i would go for a timer.unless you have any buttons pressed in you shouldnt.hope this helps.

We'll assume no problems with the belt installation - the tensioned idler pulley is pressing against the belt etc.
You didn't say whether it drained out OK or specify what model but it sounds like the brake is stuck or there's something caught in the basket. Try turning the main drive pulley (the one in the middle) Even with it full of water it should turn freely. Take the tub top off and check for foriegn obects stuck between the basket and outer tub. A wire coat hanger works well fro this.