20 Most Recent Speed Queen CTS90AWN Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

I need more info name brand model digital or conventional timer? It all matters

bearing kit try e spares.com

the door interlock has failed http://www.pwslaundry.com/files/manuals/alliance-manuals/802105.pdf they call it a Door Latch/Switch Assembly and i recon yours has failed or overheated {cooked thru use}

These machine like to be loaded to capacity. Under loading them is the major cause of shaking. Try loading the drum all the way lightly filled but not packed. Another thing to look for is that it was installed properly. It is very important with theses machine that they be leveled properly at install. If this was not done shaking can occur.

It sounds like you've already tried several troubleshooting steps, but let's see if we can narrow down the issue with your Wascomat W655 commercial washer. Here are some additional things to consider: Motor Capacitor: The motor capacitor plays a crucial role in starting the motor. If it's faulty, the motor might not engage properly. Consider checking or replacing the motor capacitor. Motor Wiring: Inspect the wiring connections to the motor. Loose or damaged wires can prevent the motor from functioning correctly. Ensure all connections are secure and free from damage. Motor Brushes: The motor brushes wear out over time. If they're worn down, the motor won't engage. Check the brushes and replace them if necessary. Belt Tension: If your washer has a belt-driven motor, ensure that the belt is properly tensioned. A loose or damaged belt can cause motor issues. Drain Pump: Although you mentioned that the drain pump seems to be working fine, it's still worth verifying. Sometimes a malfunctioning drain pump can affect other components. Mechanical Obstructions: Inspect the drum and surrounding components for any obstructions. Something lodged in the drum or motor assembly could prevent movement. High-Speed Spin: Since the issue occurs during the high-speed spin, focus on components related to this phase. It could be related to the motor, belt, or even the drum balance. A professional technician could perform more advanced diagnostics. If you haven't already, you might find it helpful to consult the diagrams and manuals specific to the Wascomat W655 washer. Alliance Laundry Systems provides replacement parts and repair resources. Diagrams, Parts and Manuals for Wascomat W655 Washer (alliancelaundry.com)

re-balance the load (wet close) and re-try. the wash also need to be on a level floor. day1 install per manual called installation.

Likely to be a failed water inlet valve. https://www.google.com/search?q=Ariston+ARF105+water+inlet+valve ..

CALL A LOCAL REPAIR SERVICE

I have never heard of a make called 'Escape'. Here are few anyway, they are all pretty standard. https://www.google.com/search?q=Escape+8+cycle+2+speed+washer%2C+replacement+drain+hose ..

No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller. Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, motor coupler, brake assembly, transmission, and mode shifter or actuator. one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING: This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid - grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage. LID SWITCH TEST- next step is to  HYPERLINK "http://fixitnow.com/wp/2003/08/31/mailbag-opening-a-whirlpool-or-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/" remove the cabinet and jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem is not in the gearcase- look for trouble in the "Motor Coupling for a Whirlpool direct drive washer" "_blank" the motor drive coupler or one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

CALL A LOCAL REPAIR SERVICE , WE DO NOT HAVE THAT MAKE IN THE US

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_gst8RokRo

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE: If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is thewater valvewill stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle. This is because when you selected your water temperature, youmay haveselected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing. Theitem to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going tourwater inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test. Another test u can do to check thewaterinletvalve,first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed. . If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. TIMER If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs,but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing. Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good!

growing sound is usually bearing, if its plastic outer drum housing it needs to be replaced as quick as possible as it will heat up the housing for the bearing and melt it out, then no new bearing will fit.

first off dont run dry to long can overheat or damage seals --bleed pump -- and test for leaks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jWnujtf138 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg7tw7f7lI0

or the water hasn't completely drained. See if this gives you the answer you're looking for - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By1E4j9S530

Check to make sure that your drain hose is not restricted.

When the spin doesn't start, I assume you can see no water in the machine but does the drain pump stop? If not, it is likely to be the water sensor failing. often this is a vacuum switch at the top of the internals with a rubber hose down to the pump. This hose can get blocked with solidified washing solution. Try cleaning this hose blockage.