Top 20 GE JKP30WMWW 27" Built-in Single Electric Wall Oven with Dual Element Bake & Electronic Oven Control... Questions & Answers

Just guessing but did you just use the clean cycle???? During clean, the oven temp gets high enough to trip the door lock safety thermostat. This is to keep owners from trying to open the door when oven is too hot from clean cycle. It sounds like that safety didn't reset to normal when it cooled off and therefore the door is still locked. With door locked you may need to get oven out of the wall and remove top cover to get to the lock system and thermostats. Make sure power is off before doing any of this.

180 degrees c is equal to 350 degrees f (356 to be precise)

Hi Nancy, 180 degrees Celcius is about 360 degrees Fahrenheit.

Hi,

Disconnect the power supply for few minutes, say 15 minutes and then turn it ON. If the problem still persists, then it is highly suggestive of faulty control board. You could try to clean the ribbons/connectors to the control board and see, if that helps.Unless the only solution seems to be replacement of control board.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

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Hi, Will forgo all the greetings. F7 is a stuck or shorted keypad. Try rapidly running / fanning your finger FLAT across the keypad to un-stick it. If this does not correct the problem you may be faced with either a keypad replacement or an electronic range control replacement.

Fault codes:
http://www.repairclinic.com/Fault-Codes#GE4

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Good Luck!
Kelly

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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^&uy

Hi,
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

Hi,
Try to cycle the power off and on to the oven...
Here is a tip that I wrote about this, it also gives some help on the locked door problem...

Check it out here...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

Heatman101

same problem. bubbled after 8 mths. replaced by GE. then bubbled again after 7 mths. GE refused to replace again, said warranty was only one year and did not include parts replaced under warranty. obviously a defective part. i'm not buying GE anymore. Good luck.

The igniter is in 'series' with the gas coil that operates the gas valve. The gas coil is probably bad. You can replace the coil not the whole valve. Go to repair clinic.com and put in the model number and they will have it. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

GE is now fixing this problem, no charge. I called about mine, at 866-622-6184 They have the white version already available. A month wait on the black. Then they send out a service tech to install, free to you.

my kenmore model number 911-47699100 oven doesn't work. Everything except the oven and broil works--cleaning, all timers, start button, etc. All that happens when you push start is about every 30 seconds, two relays can be heard making and breaking kind of like a click then immediately a clack. No error codes appear. Replaced sensor but that didn't work. Any help would be appreciated.

If it is a fan assisted oven , then it sounds like a noisy oven fan.
It could be a worn or dry bearing in the fan motor. if you open the oven door , you should be able to tell if it is the fan by listening to it carefully.
The other possibility is if it has a cooling fan in the back or on the top of the oven, it could also be that causing the prob, these are about the only things that could be making a noise, as there are no other moving parts that could make a noise.
PLz rate my solution.

Thanks.

Hi,

F7 error code occures due to
A = Function pad button stuck or 
B = Bad clock Unstick button or
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)

Replace the ERC there are ten screws 3 on each side and 4 on the control leave the hex screws alone all you need is a phillip screwdriver.
REMEMBER TO SHUT OFF THE POWER FIRST lift and fold out the control panel remove the ribbon cable and remove the four screws that hold the control board . replace control panel in reverse order.
Good Luck!!
Thanks

yes the oven thermal fuse blew when the fan went off its also called a tco switch if you pull out the oven and take the top off there will be a tech sheet there that will give the location of the tco some are on top some are on back this can also happen if the oven is too tight in the cabinet not enough room around it to let the heat dissipate its a round metal disc with two wires on it

im not sure what f1 is. have you tried turning off the oven at your switch board for about 5 minutes and turning it on again?
let me no how that goes and in the mean time i will try to find out what f1 is

Your problem is most likely caused by a short between sections of the ribbon cable between the touchpanel and the electronic control. The solution is to insert a slip of paper between the sections where it exits the touch panel. See the attached photo. If you have a metal touchpanel, insert slips of paper on either side of the ribbon cable as well. CAUTION: Be certain to turn off the power to the oven before you poke your fingers in and around the touchpanel. My solution has worked for hundreds of folks. Don't worry about the paper burning. If you have questions, contact me at [email protected].

Never ever use the Self Clean feature. All it exists to do is to keep the makers in a steady stream of sales of spares. The temperature is 800 to 925'F. The parts can't handle it. Try turning off at the breaker overnight to reset.

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You remove the door and then split the inner and outer parts of the door. clean the glass with Easy Off spray, rinse well, polish and put it back together. The videos should help as they all work to a theme.

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The fuse for a GE Profile electric range model JBP79A0B2AA is usually located behind the control panel, near the power cord. You may need to use a putty knife or thin flathead screwdriver to gently pry the control panel away from the wall before accessing the fuse.