20 Most Recent Samsung RB215LASH Questions & Answers

I have same problem, it usually happens after someone leaves door open too long or after 4-6 months. I usually place two frozen milk jugs full of water in the upper fridge and tape the upper fridge door closed at night before bed so the kids don't open and let the upper food get warm., Unplug the fridge and open the freezer and remove all drawers (place excess frozen food in freezer in garage) , leaving the freezer open with a towel in the bottom to catch the melting water from the back panels inside and the next morning wipe the fridge bottom clean and plug it back up and replace everything. I hate that I paid so much for this fridge and have to defrost a couple times a year. However found out too late to return back to the store. It seams like it should have a cycle that heats the back plate every so often to warm and evaporate the ice that collects, but I haven't heard or can't find anything on that.

Kimsukie.

Question edited for full 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved from Ovens to Samsung RB category. Check out the video. You just swap one side to the other. https://www.google.com/search?q=samsung+rb215acpn+reverse+door+open ..

You'll sadly find that there is either a leak or low pressure in the gas , or the pump is failing.

I would guess that the doors are not sealing properly. They have gaskets (seals) that can get brittle or damaged. If these leak air, you will build up water on the fridge side and ice on the freezer side. Or is someone not closing the doors well?

The self defrost mechanism is not working - check the defrost timer, defrost heater and defrost thermostat for proper operation.

Is water going to ice maker? Is itaking ice at all

Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.

check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.

There are two setting on a fridge. One that sets the temp of the freezer and one that adjusts the temp of the fridge part. The fridge setting just adjusts the opening between the freezer and the fridge. So the fridge gets it's cool by stealing a little from the freezer. i'd get a fridge thermometer and set it it the fridge and see what the temp really is. The knobs in the fridge may not be accurate. Set the fridge and then move the thermometer over to the freezer and set that. Move back and forth until you get what you want. Usually the lower part of the fridge is a little colder then the top. However if you use the fridge a lot then every time you open the door the cold falls out and the fan will come on and start taking cold from the freezer. Another very cold spot is next to the vent where the cold air comes out from the freezer. Usually up top near the ice maker.

Hello Sylvia; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service technician. You need to unplug the sensor. Place the bulb in a glass of ice water. After 10 minutes, Set you multi-meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol), touch the meter leads together you should get a reading of '1.0' or 'OL' the connector has two plugin ports, with one meter probe on the one port and the other probe in the other port, you should get a reading of 16 Ohms. You have three sensors, one for the freezer, one for the evaporator coil and one for the freezer: You have two defrost heaters they are part of the drain assemblies: Once again, set your meter on the lowest Ohms. Put one contact in one connector port and the other lead in the other connector port, If you get a reading of '0' or infinity the heater is bad. If it is good you should get some reading 25 to 150 Ohms. All of these components are behind the back fresh food section and freezer wall. I am sorry you bought a Samsung. 65% of all of my service calls were either Samsung or LG.

ahhh your drain holes are blocked up there is two pipes one comes from the V shape at the back of the fridge near the bottom there is a hole this pipe needs cleaned out and also in the freezer compartment there is one at the back is a panel usually has 4 or 6 screws or plastic clips take all the stuff out and put to another fridge remove the back panel {screw driver or the right tool like side cutters will remove the clips if it has clips most have a cap remove the cap then the screws and check the fan is working {by hand} rotates free make sure the V shape drain system is clean and clear once clean add some salt here and no ice if there is ice let it all thaw now put on the unit again with the panel off watch out it may have a sensor mounted too it so be carefull of any wires and see if the fan spins if it does nice one turn it off and put the freezer back panel one and secure it etc and your ready to give it a clean i use thin bleech and water 5% solution and then some plates of house salt to get rid of the bleechy smell from it so make sure the back is all clear of stuff and atleast 5" from the wall for good ventilation and turn it on set your temps and wait 20 mins then open the freezer you should have rolling vapors from it and your top fridge back wall should be chilled may take a bit longer but 20 mins is a good guide