Amana Comfort Zone 12M32PBEH Air Conditioner - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Usually when the furnace blower motor runs all the time
The limit switch or rollout switch is usually open or bad.
The furnace board is seeing that one of those switches is open, so it brings the blower on to try to get the heat out of the combustion chamber area, so the switch will close. But if the switch is bad and won’t close, the furnace board will keep the blower running continuously.

4 ton

just a thought. Above most burners in furnaces there is a heat exchanger. If the are filters are not changed often enough and if everything does not fit exactly right then the fins on the heat exchanger will get clogged with lint and such. The exchanger looks like a car radiator. If the flow of heat can not easily move up through this exchanger then each time the furnace turns on the flames may burst out the front. I'd take apart your furnace. The exchanger is only a few feet above the flames. Take of the door and see what it looks like. You may be able to clean all the fins off and find that the furnace still works ok. But make sure you get them very clean and make sure you don't damage the fins. Then make sure you can have an extinguisher handy and test the unit. Just be very careful about assuming it is ok. Turn it up and down many time so that you see it turn on and off many times. There are many sizes and many different types so if you need to replace it you must choose wisely. And yes you can just replace that component. One other thought, you may find that replacing the whole unit will only be 1/4 more and if so the improved efficiency of a newer unit will pay for the difference in just a couple of years.

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By "outdoor unit", do you mean the compressor? The unit you describe is a window-mount, single-piece a/c.

Failure of the compressor could be:

Disconnected/damaged power wires.
Damaged current protector.
Defective control board.
Seized compressor.

bad motor or capicitor

Sometimes they leak and need to be recharged. There are other things to check first. #1 being filters. Then make sure your coils are clean, inside coil and outside coil. If all is well then you will have to get someone to check the system pressures to determine if it needs to be charged.

Not an easy one to get to. From the gas valve, follow the small 1/8" diameter (usually copper) line toward the heat exchanger. It will lead to a pilot assembly just over one of the burners. Using a long match or shis-ka-bob stick, hold a flame just over the pilot assembly until you see the pilot light. Remember you will need to have the gas valve knob on the Pilot setting and depressed into the gas valve. Continue to hold down on the knob for 15-30 seconds. Then after the pilot remains on, rotate the gas knob to the On position. Hope this helps!

wash the outdoor coil it sounds like a code for high pressure also wash indoor coil these 2 corrections will cure most problems

is it a split system? majority of problems, lets say 95% occur during install, u may have a leak! A pinhole at that, but maybe installer missed it, your out of labor warranty, call a 3rd party contractor and have them inspect it!

you have a slow leak in your refrigerant and need to find the leak. you will have to get an AC repairman to come to your house and check it for leaks and fix the problem.

Is the blower running? Sounds like unit is tripping out on high limit safety switch.

Power coming from circut board? If yes, check the capacitor. Low voltage fuse good? Transformer good?

-AC = no power

Check freon, you will need guages on the condensor, also make sure the cond, outside unit is operating

it will work either way since it uses alternating current and not DC

Check air temp out vent should be approx 20 degrees colder than room temp if it is your unit is too small for the amount of space you are cooling.Rule of thumb 1 ton(12,000btu's) for every 400 sq ft of uninsulated space

If the tube you are referring to is the larger of the two, it may be that one of these conditions exist.
Inadequate airflow over the indoor coil due to:
Plugged air filter
Plugged indoor coil
Blower not running to speed
Blocked return air or blockage in the ducts
Blower wheel fouled with debris
In some cases damaged valves in the compressor will cause the tube to ice up.

Looking at the model number, it appears to be a 3 ton. (36,000 btu) Most all residential units are single phase and most all commercial are 3 phase. One way to tell, look to see if the compressor has a capacitor. 3 phase never use capacitors on the compressors as they are not needed. Some residential units have a "Dual" capacitor. That is, it has 3 terminals, 1 common, 1 for condenser fan motor, and 1 for the compressor. Also, this info should be printed on the unit's lable.
Good Luck and hope this helps.

is this unit real old ? it does not come up in my book . the btu is 30000 that is the same as 2.5 ton it may be 6,7 or 8 seer i dont think its a 10 seer because the 10 seer units are listed and yours is not . if this sounds wrong please look up the mod # again and post the ser # too ......... Please if this answer helped , please rate this 3 or 4 stars . and keep me in the paid answer department . A 1 or 2 may knock me down into the unpaid ranks. Thanks Cactus Bob .