20 Most Recent Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air Conditioner - Page 9 Questions & Answers

I have some older AMANA parts books but I'll need the MFG number to look up anything. If you can discribe what it does I may be able to recomend a generic replacement

I know some manufacturer's use the code FP for Freeze Protection.

the problem sounds like 1 or 2 things either you have a bad sequencer for the heat strip or the emergency heat portion was not wired up.

Okay, press and continue to hold the up and down arrow keys and quickly pess the OFF key twice within a two second time frame. the display will alternate between displaying the feature code and the option code.
In this mode, for the remote thermostat, press the HEAT key till you are on C1, using the up/down arrow keys, select rE.
For the fan prob., follow the same procedure until you are on C2, using the up/down arrow keys, select On.
And for the heater follow the same procedure until you are on CJ, using the up/down arrow keys, select 4.

Here they are;

Position A, Cool 70-78, Heat 65-73
Position B, Cool 68-81, Heat 68-76
Position C, Cool 66-83, Heat 61-78
Position D, Cool 63-88, Heat 58-83

Amana calls this a Temerature Limiter and says to only set one switch on at a time. If all switches are off then the unit is at full operating range.
Please rate this answer to let me know if it was the fix.

You need a new control board. The relays go out on these. If your unit is less than a year old then you should still be under warranty. Unless you did not send in the warranty card, then the company only warrants the unit for 1 year after the mfg. date. You will need to provide the serial and part number to find out from Amana. The new control boards are much better by the way, and worse come to worse, they are only $130. Please let me know if this has helped in any way.

You are going to have to send them back, the heater/compressor specs. are different on that model. You would be risking a fire.

The relays in these units blow, hence the popping noise you heard, disconnect power and remove the electronic control board. Flip it over and look under the relays, you will see burn marks under the one that blew. You can order a new board from Amana for around $130.

It sounds like your defrost board failed. You will need a tech to replace it. With that model it may have a parts warranty but you pay labor(?)

Since everything seems to work when the door is open is an indication that the inlet air filter if blocked. Remove filter and clean it with a vaccum cleaner. IF the filter is clean check that the air inlet itself is not blocked by a peice of furniture that has been repositioned etc

you have the white wire on the wrong terminal put it on the same terminal as the red wire on the capacitor and you should be fine,

check the back up heat coil or emergency heat available heat pumps have a defrost which need backup heat the three way valve outside will change position indoor coil will warm up to thaw ice

sounds like bad fan motor bearings

Have a look at www.toyodiy.com

Does it shut off real early in the cycle?

here's the link for your problem and I hope that it helpshttp://johnstonesupply9.com/TechDocs/Amana/Gas%20Furnaces/GCIC%20Gas%20Furnace/GUIC%20GCIC%20TECH%20INFO.pdf Thanks for unis FixYa!

Check your sequencers on your elements. If you don't have the equipment, then all you can do is check your filters and ensure they are clean. Also see if you can set the heat pump at a lower temp, you can do this at the defrost board, the therm or sensor. Get (the heat pump) to heat the house more than the electric before you have a tech come and diagnose your problem.

it has a bad thermostat----replace it

When it hums, is it running? Or does it not run when it hums? I'm assuming it runs when you say you have to turn the therm off to get the noise off.. If it's humming and not running, you have big problemo friend..