20 Most Recent Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15 Questions & Answers

Possible there is dirt in the drain which seems to clog on the drain pump /valve and so when the drain cycle is activated the pressure makes the noise on the pump.
Check for tips to remove the Pump;

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1373/how-to-replace-the-pump-on-a-washing-machine-.html

My majestic sounds exactly the same on the spin cycle and I wondered what the problem was. Is your unit still under warranty? If so, call the customer service line and get a repair started. I am a firm believer in warranty work on products I have purchased. WE pay hard earned cold cash on our consumer products and WE should be taken care of properly.

Good luck and please let us know what the solution was to your problem.

Lube the brass bearings on the motor. For some reason the bearing on the bottom nearest to the cooling fan will start to whine. I would guess because it's kicking dust up around the unit. I used a lube that will hold in place. Lube between the bracket that holds the motor together and by the fan. The noise should stop. I also suggest you lube the top bearing as well. The lube I recommend is a Silicone paste type.

it is unlikely its coming from the machine rather some you put in there,try a short hot wash with strong detergent,no clothes

replace pump windings are shorting out

most likely a faulty rotory position sensor which is attached to the motor

I have the manual here post your email and I will send it to you here are somethings to check in the mean time

12 OPERATING PROBLEMS
12.1 No Power
If the machine appears dead, and there is no response from pressing the power button, then check
the following.

Check the supply voltage and that the machine is plugged in and switched on.

Remove the lid and the console.

With the power supply isolated, physically check all the plug connections to the Motor Control
Module.

With the power supply switched, on check all voltage readings as described in section 6.

Prior to replacing a Motor Control Module, check all resistances of the components as
described in section 7. We also recommended that a visual inspection of the motor and pump
area be carried out. Check for corrosion and signs of water leaking as well as damage that
may have occurred to any of the wiring harnesses.

The clutch? Take out center of washer (only small bolt/screw ) , take out agitator, and lube up the hardware , check for broken parts, or overly worn out metal pieces. Run a normal cycle.
If still persists, take off front panel to washer for an engine inspection.

it can take a lot of flushing the machine to remove the buildup of suds producing wash powder. I'd double check the wash powder, and try and put the machine into "no eco" mode, so it won't recirculate the water, this may help was out the suds on an empty cycle.

Yes its a simple job much like a garden hose , I you live in Sydney keep your eye out for the council clean ups as they are usually interchangeable and get thrown out with the machines but washing machine stores can supply you with one .

could be a faulty off load switch running off balance machine not level depends how old the machine is then if none of those worn machine motor or internals might the the circuit board

For those with water on floor after wash, check my post on "eco smart won't drain, smells hot". It could be something clogging drainage area at very bottom of the tub. I couldn't see the sock that was stuck in my FP's drain when I looked from the top between the white outer tub and the wash tub--everything looked fine. Then I removed the black motor/white plastic housing piece--Tip back washer and you should see this black electric motor/white housing on bottom. see my post for how to remove and check for plugged drain. it's really pretty easy.

don't know about outer tub holes, but glad i don't have that problem.

i hate my fisher paykel washer/dryer. i can't wait to sell this house--i will leave them here and get a new front load Duette for my next house!

my gw712 washing machine will fiil up ok but then it wont spin properly it only spins a fraction then stops and starts beeping the second led from the left starts flashing. any help would be greatly appreciated.

This sounds like what the service manual calls "scrud": "If fabric softener is used regularly it will eventually cause a build up within the outer basket. This can result in black flakes present in the wash load that can stain garments. To remove scrud follow the procedure below. Step1: Add a full cup of a good quality dishwashing powder in to the machine. Step 2: Set the machine to a Heavy Duty cycle, select a Hot Wash temperature, High Water level and allow the machine to agitate for 10 minutes. Step 3: Leaving the lid closed, turn the machine off and allow to soak overnight. Step 4: The following day, turn the machine on and advance to the spin cycle to drain the water from the machine. After the water has drained, turn the machine off then back on again, and select a Heavy Duty cycle, Hot wash, High Water level, and allow the machine to complete a full cycle to ensure that all of the loose scrud and residual detergent has been flushed away. Note: If there is an extremely heavy build up the above procedure may have to be repeated." (emphasis theirs) (http://www.applianceaid.com/pdf/517792A-PH7-USA-Eco-Washer-Service.pdf) You said you cleaned the machine already, so maybe you did this step, but I thought it might help.

you need to vacume out all the water so you make it light, then dolly out the washer to some place you can drain it. now take off the front of the washer and locate your water pump, its attached to your drain line. take off drain line to water pump and see if anything is clogged in the pump. This is most likely what is wrong if it wont drain. hope this helps.

Hi   try this link
http://safemanuals.com/user-guide-instructions-owner-manual/FISHER%20%2526%20PAYKEL/GW712-_E

please rate my suggestion..

capasator?????

No spin, or lite spin try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNWasher fills with water and overflows: The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective. You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED). The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board.

To set the size switch, turn the power on at the power point and off at the console. Press and hold WASH TEMPERATURE UP then press POWER. EcoSmart
will give 4 short beeps and the pattern of LEDs will change. To lock the size into memory.  Press SPIN SPEED UP, the SPIN HOLD LED is on for 7.5 / 8.0kg (650mm wide).  Press POWER to confirm the setting and also exit this mode.

Sounds much like the rubber diaphragm in the water inlet valve is split, which means that as long as the water tap is on you will get that drip drip drip of water into the machine. You can still use the machine until you fix the problem, but the most obvious short term thing to do is to turn the water taps off when the machine is not in use. To determine which machine inlet valve is leaking, turn on both taps, then turn off, first the HOT water tap as this is more often than not the least used. If the leaking persists, then it is the Cold Water Inlet Valve you need to replace on your machine. While this repair can be done by a suitably skilled handyman, I always urge caution, because the average guy may just not have as well instilled "Safety Consciousness" as the professional technician who does this sort of thing all the time. Remember, you are dealing with 240v A.C. which can deliver a LETHAL shock.......so unplug the power cord when doing any work as the least of safety steps to take. It only takes one forgetful mistake which could result in injury or worse!