20 Most Recent Amana PTC153B35AJ Air Conditioner - Page 4 Questions & Answers

What is -the outside?
Heat pump, gas, electric heat combination?
You may need to back track, double check the Honeywell configuration jumper or software settings for your type of heating used.

Try empting the reservoir located on the bottom back of the machine.

There should be a fan symbol on your remote control. In the "mode" control, there should be the following options.. Heat, cool, Auto and fan. If you select fan, only the fan will run. No heating or cooling.

Check voltage in , there could be one side of breaker burned causing only one side to come through. This happens on older main breakers frequently which messes up whole house.

look on the manufacturing plate

install wrong --wrong contact --faulty contact

sounds like a stuck blower relay/sequencer

How are you determining that one section.is cold and one warm? If this is in fact the case you have a blockage in the coil or a compressor that is down provided this is a multi compressor unit.

I'm leaning 2 directions, one is that your tstat is sensing your heatpump can not keep up with the load. Therefore bringing on heat strips or two, you have a cycles per hour limit set for compressor heating and your machine is cycling too often.

F1 - Control Board Failure - Replace control board (ERC). F2 - Oven Temperature Too Hot - Replace oven temperature sensor. F3 / F4 - Shorted or Open OvenTemperature Sensor - Replace oven temperature sensor. F5 / F6 / F8 - Control Board Failure - Replace control board.

Clean the filter and try it again

I would guess two possible problems - dirty thermostat contacts and many appliances are also fitted with a thermal fuse or other type of thermal cutout which might have failed.

How much power is the question. Remember, heating coils usually require 240 volts. You likely are only getting 115 due to a faulty limit switch. 115 will carry through to the other side of the switch from the coil side leading you to believe the switch is good. Remove both sides of switch and test continuity.

Motor might be bad and shutting down on thermal protection. Is this a direct drive or belt driven ? .if belt driven try adjusting the belt tension or just replaced the motor

check out the pressure switch .

What turns on the fan, a relay of its own, a defrost board, the compressor contractor? Check for power before and after the contacts. Read the lone or schematic diagram included with the unit if possible.

It will be one of three issues. Blower motor is bad , capicator, or the control board. Easy enough to check . Use an extension cord , cut off the female end and strip it . You should have a black and white wire. Find the wires leading to the motor take the black and white off the control board conect black to black and white to white. Plug it in an outlet if the motor runs its the control board . If not its a bad motor or capicator. But caps rarely go bad in this use . So most likely motor . Not a hard job , but not eady if you dont have the right tools. Do not bang on the shaft with a hammer . You must use a special tool for pulling shafts.