20 Most Recent Whirlpool GHW9400SU Front Load Stacked Washer / Dryer Questions & Answers

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I had same error code F11 and DL.....I sprayed the door lock (inside) with WD40......so far works OK

I had the same F11/DL problem. I tighten the two screws on the door latch and it's working great. for now

Just some part numbers to help if you need to order parts. For the GHW9200LWO Washer (Sanitary Cycle Model)- the part number for the CCU (Microcomputer or main computer) is 8181924. The part number for the Motor Control Unit (MCU) is 8182706. I did a search for the part numbers and found the CCU for $79.90 shipping included - the same part from Whirlpool was $190 plus with shipping included. I put the CCU on and my washer works perfectly again. Hope this helps someone since I had such a hard time finding out the correct part numbers. Whirlpool first sent me the MCU even though I specifically told them it was not that part but the CCU.

DL is a door lock error. This is usually an indication of a bad door latch. F11 is a serial communications error from the Central Control Unit CCU (which is your main computer). If the door latch is defective it could be generating the communications error code as well. A defective CCU can also give the same symptoms, though. Before replacing any parts, however, double check all you connections to make sure you don't have any loose wires. The least expensive of the two possible solutions would be to replace the door latch (about $50). The CCU can run between $150 and $250. Hope this leads you in the right direction.

I wanna thank all of you for your input. I had the "DL F-11" code also. My washer would run 12 minutes and then stop with the annoying beep and error codes. After learning that the "DL" was the door lock, I decided to order the part online for 50 bucks. After I placed the order I decided to take this $50 thing apart and give it a look-see. (Boys like to tear things apart!)
There is a solenoid inside that actuates the lock. My finding was that there was some hardened goo that seeped out of the solenoid. It didn't look good! I believe this to have caused an electrical imbalance that the computer didn't like, thus sending it into error mode.
Removal and installation was a snap. First I took the top off. Then to make room for my arm to get to the door-lock, I pushed the drum all the way back and held it in place by wedging a shoe in the front end. Then I pushed the drum to the side, opposite the door-lock, and wedged it with another shoe. This gave me plenty of room to reach the door-lock. Unplug the three connectors and remove the three screws from the front side of the door-lock. (Inside door at 2:00.)
Reverse order for the install!
Thanks again for your posts which led me in the right direction!

Hi,

Often, certainly on front loaders in my experience, the pump is visible after the filter has been removed. It should be possible to check that it is free to turn by hand/finger BUT REMOVE POWER FIRST!
It is possible to visually check whether the pump is working, with power on of course and the filter still removed, by selecting a spin cycle at which point the drain motor pump should start to operate.

Good luck,

John C
retired Englishman in SW France, 12:31 Friday afternoon- whoops, time for my lunch!

It usually means the filter is clogged. Try this link F21 Fault Code Repair

When the machine is off, there are only two ways water could possibly enter. 1 Check the drain hose install, that it is not installed deep in the standpipe, if the hose is shoved too deep, it can sometimes siphon (rare with front loaders) water back into the machine.
2. Most likely cause, a slow leak from the water valve. Sometimes the water solenoid will not close completely, and you will get a very, very slow leak into the machine.
If not the drain hose, try shutting off the water supply valves when done using the machine, if that takes care of it, you may want to replace the machine's inlet valve.

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. Error "dlf" or FDL means a door latch failure. This means that you'll need to replace the door latch assembly however before doing that you can leave the washer unplugged for 30minutes so that it resets itself. In the meantime when it's unplugged just inspect the door latch wiring to ensure all the connector plugs are intact and not loose or broken. You can access the door latch wiring harness by removing the top panel of the washer. To remove the top panel just remove the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, and then lift off. Locate the door latch assembly behind the front panel on the right hand side. Trace all the connectors from the door latch to the Central Control Unit (CCU) and make sure they are properly seated at both ends. If after doing this still the issue is not resolved then unfortunately you have to get the door latch replaced. Please rate the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

This advise is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet front loader washers and dryers with a Control Lock problem.

This may or may not be an indication of a serious problem. In the majority of the cases, this is a simple operator error. Nearly all these model appliances have some sort of Control Lock feature on the front panel now. This is a designed safety feature that is used to prevent small children from manipulating the controls. The controls can be easily locked or unlocked by pressing and holding the following button on the front panel:

Whirlpool Duet Washer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds.

Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds.

Kenmore Elite Washer - Press and hold the DRAIN/SPIN button for 3 seconds.

Kenmore Elite Dryer - Press and hold the AUTO DRY LEVEL button for 3 seconds.

These instructions may not be all inclusive for all Kenmore and Whirlpool models, but they are the most common. Chances are, if you have a Control Lock feature, the instructions will be printed on the front panel adjacent to the button that is required to lock or unlock the controls.

NOTE: These instructions may also work for newer model Maytag, Hotpoint, Admiral and Frigidaire model front loaders as well. Refer to your owner's manual or front panel for instructions pertaining to your specific model.

If the Control Lock feature will not lock or unlock the appliance, unplugging the unit for AT LEAST 30 minutes is recommended in order to reset the main control board. In many cases this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches.

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The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.


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It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




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1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.


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This is an indication of a door latch failure and/or interconnecting wiring problem. The first step in troubleshooting the problem is to unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of your washing machine. Sometimes these error codes are erroneous and can be easily cleared by resetting the CCU. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem. In addition, if the door latch remains locked following this procedure, there is a manual release you can use to open the door. Follow these steps:

1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with a 2 x 4, it makes access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.

If you still have the error code displayed, inspect the door latch mechanism for any broken, loose, or missing components. Next, open the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws in the rear of the washer that hold the panel in place. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off. Locate the door latch on the right hand side behind the front panel. Inspect the wiring harness from the door latch to the to CCU. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the top rear of the washer. Make sure all the connectors are snug and not loose or broken. In the majority of cases, a persistent error is a failed door latch. If all these preliminary checks are unsuccessful, replace the door latch. Follow these steps:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.


NOTE: Another method is to access behind the front panel from the top with the top panel removed. Either method works, but I have found that going through the front offers better access.


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drain hose is probably too low

Hi,


Just tilt the washer back and prop it up with some wood blocks. Three screws are right on the front at the very bottom. Use a 9/32 socket to remove them. The front cover slides right off. The drain trapclean out is right in the middle. Turn the large white knob counter-clockwise to remove it and clean.


Thank you !!

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Error F21 means long drain, this error occurs when the drain time exceeds 8 minutes. To resolve this check the drain hose and make sure it is not kinked with any foreign particles; also clean the drain pump filter for any clogs. Also check if the pump is running fine. If still the issue is not resolved after all this then you might have to replace the pump. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Hi,

"dl" indicates a door lock error. A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be unlocked. It will try to lock it 6 times before displaying the error.
Check for the following when dl occurs:

• Door Lock Mechanism broken.

• Check Door Lock/Switch Assembly for foreign objects

• Check Wire Harness connections to the Door Lock/Switch Assembly and Central Control Unit (CCU)

• Door Lock/Switch Assembly Failure

Thank you !!

Have you tried unplugging the washer to re-set the controls? Also double check to be sure that there is no water left inside the machine (blocked pump).
Not to overlook the obvious, but you did hit the "power" button first right?
If there is no water left and the unplug trick does not work, you may have a defective control board.
Good luck!

If the door remains locked and will not open, there is a manual release you can use to open the door. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576511-door_jam_on_kenmore_elite_and_whirlpool_

Sometimes using the manual release will correct a momentary door jam problem and return the washer to normal operation.

If the door continues to lock and not open, you may also try unplugging the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes problems are experienced as a result of a momentary glitch in the operation program. Resetting the CCU can often correct most minor problems.

If you require further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.