20 Most Recent Amana AEW4530DDS Electric Single Oven - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Here you go...: Craig

http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0803446.pdf
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/gasoventroubleshootvideo.html this will walk you thru the correct procedure for performing this test. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Yes you are correct you will need to replace the bake element. Pretty easy job, couple of screws and element should pull straight out to allow you to remove push on wire connectors. JUST MAKE SURE you un-plug it first!!
Part number you will need is 77001094 and should not cost you more than $40.
Good luck!!

Sam, Lost my chat window once again, but yes those are the part numbers for your control board and your key-panel respectively use them to be sure you are getting the right part.

Hello,

yes, its possibly the hinges, it might be weak and that's why the door does not close tightly. Taking the door off is a good step to take. Follow the steps below in other to take the door off successfully:

1. Turn off any gas or power supplies to the oven, and make sure the oven is off.
2. Open the door to the broil position. This is usually the last position that the door will stay open by itself before it closes.
3. Grab the door by both sides and gently lift it up. You should feel the hinges start to come loose from the oven base.
4. If necessary, use a screwdriver to help pry the hinges out of their sockets.
5. Unscrew the hinges on self-cleaning models in order to remove the door.
6. Lift the oven door up and out of the oven.
7. The door should have been remove by now.

I wish you good luck.

my amana self cleaning oven was in storage for 2 yrs. Hooked it up and all burners work and broiler but oven won't kick on.

NO GREASE ONLY WIRES,METAL AND INSULATION. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

Hi.

If the temperature runaways 50 or 100 degrees over the set temperature, then you probably have a defective temperature sensor. Replace the temperature probe located inside the oven cavity, that should fix the problem. If it does not, then the electronic control is defective, but that is not commonly causing this conditions.


Regards.

Hi.


Check the pressure regulator, and ensure that burner is working regularly. If the problem is not related to burner and pressure, then replace the temperature probe, that can affect heating time.


Regards.

Hi. This sounds like a weak igniter, the symptoms usually are: burner won't light, or takes longer than normal to ignite the burner, may or may not smell gas in the oven, does not maintain set temperature or burner does not come on fully. On gas ovens, a glo igniter is like a light bulb, the more you cook, the faster it wears out. Bottom line, needs to be replaced. Good luck.

I would like to add that I have already installed a new glow plug in this unit.

Hi,
You have a problem with the ignitor of your oven. This tip will help you with that.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

Heatman101

This sounds like a weak igniter, it would have to be a gas oven and the symtoms usually are: takes longer than normal to ignite the burner, may or may not smell gas in the oven, does not maintain set temperature, eventually won't heat at all. On gas ovens, a glo igniter is like a light bulb, the more you cook, the faster it wears out. Bottom line, needs to be replaced. Good luck.

After self cleaning the range the door won't open....
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
*On -some- Frigidaire built ranges, the switch is located behind the right hand side panel and activated by the right hand door hinge. On this model, the side panel may need to be removed to access a malfunctioning door switch.


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Because the glowbar is glowing does not necessarily make it good.
Turn off the gas to the stove. Remove the oven racks. Remove the bottom oven pan. Remove the flame spreader. This gives you access to the glow bar and gas valve.
Put a clamp on amp meter around one wire of the glowbar. Turn the oven control on to BAKE.
If the glowbar reads 3 amps or less,replace the glowbar ignitor.
If the glowbar reads good,check the burner tube for a white ash buildup. It can be cleaned with a wire brush. Look closely near the glowbar section of the burner.
Check all the wire connections for the gas valve.
If the glowbar is good and the ash deposits are gone and the oven still will not ignite,the next step is to replace the gas safety valve.

Usually the coil is bad

HI, This is a oven temp sensor failure code. The actual sensor should be replaced asap. This will correct the issue.

F-2(Oven Temp Sensor failure)

F-9 is a failed door latch. You probably figured that out by now.
Need a model number to be more help.