Top 20 Technics SL-1200MK2 Turntable Questions & Answers

If you are getting a hum from the speakers when you touch the red wire that means the amplifier is working and is connected to the cartridge. I don't think it is a short unless you get a hum if you touch the white wire as well. I think it is a dead cartridge, or damaged stylus. If you touch the stylus does it make a sound, if not it confirms it is a bad cartridge, only solution is to replace the cartridge. Kiri

Checked the fuse in the mains plug? Ensure that no circuit breakers or thermal cut outs have "tripped". if this doesn't answer your issue please be more specific as to what happened before it went down and if any other equipment does or doesn't work.

They are asking this because anodising is especially suited to aluminium alloys, but not to steel. Anodising can be done in various colours and finishes. Steel can be chrome plated, shiny or dull, and also plated with other coloured finishes such as cadmium. The tone arm in this photo of the SL-1200Mk2 looks to be chromed, which means it is steel. To find out use a small magnet at the midway point to see if an attraction can be felt. http://www.mds975.co.uk/images/vinyl_heaven/sl-1210_04.jpg

I assume you're talking about a power transformer......If it the same, and I doubt it is, it would be to remove and replace like colored wires, and solder them on. If it's not exactly the same transformer, as they are long discontinued, you would need someone like me to to spec out both transformers and decide, first of all, is it a good sub, and two, how to wire different colored transformer secondary colored leads. If you require further assistance, or would like to inquire about a repair, please visit my website, audioserviceclinic.com. Thank you.

There would be no way to service your unit, if you live in remote area. There are too many ICs to just guess at one. Anything from a drive ic to a microprocessor(computer inside your technics). You need to be highly tehnical to repair this. Sorry.

You have not given much information, however if you're not sure how to go abvout changing a fuse I would suggesst you take it to a professional\electrician to do this for you. It would be irresponsible of anyone to advise you to do otherwise and potentionaly put your life and equipment in danger. Fuses blow for a reason, so an electrician\specialist will be able to test the item for you to ensure it is safe.

I have seen this problem many times. Option 1: If you are comfortable with soldering, try replacing the drive IC. This solves the problem 90% of the time. The part number is: AN6675 . This is a discontinued part so you may have to search around a bit, but you can usually find one of them on eBay for between $25 - $40. There are a few newer versions of the chip that are suggested as replacements, but most of them have been on back order for years and you could end up waiting forever. I'd stick with the OEM part number on eBay. Just be sure it is in stock before you buy. Option 2: If you are not comfortable with delicate soldering or want a fix that is easy and 100% sure to work, I suggest replacing the whole motor board. This may sound extreme but it's really not. These are discontinued as well, but are usually easy to find on eBay. I've purchased many of these for less than $115. That may seem expensive at first, but it is still way cheaper than the $300 - $400 price a repair shop will charge. Be sure to purchase from a reputable seller with good history and, be sure that it is in good working order. Some are not, so carefully check the description. Some may look a little different than yours due to minor changes over the years, but as long as it is listed as compatible with the MK2 series, it will work fine. This is the most fool proof option if you don't mind the price. Like I said before, it is super easy and always works. If anyone else is having trouble with a Technics SL1200/1210 MK2, this link is a must have: www.deckdoctor.com.au/TECHNIC%20SL1200%20PCB.pdf http://www.deckdoctor.com.au/TECHNIC%20SL1200%20PCB.pdf I used this page again and again to save time identifying problems. Extremely useful. Good luck. EW I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/erik_149c4c1c216e42f2

Pls explain me what a discover dj is from technics or do we talk about a software program , standing loose from technics?

Couple of options , but first cleanen the pithfader and variable resistor pitch vr3 i thought, it's an open one , he needs allways to be replaced, even technics says so and first clean the board, inside and on youtube and this side there enough movies and text how to do it, and check the pitchfader cables very good.

It's not really a digital signal, per say. Its an analog representation of a digital signal. This is good because it's easier troubleshoot. The first thing I would try is check the ground wires. #1cause of Serato Traktor problems. If that's not it, play an analog record to see how it sounds. If you have a missing channel, clean the cartridge with a pencil eraser and inspect the stylus and try again. Restart your mixer and computer (this cycles the ground) and you should be good to go. If not you may have bad cables that will have to be changed. See the thing about turntables is the audio signal never comes in contact with the turntables electronics. it goes from the needle through the arm and out the cables. The cartridge's signal is magnetic not line level so it needs good shielded cables. Perfect opportunity to upgrade the cheap cables from the manufacturer and you can internally ground the turntable at the same time Eliminate the annoying ground wire. It requires a bit of soldering, all amateur stuff. Youtube is filled with tutorials on changing cables and eliminating the ground wire. oh make sure you have a good shielded USB cable. If this doesn't work I can think of more. Give more secifics about your setup. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/erik_149c4c1c216e42f2

?? wtf is this for nonsence

Is everything cleaned, and the needle seems clean , but then it aint and clean the record real good, not with a simple brush. But the questions gives me questions , is it cutting with scratching? then i'd like to know your scratch unit, since some tt are too slow to scratch with. And you'll be surprised which they are..... 500dollar plus

can you be more specific? which light isnt on? the power light, the popup light, or the pitch fader light? and what do you mean by the channel? are you using mutiple technics? and are you using serato?

Ok it could be the following of which is a very detailed way to go about fixing it so here we go: 1. Make sure your deck is set to 33rpm & that the pitch fader is at the greenlight or dead center spot. Remove the platter & plastic under covering that bares 5 phillips head screws. 2. This is what it looks like without the platter & plastic cover. 3. Next flip your turntable over onto a big fluffy pillow to protect your tonearm mainly. 4. Remove the feet & all the screws from the bottom rubber cover. After that simply pull up the rubber cover easy & it may be a little tight in there so just do it nice & easy until it has been separated and completely removed out of the way. 5. Now on the underside of your pitch fader you'll see the board & locate the hole thats in that board & use a phillips screwdriver to turn it to the left all the way until it stops. 6. Now flip it over and turn it on, make sure its set to 33rpm & the pitch fader is st to "0" or where the greenlight turns on. 7. Then move the pitch fader in the "+" or positive direction or slide it towards you slowly a couple of increments say until you get to the "+2" the Big Red Dot moves & then comes to a stop again like it was before you moved the pitch fader when you stop on "+2". When that happens leave the pitch fader there turn off the deck, remove the platter and then unplug the pitch fader from its internal connection. 8. After its unplugged flipp it bck over again& now you need to bust out your Multimeter & set it to the 20k mark. 9. After that then take your 2 contact points and place them on these to solder joints on the pitch fader board to get your first reading. 10. Again dont go by what reading I have in the picture but instead whatever reading your mutlimeter gives you & write that number down & now you have to get the 2nd reading. 11. First you must reach underneath & now you can slide the pitch fader back into the "0" position or in the middle again & then repeat the same process you did when you got the first reading by placing your contacts again back on the two solder points and take a 2nd reading. 12. Now while you hold the black/red contacts on the solder points, you take your screwdriver & place it back into that hole from earlier & slowly turn it to the right until you see the reading on the multimeter screen matching whatever the number was that you got on your 1st reading. When they match stop & flip over your turntable & make sure you re-connect that plug for your pitch fader. 13. Now go ahead and put the rubber bottom cover back on with all those screws but leave the top internal plastic cover off still, of course you can put the platter back on but leave that plastic part underneath it off. TO BE CONTINUED...

Sorry to say but it sounds like one of two things. Either A. You somehow may have exposed some nearby wire that allowed for it to touch up against a metallic part of your mixer causing an electrical fire or almost fire. B. The particular capacitor that regulates the amount of voltage to course throughtout your turntable was drawing way more than specified due to the upgraded blue LED's that they themselves may be spec'd much to high for the Technics.

then it's time for a new one, but the platter touches the underground: be smRt and replance the centre shaft, since you have an 1210mk2 and they need replacement. it's 40 euro. and you'll notice the difference after many years using an old one

store

nice table, but i need to know more info: distortion with only the record playing or also a sound with the unit only on, which cables do you use and did you have cleaned the rca cable and the sme connector(those 4 pins where you screw your om or concorde in) with cotton on a stick and the right cleaning stuff and push them a couples of times , to see if they come back easily, other wise a drip of lubricator for elektronics on them . greetings richard

It may be a bit late to start talking, but you need to narrow down the problem. It could be all manor of things, but start by breaking the problem down. Try the turntable in another known working amplifier. Does it work ok? If so the problem is not the turntable, but another part of your setup. Try the following : First of all, try a clean source such as a cd player. Does that come out of both channels ok? If so, your amplification is ok. Is the the Turntable going into a mixer? Try another phono channel of the mixer. Tried all channeles and still got a problem? Try another mixer as the master output of the mixer could be faulty. Still a problem? Try your mixer in to another input of the same and of another amplifier? Is there still a problem? Well you have tested your main equipment, so now you can conectrate on the deck. Get another headshell with another known working cart and install them into this deck. Still a problem? Beyond this you need a little more expertise and I'm unaware of your technical abillities. As a matter of safety for yourself and your equipment, you should take it to a professional to have it repaired.

Sounds like to much anti-skating with an old stylus. That can pull a needle back over and over again around the center of the record. Try setting the anti-skating at 0% and see what happens. Also set your tonearm height to level with the platter. These may not completely fix the problem (may need new stylus tips) but shout make a huge improvement I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/erik_149c4c1c216e42f2