Dewalt DW744S 10" Portable Table Saw with Stand - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I bought this saw and had this issue at the start, but it sorted out itself. I don't know how, but it now fully locks down without any issue.

90) 153412-00 CRANK ASSY

Hi Welby: My saw is not a DeWalt, but the procedure should be similar. First, WORK SAFE! UNPLUG THE SAW. Now you can explore without the prospect of having it bite you. Here are the things I would do: 1) Set the On/Off switch to OFF 2) Have a look at the motor. There should be RED (typical) reset button. When you find it give it a good solid push. 3) Check to make sure the On/Off switch is still OFF. 4) Plug in the saw. 5) Try turning it on. If it does not work, I would unplug it and use a continuity meter to start checking the various components, especially the On/Off switch. If it has failed and you can't get a replacement you could do as I have with an old Craftsman. It is 110 or 220, and has only been used on 110. Half of the switch terminals had arced over 40 years of use, so I just re-wired the switch to use the other terminals but still be 110. .

Start with the brushes - they are either worn low or the brush tubes are causing them to stick so they don't contact the armature - this is why it starts when you 'rap' it. Running slow can be a bad armature or field from running hot because of the bad brush connection. 1) remove the brushes 2) remove the 4 bolts holding the motor to the saw 3) pull the armature out and inspect for signs of being burnt (especially look at the copper commutators where the brushes sit) 4) inspect the field for signs of being burnt

try it with no bladeif you have unhabitual noise and vibration,probably need to change bearingif you do not have a bearing puller do not try to do it yourselfprofessionals will take 2 to 3 times less time than you do the work and if there is something else damaged, (gear damaged,) he will see it and inform you

Researching Your Model. The Rollers are Chain Driven, but this Planer is a V-Belt Drive. Any slippage of Your Belt? Are the Chains Loose?? (there's a Drive Chain on one Side, and a Driven Chain on the Other Ends of the Feed Rollers) Never Hurts to apply a "Light" Coat of Chain Lube to these Parts(Gears & Chains)
DO NOT SAND THE ROLLERS!! Cleaning them with Denatured Alcohol is OK ( I prefer Brake Parts Spray Cleaner Myself)...the Planer Knife Head & the Front & Rear Rollers all work together as a Unit.
What Thickness are You Trying to Remove?? Usually I don't like removing More than 1/32" per pass...
Have you contacted DeWalt Service?

NO reset or circuit. You can try and unplug tool and blowing into all the exposed areas of the bottom of the saw. WEAR safety goggles. Then what I would do is check the brushes and if you have a volt ohms meter check the continuity to the brush tubes. Start at the cord looking for a break in wiring and go from there. Let me know if you need more help, but I am going to thing brushes or switch

http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P0201024-00003.pngThis is the newer 744 series, white cord to white motor and black cord wire to black motor. If your motor needs the mag starter that 5th loose wire, usually red, goes to the start terminal on the mag starter.

there are 2 bolts on the backside that you need to loosen and move the fence to the blade to align it properly, after aligning tighten the bolts and I always recheck to ensure that it didn't move, there are instructions in the owners manual and if you don't have one you can go to dewaltservicenet.com and download one for the tool. Let me know if you need more assistance

some like the sawdust building up and causing problem, electrical problems POSSIBLY, losing your footing, I am saying that I don't think this is a good time to be using electrical equipment for various reasons.

If you lost the instruction manual go to dewaltservicenet.com and you can download them, but in the meantime there is a lever that removes the guard lift up on it and then towards the back is a slot for the pawls, depress the button on them and insert into the slot making sure they lock replace the guard and make sure everything moving freely up and down movement of the saw and free movement of the other safety devices. Let me know if you need more assistance.

Hi Ken,Sounds like you need to to adjust your fence.I use the blade from a combination square.Place the steel blade next to the saw blade(between the carbide teeth).Next loosen the fence lock,loosen the two hex bolts on the rear pinion assembly so that the fence can move side to side.Move the fence up to the combo blade and adjust the fence and lock the fence lock.Check for blade and fence for true.Tighten the hex bolts at the rear pinion bearing assembly. Thank You for choosing FixYa.com.http://service.dewalt.co.uk/PDMSDocuments/EU/Docs//docpdf/dw744t2_xe.pdf

Sounds like you may have dirty bearings on the motor or the arbor shaft. When the bearings heat up it causes expansion thus slowing the saw. try to lube the bearings with some penetrating oil, Better yet, get some BelRay chain lube. It will penetrate like WD40 but will firm up like grease give you better lubrication for the bearings.

the brushes in a dw744 have a ledge when they get too short that hangs up. replace the brushes and you should have no problem. the brush holder comes right out with a little coaxing with a screwdriver after the end cap is removed. it just plugs right in.

if you are mechanically inclined, unplug tool and turn tool on its backside to expose the motor, remove the cover from the end and remove the brushes, then there are 4 screws that are aT25 torx head that holds the motor housing to the diaphragm, you might have to pry it some,I believe the commutator bearing is freezing up but would replace both of them

Sounds like a problem in the Mechanism assembly. You have the option to attempt to fix it yourself or contact DeWalt and take it to a Local Service Center, you can find your local service branch at www.dewaltservicenet.com. From this website you can also order parts. Here is an exploded view and parts list of your tool. http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentView.aspx?productid=70578&typeId=16779&documentId=36008
Hope this information is helpful to you, if so, please rate me. Thank you.

isnt there just 2 wires on the switch? both black?

There is no fuse, and I am no electician...however, I had the same issue and a friend and I took the on/off switch apart, and discovered that it is some sort of "dual" type and it was/is defective. He said it could be jerry-rigged and work as a single switch, but I never did get around to fix it. I was actually looking to source the defective part (if possible), when I found your question. Good luck to both of us.

Grant

Possible that the fence you are using is not on a true parallel line with the blade and as a result it is causing the wood to pull into the blade causing kickback. I would do an alignment procedure on the fence to make it as true to the blade as possible.

you need to check and see if it is the field or the armature that needs to be replaced. if you can use a volt ohm meter you can check these two items. you would use the ohm or continuity part of the meter. for the field, there is a wire coming fromthe elect source and the a spring around the brush holder. the are two of these field coils. if you take one leed to each end and the wire is ok the needle will move or you will see areading ont he digital readout. if you do not get a reading, there is a break in the wire and the field is bad. on the armature, using the same set up on the meter, hold one probe on the commutator. the commutator is at the end and is made up of copper rectangles. put one leed on one rectangle and then use the other leed to touch all the others one at a time. if you do not get a reading on one of the rectangles that means a wire is broke in the armature. if they both showgood, you have another problem. which would be your switch or cord.