20 Most Recent Electric Door Light Switch Questions & Answers

Check the small "button" that gets depressed when the door closes. Perhaps it's stuck IN, which is the OFF position. If it doesn't "pop out" when the door opens, then it won't turn on. Tug on it if it's stuck, you can use pliers and work it in and out a few times, then hit it with WD 40 or similar lube to help it free up.
There's only one wire to the back of this switch, so if you have to replace it, it's really easy, It unscrews from the door frame. Just a heads-up though, if that wire falls off, it can be a pain to fish back out of the body to reconnect!

The problem is that you need to understand that the red and black wires may not be power and return. The main red line is broken at a point and a new cable run to the light ( red + black) or (blue+ brown) this is merely the switch circuit fore that light. So if you mistake the two points it may be that what you have is red+red to your globe. ( Is that clear?) you would need to find the common black + the red to take power to the Red+black to your new ceiling rose, but breaking the now new red wire somewhere and joining in a new red_+ black that goes down to the switch


Use a power checking device as sometimes in some roses where multiple circuitsw feed fom Black and Black can be live
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used a multi tester to locate the right terminals

this cannot be easily answered, if the power supply is in the fixture simply run a new wire to the new switch. if the power is in the switch run a wire from the same switchbox to the new location and wirenut the wires on the switch to your new wire. remove the switch to the new location and ummy off your old switchbox.in either case the latter should be the easiest and safest way to go. always be sure to turn the power off at the panel box. and remember electrical work isnt like your typical trades bad things can happen when very quickly if you dont know what you are doing.

common megane fault im afraid the water gets down by rubber and lands directly onto motor. great french design. new one im afraid and try to place something over motor bit of plastic to let water drip away. parts handy got on line. look up megane window motor and see results on google. about 65 sterling. regards mike autosolutions.ie

You Need to Test with a electric tester and Identify a Hot and a nuetral in t the Box. If you find them that is what you need AT LT.If you are missing either you will have to add it. 3W switches can be installed numerous ways.If you have More info let me know.
Master Electrician

Put one wire from switch to black wiring coming in and the other to the black going to the ballast.
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Question edited for a lot more clarity. There is a video that might help, but there is no conversion kit. What some people do it remove the recoil start and use an impact driver or electric drill with a socket that fits the bolt on the end of the crankshaft. https://www.google.com/search?q=Steele+GG600N+generator+convert+to+electric+start

It requires a 2 pole ganged breaker to meet code and guarantee the breaker is on two legs of the single split phase service. That in itself doesn't explain the 120 volts at the heater element.

Replace the two single breakers with the appropriate 2 pole ganged breaker. Before connecting the feed to the heater, turn on the ganged breaker and measure voltage across the breaker. If not 240VAC then there is a problem at the breaker panel.

If there's 240 at the breaker then you've somehow wired the thermostat incorrectly but can't imagine what you did.

This is probably close enough. You planned maintenance will also need a full carburettor strip down and clean. count the turns on jetting screws. Screw IN and count the turns to a gentle stop say 2 1/4 turns, then remove and clean with carburettor spray. The float valve in the bottom is likely to be glued shut. https://www.baldor.com/Shared/manuals/2412-404.pdf https://www.google.com/search?q=%22Powerchief%22+6500+CL+manual ..

It may be possible but parts alone would make it cost prohibitive.

It would require a flywheel, alternator, rectifier, starter, battery, ignition switch, cables, and misc. plus labor.

There is a board that controls that where the outlets ect is located at

Normally there is a protection fuse between the low voltage charge winding and the regulator, that may be blown if the battery voltage does not hovver at about 13.8 volts when running otherwise the regulator itself may be faulty. A standard small battery charger runnibg off the power will keep you going until it is repaired.

cookers usually use a thermal fuse close to the heating element fuses range from 150c to 190c.once you find the fuse check it with an ohmeter it should have continuty. the thermal value should be printed on the fuse.

Likely a motor capacitor is failing causing excess current (heat) in the motor windings. Does the motor get hot?

OR, a poor connection in the motor start or run circuit either at the centrifugal switch or the capacitors. A loose connection may overheat and emit a burnt resin odor.

Regardless, you'll want to fix it ASAP as it will likely only get worse resulting in higher repair cost.

check out put with meter or tester - check connections and ground --check line for break or debris

TRY THE MANUFACTURER

When you say breaker, presumably you refer to an RCD? The residual current device will trip if the amount of current in the hot wire does not equal the amount of current in the neutral or return wire. This means some current is leaking away which means the chainsaws might have developed a potentially dangerous fault or might just be the result of an excess of damp sawdust entering the motor housing through the vents - or damp has entered the tools by other means. I find a compressed airline useful for keeping power tools internally clean and dry.

You need to use rated breaker and did you find a fault for why the breaker shorted?