Its really depends on the power supply. What size power supply do you have? The psu is going to be the deciding factor and weather or not you want to upgrade the psu also.
Suggest you check to see if the computer is dirty inside, as well as inside the Power Supply, first.
A cursory glance at the rear of the computer, and the Power Supply fan, will show you. (Where the power cord plugs in)
'Gunk', (Dirt, dust, hair, etc), buildup on the fan, and it's surrounding cage (Shroud), is a good indication the inside of the computer is dirty.
Computer unplugged from power, all cables to the computer detached, open the computer case. (Make sure you know where all the cables plug in, Before you detach them. If you are not sure it would behoove you to make a drawing, and notes)
DO NOT reach inside the computer until you have followed Anti-Static precautions!
[Anti-Static Precautions:
Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit) the delicate hardware components inside a computer. You may not even see it, or feel it.
Computer unplugged from power, computer case open, (Work on a table), TOUCH an unpainted surface of the metal frame work. This action will relieve your body of Static.
Should you walk away in the middle of working on your computer, upon your return TOUCH the metal frame again ]
Gunk inside your computer will cause the Processor to overheat. There are two hardware components which are used to cool the Processor.
The Heatsink sitting on top of the Processor, and the Fan sitting on top of the Heatsink. This is a typical Fan/Heatsink combo used for an example,
The Heatsink is the finned aluminum looking object under the fan. The base, or bottom of the Heatsink, is attached to the Processor.
The base absorbs heat from the Processor, whereby the heat is absorbed by the tall, thin fins. The tall, thin fins then radiate the heat away.
Using a fan in conjunction with a Heatsink, allows the air from the fan to further dissipate the heat, by pushing air through, and around the fins, whereby the heat is carried away.
If the area in between the fins is clogged with gunk, as well as the fan, the Processor can overheat. The Processor has a fail Safe feature whereby if it overheats, it turns off. (BIOS turns it off)
This keeps the Processor from overheating, and burning up. (Literally, in some cases!)
Computer plugged back into power, observe the action of the Processor fan, as you press the Power On button.
Observe whether the fan is spinning, and also if it spins a few times, then stops. The Processor fan Always spins, and should Never stop.
The Processor fan should spin at a decent RPM, also. (Revolutions Per Minute) If it seems to be spinning slowly, it should be replaced. The fan bearings are bad.
The thermal paste that is used in-between the Processor's top case, and the bottom of the Heatsink, may be dried up.
Remove the Heatsink/Fan combo, and check. Thermal paste is used to fill in the imperfections present on the bottom of the Heatsink, and the top of the Processor's case. ['Pits, Hills, and Valleys'}
It would be best at this point to thoroughly clean the top of the Processor's case, and the bottom of the Heatsink, and apply fresh, new thermal paste, properly.
Never hurts, and good thermal paste is cheap. There is a proper method for cleaning, and applying. Should you like this information, simply state in a Comment. (Believe upper right of your page)
Gunk inside the computer also wrecks havoc with the circuitry. There are exposed solder joints above, and below the motherboard. Dust is an excellent conductor of Static electricity.
Suggest you check the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard next. If the computer is clean inside, and the Processor fan seems to be operating okay, these are the components I would check next.
Give them a visual inspection, then if there are no outward signs of visual failure, go to the Power Supply.
Electrolytic Capacitors can fail. Before they fail all the way however, they can operate in a weakened state.
The Electrolytic capacitors in reference, are the ones used for the motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit. Part of what the motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit does, is to regulate Voltage for the Processor.
Processor turns off, No computer.
Capacitors build up a charge slowly, then release it all at once. Electrolytic Capacitors in a weakened state can build up a charge, then release it, only to fail to reach the capacity of stored electricity on the next 'round'. (Next duty cycle)
This can cause the Processor to have the needed Voltage, then suddenly the required amount of Voltage is not there. Cycle repeats itself.
Processor turns on, then turns off, and may repeat for a few cycles.
A Processor MUST have a steady, 'clean' supply of Voltage, and the Voltage MUST stay within a very tight tolerance range. Cannot be too little, or too much Voltage.
To detail the construction of an Electrolytic Capacitor used on the motherboard, (And in the Power Supply), simply let it suffice at this moment that it is a small aluminum 'can', with Electrolytic paste inside.
[Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors]
As the capacitor fails the paste inside develops a gas. (Hydrogen Gas) The gas breaks seals on the 'can' case, and starts pushing paste out. (Oozes out generally)
So much paste loss,and the capacitor operates in a weakened state. Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails. The paste inside can also dry up, and show no visual outward signs of failure.
This will give you information on what the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard look like, and what visual signs of failure look like.
[Computer unplugged from power. Observe Anti-Static Precautions]
With the computer clean inside, use a flashlight for better illumination. May also require a magnification device, such as a magnifying glass, for better observation.
You really need to look close, and scrutinize carefully. It's easy to miss.
Only takes ONE bad capacitor for the Processor to not work, if the capacitor is in the motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit, for the Processor.
Just ONE.
Observe the tops of the capacitors. See if there is a brownish/yellowish ooze. Observe the bottom also.
See if the 'can' case is bulging. Observe whether the capacitor seems to be on a tilt.
Capacitors on the motherboard are not installed perfectly straight, but a lean may suggest that the bottom seal of the capacitor has been compromised.
The synthetic rubber seal (Bung) on the bottom may be pushed out on one side, causing the capacitor to lean.
Everything checks out with the capacitors as far as you can tell, it's on to the Power Supply.
Test the Voltages of the Power Supply. Specifically the 12 Volt power rail. 11 to 13 Volts is okay. Less than 11 Volts requires Power Supply replacement.
You can use a multimeter to check, or a power supply tester, or simply use a KNOWN to be Good, Compatible power supply for a test unit.
[Compatible being that the power supply case is the same size, and shape, and the correct type of power cables are present, as well as the correct amount.
The power supply used is an ATX style, and shape. Approximately 6 inches Long, 6 inches Wide, and 3-1/2 inches Tall.
There may be one available in an unused computer, you, or someone else may have sitting around. Just food for thought.
An economical multimeter can be purchase for around $5 to $12.
Should you like information on how to use the multimeter to test the 12 Volt power rail Voltage, simply state so in a Comment.
You can also unplug the 24-pin ATX main power cable, and the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable, from the motherboard, plus any 4-pin Peripheral power cables leading to the optical drive/s (CD/DVD drive/s), to see if the Power Supply will stay running.
According to Microsoft: Minimum: 1.6 GHz CPU, 384 MB RAM, 1024x768 display, 5400 RPM hard disk Recommended: 2.2 GHz or higher CPU, 1024 MB or more RAM, 1280x1024 display, 7200 RPM or higher hard disk I know that Visual Studio 2008 runs fairly slowly on a 2.4GHz laptop with 1GB RAM, so I can't imagine that it would run all that well on a 1.6GHz machine.
hello, the reason internet is not working on this newly installed windows XP is becuase (most likely)you are missing network card drivers.
To verify right click "My Computer", and select "Properties", then click on "Hardware" tab and click on "Device manager" here you will see anything that is missing drivers has a yellow Excalmation mark (!).
NOw that you have checked which items are missing drivers:-
First thing you should do is open the link below on the laptop with the internet. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareList?os=228&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=3300335
Download Nvidia LAN drivers on your laptop and find a way to bring it to your HP desktop, copy to flash drive, burn it on cd etc...
Install LAN drivers on your HP computer, restart your computer and test internet.
If internet is now working visit the link above again from HP computer and download all the drivers that are missing in device manager, install them one at a time.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you still have problems or get stuck at something.
Could be the monitor or your Presario's VGA card. Swap the monitor with another system to see where the problem lies. If another monitor works on your system , it's your monitor. If another monitor doesn't work, then the problem is the VGA card.
Use a disk from a friend then use your COA on the side of your computer to validate the install, or call Microsoft or your system maker to request support
eset motherbord settings to defaults you can reset with 2 methods. (1)Pull cmos cell from motherbord for 10 minutes so all settings defaults. (2)
Find jumper on motherbord named "Clear cmos" It has 1-2-3 pins.Put
jumper in 2-3 position and thne power up then again put pin in 1-2
position thne all settings defualts. Refix RAM memory.Clean dust from all parts. Open processor and processor fan. Remove pci cards from motherbord then check. Make sure motherbord not ground with cabinet. Let me know if you need further assistance.
