Top 10 Gateway FPD2275W LCD Monitor Questions & Answers

check your monitor power settings.

right click on your desk top then left click on 'properties' in the white box that appears.

this will bring up a 'display properties' box which should have a tab headed 'screen saver' amongst others.

select the screen saver tab.

in this tab there are 2 sections. one to select which screen saver you want to use (and what settings are applied to it), and another section which should be called 'monitor power'.

click the button here which says 'power...' to adjust your power settings.

in the next window there are 4 tabs. select the first tab (power schemes - which should be already selected by default) and you now have 4 options. leave the selected 'power scheme' in the top of the window as it is and just alter the settings for the selected power scheme.

your 4 options are: 'turn off monitor', 'turn off hard disks', 'system standby' and 'system hibernates'  i would recommend setting all of these to 'never', and don't forget to click the 'apply' button after you've done this.

i would also recommend disableing hibernation in the 'hibernate' tab (this is in the same window as the power schemes tab).

once you've adjusted your power settings, don't forget to activate one of your screen savers.  this is only important if you leave the monitor on for a long time with no changes taking place in terms of what is being displayed. if you leave a static image on for hours you will end up with permanent screen burn. (a ghost image that is always there - even when the monitor isn't switched on!).

i don't bother with screen savers personally as i find them annoying, and find it much easier to simply turn the monitor off whenever i'm not going to be using it for the next hour or more.

hope that solved your problem. apologies if it doesn't.

by the way, the tabs etc i described are what i have on my OS (windows XP pro) and may be named differently if you're using a different version of windows.  the 'power options' settings will still be accessible via 'screen saver' tab in desktop properties though.

good luck!

:o)

I have the exact same problem. Just like Ptepe, I also found the 680uf/25v and 1000uf/16v capacitors in positions c203 and c204 on the Power Supply PCB to be bulging on the top. I considered replacing all of the electrolytic capacitors on the board, but decided to just try the visibly effected ones first. Please make note that the instructions provided below are to be followed at your own risk! Soldering on a delicate printed circuit board will be required for this repair and the board can be permanently damaged if done incorrectly, not to mention the potential for bodily harm! If you have warranty, you will obviously want to pursue that avenue first.

1) Remove the monitor's base by removing the plastic cover over the connectors and then the one over the base's bracket and unscrewing the four screws. While you're in the area, there are two screws, one on either side of the bracket, that must be removed. They are in the recessed wells.

2) Turn the monitor upside down so the narrow edge is facing you. You will see at either end of the bottom edge an arrow pointing toward a slot. Side a small flat head screwdriver under the cover in the direction of the arrow. With the screwdriver still inserted, unclip the bezel by pulling the plastic in the direction of the arrow. Repeat on the other side and carefully pry the rest of the clip points loose all the way around the screen, while carefully holding pressure against the screen so it doesn't fall out, and the plastic bezel will come off. Be sure to unscrew the switch assembly from the bottom. There are two screws.

3) Lay the monitor face-down on a soft, clean surface like a folded blanket. There will be five screws on the back with the fifth one in the center. Remove all of these screws and very gently lift the plastic cover away, making sure to keep the screen from falling out abruptly.

4) With the back of the screen and electronics exposed, you will see a sheet metal case with a few wires routing from it to three points on the monitor and the switch assembly. To the left you will see a metal cover held in by one small screw on the narrow edge. Remove this small screw and partially remove any tape that may be securing it. You may replace the tape later if it loses adhesion. Remove it, gently lifting the metal case where it overlaps the cover.

5) Next, partially remove any tape that is securing the wiring harnesses (it can be completely removed if you are planning to replace it). This will give the metal case a sufficient range of motion to allow you to lift it up on the right edge and expose the large harness routed to the top of the screen. This harness has a bit of tape covering the connector at which it terminates, and the tape must be lifted to expose the connector. Gently remove the connector straight out of the socket. Avoid diagonal movement as much as possible.

6) With the large connector removed, the metal case can now be flipped over, with the screen remaining flat, to expose the circuit boards it houses. On the left is the processor board, on the right (the one with the big capacitors) is the power supply board. First, remove the black plastic cover over the power supply board. This may require some flexing of the plastic and/or clips. Be sure to make sure any wires attached to it are detached. Next remove the small metal slide panels covering the upper and lower wiring harness connectors on the case (the ones routed to the upper and lower parts of the monitor on the left side). With the two upper and two lower connectors exposed, note their positions and disconnect them.

7) Now the case is completely disconnected from the monitor. Carefully remove the connector from the board on the right that connects to the board on the left. Unscrew the four bolts holding in the power supply board (the lower left screw is larger than the others). Carefully lift the board out, angling the side with the power connector downward. Be very careful not to touch components on the circuit board.

8) By comparison, you may clearly see which capacitors are bulging on the top. These are the ones you want to replace. If mine and Ptepe's experiences are consistent with yours, you will see two out of a cluster of six larger capacitors with bulging tops (the cluster is on the opposite side of the really big capacitor and the two common capacitors are surrounded by the others). While you have the board out anyway, check for continuity through the fuse with a Digital Multimeter and check for any visible defects such as burn marks or melted solder points.

9) Very carefully desolder the effected capacitors. Verify their rating (most likely one 680uf/25v and one 1000uf/16v capacitor) and order them. If you'd like to replace all of the medium capacitors, it couldn't hurt. You can even replace the really big one if you want, but make sure you measure everything...including height, width and terminal spacing. For the ones that I used, though, they're 10mm x 20mm radial aluminum electrolytic capacitors with 5mm terminal spacing and 105C temperature rating.

10) Solder in the new capacitors, clip the excess pin lengths and reassemble in reverse order. It may take some finesse to put everything back the way you found it, but if you paid attention while you were taking it apart, it shouldn't be too hard (and taking pictures with your camera phone along the way can help too).

This solution worked for me. If it wasn't for shipping, I would have paid $1.18 for the entire repair. If you can find it, the power board can be replaced as an assembly, too, if you screw it up. :) Good luck!

well, you did not come back, please provide more info your problem, i cannot search the driver because need more info as mention above.

best regards, melnavz

Try wiggling the auto adjust button on the front of the monitor, it sounds like the button is jammed against the switch causing it to auto adjust over and over.

please link me to find driver for my video controller.its instant id is :-PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_2562&SUBSYS_25621849&REV_03\3&13C0B0C5&0&10

I read through other solutions to this problem because I had the same problem. I checked to make sure electrical cords were properly attached, and vola! problem solved! I had no idea this problem could be fixed just by checking the cord connections. Thanks a million for posting this solution. I had been putting up with the shadowing, streaking for months! You really made my day.

Ok, I just got one last night, and it took a while to open the bugger. Why put screws when there are so many hidden clips to carefully pop? My poor Craftsman club card will never be the same! But, I digest...

There were two bad capacitors, the first and probably the main culprit was a 1000uF 25volt cap that had expanded and vented. I also found a 680uF 25volt cap that started to expand, and when tested it was low, about 550uF.

If you are so inclined, these can be obtained by mailorder (I use Parts Express), but Radio Shack parts can be used in a pinch, just expect to go back in there eventually. I didn't have the 105 degree low ESR caps, so I used regular ones and I had the monitor up and running in aobut 90 mins.

Check for any capacitors that are expanded at the top. Look for a dome shape or feel with your finger, it should be completely flat. Or look for the rubber bottom pushing out where it goes into the board. This is the third monitor I have repaired in the last six months, and each one needed one or two capacitors to fix a dark back-light problem.

this is actually from dell support website.. hope it will correct your problem...


1 Ensure the correct resolution is set for the monitor. Flat panel monitors display the sharpest, clearest images when set to their optimal resolution. Sometimes games and other programs will change the resolution then fail to set it back once they are closed. This will then make the desktop look big, distorted, and grainy. Perform the following steps to adjust the resolution:

1. Right-click an empty area of the desktop, and then click Properties. (Or, click Start, click Control Panel, and then double-click Display.)
   
   
2. In the Display Properties window, click the Settings tab.
   
   
3. Under Screen resolution, move the slider to the desired setting. For most flat panels the optimal setting will be all the way to the right.
   
   
4. Click Apply, and then click OK.
   
   
5. If prompted, restart the computer.

NOTE: If the resolution will not adjust to the appropriate settings, the video driver may need to be reinstalled or updated.


2 Ensure the screen is clean. Finger prints and smudges will make the screen look blurry. Clean the screen with a soft lint free cloth. If needed, dampen the cloth with warm water or use a LCD cleaning kit that can be purchased from most electronics stores.
3 Use the On Screen Display (OSD) on the monitor to select the Auto Adjust feature. Selecting this will synch the video signal and can sharpen the video image.
4 Reseat the video signal cable to ensure a secure connection.
5 Use the On Screen Display (OSD) on the monitor to select the Factory Reset feature.
6 Test the monitor on another computer or test another monitor on this computer. If available, testing different hardware will isolate if the problem stays with the computer or monitor

Hi!

The problem is not the setting on your monitor...The problem is the backlight inverter located inside the upper and lower edge of your screen..
It is busted. The backlight inverter is the light source responsible for the displaying image on your screen. If these were busted.. then the only thing you will see is black screen.

It is very risky for you to replace it by yourself if you don't have the knowledge and the right tools to open the back of your lcd..My suggestion is to bring your monitor to a credible technician to have your backlight inverter replace. if there is warranty for your lcd, please avail this.

Hope it help..

Much appreciated if you rate this solution..thanks..

Hello Shan,

The W2252tq uses the AIP-0165 power supply board that is also used in the L227Wtg series LG series monitor. This board is known to have issues with the filter capacitors going out. When they go out it causes the monitor to not power up just lie you have. Here is a picture of the power supply board in the unit and below is a link to a repair guide for the L227Wtg, since it has the same power supply the repair guide for the board will be the same.




Here is the repair guide.

http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/repairing-a-lg-l227wtg-pf-22-monitor-no-power/