20 Most Recent Amana Easy Reach AFD2535DE Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

I just got my whirlpool fridge and I'm having the exact same problem! The blue cap appears stuck and I'm afraid I'll break it if I force it with a tool. Please post a solution if you get one - I'll do the same. Thanks.

The smell is coming from the back of my refrigerator and it has been noticeable for about a month. It is the worst when the motor is running. The inside is fine; no smell. Any ideas?

freon is oderless,the gas has no smell to it,what was wrong with the fridge?having sealed system work isn't cheap,was this a new unit?but the gas has no oder

Check if there is no obstruction on the pipes.

Turning it off & back on at the power point may stop the alarm but its telling you there is a fault.

Thank willie for helping with one: "Well, it looks like the pan is a seperate plastic pan and not the compressor mounting pan like some of the newer ones are. It appears that you have to remove the condensor fan motor and mounting bracket then maybe the pan will left up and over the compressor, or maybe there is enough room to lift the pan up and out the front over the condensor coils"

Most likely the coils under the refrigerator need cleaning. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the front, vented cover below the door. With a vacuum cleaner and crevice tool clean the coils off. It may also help the clean off the door gasket and apply a very thin coat of Vaseline. (Don't forget to clean the refrigerator edge that makes contact with the gasket.)

Some models like yours came with a defrost control board and others came with a defrost timer. They should be found inside the fresh food compartment and behind the temperature control panel. You will need to inspect and let me know which you have. Unplug first. If the control board looks or does not look burned it could be bad. The timer can be turned clockwise until compressor stops and should remain stopped for about 25 minutes. and then turn itself back on. If these look good then we need to remove the rear panel inside the freezer and test the defrost element with one wire disconnected to check for continuity. Just to be sure the element has not burned out. The defrost thermostat is connected to the defrost element and will have open contacts inside it above 50 degrees.

Sounds like the compressor is in thermal overload. Let it cool down completely and meter the starting amperage on start to run. The compressor could be seized or it's windings could be shorted to ground (checking the resistance between the windings terminals on the compressor while unplugged will determine this.).

The defrost timer is located in the main control board or on the bottom back side of the fridge. It will be a little black box. But my guess is the control blade which means the board will need to be replaced Good luvk

check door switches
when you open the dorr does the fan normally stop then on closing start again
could be door switch fault