Kenmore 62642 / 62644 / 62649 Microwave Oven - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You can find helpful exploded views and find parts by entering your full model number (72169072900) at the Sears Parts Direct Web site.Remove the glass tray and turn the oven on it side to get to the bottom base plate.If you look at the diagram titled "base plate parts" you'll see the access panel on the bottom in the center that has to be removed to get to the turntable motor screws.On some models, you have to cut the metal strips holding the panel in place, then during reassembly use a screw to reattach it. In some cases, the cover has to be rotate 180 degrees before reinstallation.You then unplug the connectors on the turntable wires, then remove the screws holding the turntable motor, gently lift it out and also ease the turntable off the motor shaft.We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

This is most likely a bad magnetron, but it could also be a bad high voltage diode.

I would check out this website
http://www.applianceaid.com/micro.html

Or you could call a local Appliance Repair Technician

It's most likely a bad door switch or mount. See this file for help on diagnosing, ordering and replacing door switches.
You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.

the link below will take you to the installation instructions if needed.
It is much easier for two people to remove the microhood. If attempting alone, please move the range out so you can get under the micro to support the weight. If the range stays in place, protect the top from damage.
1. make a landing site to the side to protect the floor when putting the micro down after removal.
2. Disconnect the power cord in the cabinet above.
3. loosen the two screws in the bottom front corners of the cabinet above. When removed the front of the micro will drop, be ready for the weight. Busy times, tools in hands microwave coming down in front.
4. tilt the front down. pull the cord out of the upper cabinet.
5. with micro still tilted down in front, lift the back of the unit upward to free it from the wall plate.
6. remove the fasteners in the wall plate and remove.
Congrats, begin celebration.
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0211226.pdf

If the oven is completely dead, (no light or display) it probally is a fuse problem. It does have a 20 Amp fuse. With that being said, I would stress that a qualified service technician check it out. There are some high voltage components inside and a person who is unfamilar with high voltage components can seriously get hurt or even die if they don't take the proper precautions working with this type of appliance.

My Kenmore microwave oven fan has been turning on and off, almost every hour. Sometimes 3 or 4 times in one hour. It's very random. Model No. 721-80593401 Serial No.503TA03208
Please help!!!

It may be a shorting pad (the hood / vent fan pad) on the keypad or a part on the control board.

Absolutely - If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and please do not leave it running unattended.

We regularly repair these control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

If you need a new keypad, that would add about $37 to that cost.

Feel free to visit our Web site or contact me directly with your model number and symptoms.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

I had this problem before. Look on the display. Is there a little 'd' on there? I can't find my manual, but inside it shows you the combination of buttons to push on the display to fix this. Anybody else know the secret combination? What the heck does the "d" stand for anyway?

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel assembly, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

Feel free to contact me directly for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

First of all, if the metal of the waveguide above the magnetron is compromised, the oven would have to be scrapped.

If it's intact, then it can be cleaned and sanded thoroughly. Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

In some models, there were "underperforming" magnetrons which had to be replaced along with stirrers (antennas) and high voltage didoes that also had to be replaced to electronically match the new type magnetron.

If this is the case, your "new" magnetron may not be the new type, but an old type, so the problem would just repeat.

Some suppliers and repair centers may unknowingly keep old version parts in stock.

I would check back with the servicer or supplier, but your magnetron should have a 5 to 9 year warranty.

If it is a design defect, there may be a recall or "campaign" under which you can get this taken care of.

I would call Sears customer service.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

if it is fuse then there should be no lights or display at all. if there is, then it is not a fuse. it could be the magnetron.
the fuse is located inside the microwave. you have to bring it down and open the cover.

i hope i was able to help

pls rate me..

tnx ,
drcool

If it sounds like it is running and it lights up it is not the fuse. In my 24 years of service work I've found that the problem you are describing is cause by the failure of the magnitron ( The device that emits the microwave radiation). As your unit is a built in expensive unit I would look into replacing the magnitron. In cheap microwaves I just suggest replacement. If you need further assistance locating a replacement magnitron feel free to cotact me. It is a relatively easy part to replace. You just open the case and unplug it, unscrew it from the unit, and replace it with the new one. In most cases all you need is a philips head screwdriver and some patience. Anyway, I hope this helps you out in your decicion.
George

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can probably find an exploded view by entering your FULL model number here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com

A full Sears/Kenmore model number usually has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as ###.########

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Plug a lamp into the circuit where the Microwave is plugged in. If the lamp comes on then you know there is power supplied to the microwave and the problem is one of an internal nature. If your light does not come on then your breaker at the main power panel could have tripped. On each breaker is a number which is its rating in amps. Your Microwave may require a 20 amp circuit.

We see this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide for $39.95 postpaid.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

In order to try to set your mind at ease I will have to explain the Basics on how a Microwave Oven Functions.
When a Microwave Oven is set to COOK ...START. It cooks at 100%. There is no lowering of the heat as with a Range ( Cook Top) Control. So in order to do the other things such as DEFROST, WARM, or anything other than 100% COOK. A COOK ON- COOK OFF system was utilized. To DEFROST, the Microve COOKS at 100% for 30% of the TIME, then IDLES for 70% of the TIME. COOK ON 30% of the TIME, COOK OFF 70% of the TIME = DEFROST This is why you can hear the CYCLE. More power is required during the ON CYCLE, thus the lower vibration. The Vibration occurs when the High Voltage Transformer is turned ON ( COOK ON).
The VIBRATION seems to have got louder with age. This is somewhat normal as there is a vibration from the High Voltage Transformer present every time the Microwave is used. screws and other metal parts seem to get loose with this vibration. There is no solution, unless you can tighten EVERY screw, nut, and bolt in the unit.
Sorry!

If you just purchased and Installed the microwave, I would call Sears and tell them what is happening, generally, it would still be under warranty if less than a year old. If its a countertop model, you may have to take it in, otherwise they should come to the home for the repair. I would also NOT indicate that you have looked at it as that would void your warranty.
Otherwise, it seems like the problem could be, a) touchpad , b) a relay or c) the main control board

It sounds like you're saying a flame and pop came out of the area where the internal electronics are? If that's the case, then I would suspect a failed high-voltage transformer, bad magnetron or that another high-voltage component is arcing, like maybe damaged wiring, but that's rare unless... ... I hate to suggest it, but maybe a "critter" has made his way into the high-voltage section! That can cause some really "interesting" effects! If the flame and pop are coming out of the cooking cavity, then it could be food debris or grease underneath the waveguide cover or in the waveguide. I would say the likliest cause is a failed HV transformer. If it's still under warranty, I'd call Sears right away to verify that. If it's not under warranty, you may want to pull it from the wall yourself and take it in to Sears or another shop yourself. You'll probably save about $50 as opposed to letting them come out to the home to service it.

We see this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide for $39.95 postpaid.

We see this a lot. This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, linked here on Fixya:
http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.