20 Most Recent GE JES1344SK Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

The magnetron (m.w. generator) thermostat lost calibration, try to replace it. And don't forget to cover the dish with ceramic/glass lid.

If the air from the fan could not get through to blow through the magnetron to cool it. It is possible the mag went bad.

Yes indeed it could have a blown fuse but be careful your dealing with 120 volts. Good luck

An F3 code means that the touch pad has a short. The touch pad needs to be replaced. If you purchased the microwave new, get your receipt and the unit serial number and contact GE for the repair (1-800-GE-CARES). See http://repair.geappliances.com/ to find a repair center near you. There is a one-year parts and labor warranty on this part. You will need to get the unit to the GE Repair center at your own expense. (I'm assuming that the unit wasn't shorted by a lightning strike or other disaster.) I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

My unit stop working(JES1344SK01)all the lights and clock is working however, l can not get to work what should l do to make it work

Hi,

This is usually due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.It may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or maybe the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.Replace the magnetron accordingly.

Small document to help you in replacing.
http://hubpages.com/hub/GE-Spacemaker-Microwave-Magnetron-Warranty-and-Repair

Thank you for using fixya have a nice day:-)

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If the cavity thermostat needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the wall, in which case you can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

There should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams by entering your full model number here. Once you have the part numbers, though, I would suggest ordering parts here at a much lower cost.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The problem with your Display of your GE Microwave/Speedcooker is not the Digitron WB27X10856 display board? The flickering and ultimately failure over of the display is due to the WB27X10861 GE microwave control board which is a rebranded (LG 6871W1A417/6871W1A417A board) which GE then sells as a markup. The princple purpose of this board is to convert (i.e. rectify) AC to DC at various voltage levels needed by the rest of the microwave to run their control circuits in the microwave. A portion of the GE microwave is always on so the AC/DC supplly is always on. Overtime the electrolytic capacitors in a section of the board fail or degrade to a point they the DC suppy starts to produce ripples in the DC power supply which results in circuit board failures. These ripples produce deep spikes of voltage of 120 Hz that the other circuits are sensitive too. I just exmined a failed WB27X10861 board and measued the capacitance of each of the seven electroylic capacitors. Of the 7 capacitors, 2 had failed over time. The others 5 have degraded 10 to 15 percent but still within their design spec. The two that failed, C07 - 1000uF 25 V had a measured value of 207uF and the other C08 - 220uF had a measured value of 13uF. There was no visible bloating on either SAMWHA SG capacitor. Nomally, these capacitors are rated at 2000 hour at 85 degree C. 2000 hr is only 83 days, but since the voltage is less and the temperature is probably 40 to 50 degrees inside the capacitor these capacitors may last 10 years. They harder they work the shorter the lifespan. There are two solutions, either purchase a new replacement control board or replace the failed C07 and C08 capacitors within the failed board with better ones. You can easily buy 10,000 hour , 105 degree C rated capacitors for probably 25 cents more than 2,000 hour capacitor. Most people don't have the resouces to repair a board so buying a new board is their only solution. Don't buy a used board on ebay because a used board is probably on the verge of failure.

Take model # to searspartsdirect.com. They typically have manuals in parts listings.