yea these things are a mother to get level. And if you get them right, a wood floor will settle under there heavy wieght. I found that after the third releveling . The last time i set all the screw adjusting feet to 35 inch pounds after initial truing. It has been good now for 18 months. One more thing, they have cast ceramic "frames" around the nylon drum that wont take too much abuse. Be sure its level before you cause serious damage.
Hello SMCCRAVE,
You are referring to a top loader problem.
A front loader is different the following is from the youtube page that has video explaining the possible issues!
Washing machine not spinning? This video provides information on how to troubleshoot a front-load washer that won't spin and the most likely defective parts associated with this problem. These are sorted from most likely to least likely to be the issue.
Commonly replaced washer parts:
Drive belt
Door lock switch
Motor control board
Stator/rotor
Drive motor
Good Luck!
Rich Lilja
Generally speaking you will need to at least remove the top of the machine,usually there are a few screws and then it pops off.Also see if the control panel has a screw in it that attaches to the top of the machine.If so you will need to remove this also to avoid breaking the panel. Hopefully you will be able to view all you need to , do you see any signs of the drum hanging awkward like for instance it seems to pitch back,if so there is the issue.I have had to reattach the suspension spring that balances the drum.If so get a good pair of locking pliers to stretch that spring back to its original location,this could have come off during transportation.Hope this helps.
This solution is the best! Thank you so much. You just saved us a whole bunch of $$$ and frustration. 1 baby sock and 1 pair of undies later - the machine is back to normal. THANK YOU!
unplug from power source...remove front lower panel (3 sheet metal
screw wirh 1/4" drive head located on the lower lop of the
panel)...open pump strainer (looks like a large stove knob, Turn it
counter clokwise, lookout! lots of water will gush out... back flush
the pump by filling the outet of the drain hose ( this may dislodge
debris that may jam your pump)...re-assemble, plug to power, and
turn-on. In my case, there was a piece of a pencil lodge in the pump
impeller. I had to disassemble the pump. it can be done if you are
patient and able to figure out how the plastic thing come apart. Good
luck! If all else call the pros!
"F21" is defined as a Long Drain error. This is usually an indication that you may have an obstruction somewhere in the drainage system. Most commonly, this is an indication something is lodged in the drain pump or the inlet line running from the wash tub to the pump. There is a white screw off cap on the drain pump that you can remove to inspect the pump impeller and clean. The following link explains:
Included is a follow-on link that explains how to check the drain pump to clean. On some model washers there is no screw off cap on the pump and you will have to remove the inlet hose that runs from the bottom of the wash tub to the inlet side of the drain pump. Removing the inlet hose for inpsection is recommended on all these washers just to ensure there isn't anything lodged in the line. Debris and small articles of clothing such as socks or under garments can become lodged in this area as well causing the drain cycle to fail.
NOTE: A "SUD" error code can also often occur in conjunction with the "F21" error code. This is due to air being detected in the drainage system, which can occur if the pump is not running, or if you have an obstruction BEFORE the pump. You need to remove the inlet hose from the pump to ensure it is also not blocked. Correct your drainage system fault, and the SUD error (if displayed) should go away.
NOTE: If these preliminary measures do not correct your problem, you may have to replace the drain pump. It does not take much to damage the pump impeller or motor. Since the error code is generated if the drain cycle exceeds 8 minutes, if the pump is damaged and can't pump at the required volume, the error code will continue to appear until the pump is replaced. If the pump requires replacement, the following link explains how:
These are very simple repairs that you can perform yourself without the assistance of a repairman.
If the washer door remains locked and you still cannot open it, there is a manual release you can use to retrieve items left in the wash tub. The following link explains:
If the wash tub is full of water, you may want to use a wet/dry shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain line and drain the wash tub. This will minimize any potential mess you may have to clean up.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:
Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.
NOTE: The error codes are not listed in the owner's manual. For an explanation of all the error codes, each one of these washers comes with a technical data sheet inside.
To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front feet of the washer up for better access ( a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.
The tech sheet lists all error code definitions, troubleshooting data, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. I mention the tech sheet because you may need it to troubleshoot this error code.
Read through the information provided and if you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways andis the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it isimportant that your observation is most important and so is vital to theidentification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water hasleaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on theunderside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here.In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of thehouse and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside.Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be looseon the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning thedrain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water canleak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but thiswill happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.Tips for leak: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1461/do-you-have-a-leaky-washing-machine.html Check for tips on the link below to identify parts andremoval:http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7
It appears your timer/main controller has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing. I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information. RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell. In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
This one indicates a "drain problem" per the manual...
I had to call for service, and I had a baby sock that got sucked into and was blocking the drain. Thank God for the service plan...
Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. If you run the washer with no clothes in it does it still do this? If it does then you have a problem with the load leveling shocks and spring mechanism that holds the drum level during the spin cycle.
Hello, The way to clean the drain pump filter is remove the small front panel below the main one where the door is,the pump will on the right side,unscrew the big white knob justa little bit and have some towels to catch the water that will come out.Once all the water is out unscrew completly and pull it out.
This is likely an electronic glitch as no problem is detected during the diagnostic. Unplug the machine for at least 30 minutes to forcibly reset the control. The longer the machine is unplugged, the better. If the machine still behaves the same after this, the problem is likely the motor control unit (MCU) located at the base of the machine. It has been found that a malfunctioning MCU can lead to an erratic operation of the central control unit (CCU) and it may give codes or signals that cannot be found in any troubleshooting literature. The MCU is probably sending false signals to the CCU that is triggering a premature completion of the cycle. There's nothing we can do about this problem as of the moment if the problem is not rectified by unplugging the machine. Brace yourself for a total breakdown of the MCU in the near future.
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