20 Most Recent GE WPGT9360EPL Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

when washers go into rinse cycle they use cold water so the clothes don't rinkle,i would say that you have a bad water valve located on the washer,you can try to run the wash at the beginning just with cold water,if the water comes in slow you have a bad valve,you can then run it on just hot water and see if there's a difference in how fast it fills.the strange thing is that it should pop up with an error code after 6 or 8 minutes because the washer is filling to slow,have you seen any codes come up?if it is the valve the part number is WH13X10017 and that valve is under the top console

has an error code come up.

termed as bad main bearing and seal costs about 150-180 for the parts and if you had a technician do the job they would charge you about 4-600. Big job takes experienced technician about 3 hours to most complete the job in 4-5. All this considering I would go with zert cheaper to find another unless you can perform the job yourself in which both the inner and outter tub have to be removed and seperated in the unit. If you have any further questions message me back. I await your reply Thanks Rick

Do you have any display on the screen or is it completely dead?

After more thought, it dawned on me another possible reason. In my case, the washer is draining water, but it keeps cycling the pump on and off, thinking that the pump isn't working properly, and the washer doesn't go into its high-speed spin to eke the last bit of water out. It dawned on me that it could be that the pump is fine, but the sensor is lying, saying there is more water when there isn't.

I looked at the tube for the sensor, and noticed a small blockage of white soft stuff. I disconnected the sensor tube from the tub (in the back), managed to squeeze the blockage out, connected it back up, and now it all works fine (about 5 loads and I haven't seen the pump message)!

So if your pump is draining water successfully, but the washer keeps complaining and refuses to go into the high-speed spin, then perhaps this is your situation as well (or a bad sensor, etc.).

Note that I'm pretty sure the blockage is what ended up ruining my first pump. The blockage matches the color and consistency of the caulk/glue that was used to attach the sensor tube, so my suspicion is that too much was put on at the factory and ended up going into the tube, but not enough to cause problems initially. After several years of use and perhaps a bit of water mineral buildup, it finally became a full clog.

Finally, note that, as you may have guessed from the design of the machine, when you disconnect the hoses at the bottom, there's always a few cups or more of water in the two black hoses and the pump that it can't manage to push all the way to the drain.

you have a bad water valve. you can replace the valve and it will be fine. I will warn you that working on your machine can be complicated. after you look closely at the how, you may decide that a pro is the best way to go. here is a link if you decide to tackle it yourself.http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=467904&ModelNum=WPGT9360E0PL&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=2&Selected=00117836i01&Position=2&mfg=GE&Type=&Mark=2

Press the Back Button and the Heart (My Cycles) buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds or more. This will reset the screeen. Diagnostics will then run. Let it run through the diagnostics on the screen and then the washer can be used.