20 Most Recent Kenmore 67082 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

It is behind the drum.

"DR" is not a known error - please re-check and post the error code.

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Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...

It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise


heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "That answer was very informative - thank you fortaking the time to educate me. " - teresa241964
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There are several temperature related fuses (see the pictures above). If the dryer won't even start, it is usually the first one, which is located on the exhaust ductwork. If the dryer, won't heat up, it is normally one of the two mounted to the metal surrounding the heating element. Regardless, locate and test all three. Before turning the dryer back on, make sure the vents are all clear, otherwise you will get to repeat the job. None of the fuses are resetable.

I have been experiencing the same constant beeping throughout the drying cycle with the loud and soft lights alternating. After reading every post I could find related to this issue. I removed the top console and found the hidden tech sheet. I ran the diagnostic mode and got error code F 2 which means there is a failure or interface mismatch, whatever that means. Well, when I read that folks have spent hundreds of dollars to replace the part and the problem returns and since the dryer functions perfectly fine except for the beeping, I just removed the beeper from the control board (twisted it off). Crossed my fingers and put everything back together. Turned on the dryer and bingo, beep is gone and dryer works fine. I know this isn't a proper fix, but Sears doesn't have one either. I had a Sears Tech to my house right before the warranty expired and she had no idea what to do and said the dryer was so new, they didn't have any specs. She didn't even remove the top to get the tech sheet and check any of the connections or run the diagnostic test? Just kept pushing different buttons and unplugged and it seemed to reset, but of course came back. Hope that helps someone else who doesn't have the money to replace and knows that Sears won't do it. Good luck!

aye, see if you can enter the diagnosis mode. What we are looking for is the F-02 code. This will flash when there is a stuck button or user interface problem and only displayed in the test mode. With the unit plugged in and all indicator lights off, select any button except stop. Press for 3 seconds, release for 3 seconds, press for 3 seconds, release for 3 secnds and press for 3 seconds. If you did it right 88 should appear. Press the same button again and if there is a error, it should show up. If no error code shows, open the consol and check the p-5 connector. This will be the interface ribbon to the board. Reseat it and see if the problem stops. Catriver

Just had one of those calls today......what I found this time was simply that the blue communication wire harness (I think it's a 3 wire, very easy to spot, runs from the side of each control board) had popped loose from the MCU. Inspect each connection for damage, and re-seat the connectors back into the controls. If that doesn't do it, you can measure for voltage (no fun with those tiny connectors) to the MCU. The code F-40 simply means loss of communication between the CCU and MCU. So it actually could be either board. Check it out and re-post if needed.

Need to check if the heating coils/cartridge has failed. All what is required is to check the output to the coils or check the conitinuity of the coils. If open the coils must be replaced. If voltage is not present at the time of cycle, then the output relay is faulty or there is no trigger from the program controller switch.Sometimes it can b e a wire break to the heater but unless the circuit is tested, it cannot be confirmed.