1) Make sure valve is open all the way 2) some machines have a screen inside of the hose hook up which could be clogged. 3) last check to see if it is the hot or cold by switch your selector switch on your machine to hot then cold. If one of these positions eliminate the noise then the valve in the machine is bad.
The drain hose is plugged or kinked or the drain pump is not working. Check and clear the drain hose from any debris that might be causing the water not to be pumped out. After checking and clearing the drain hose and the water is still not pumped out of the washer, check the pump to see if the impeller is good or the pump needs to be replaced. Access to the pump requires the top cover and the front panel to be removed. Disconnect power to the washer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.
The top cover is attached to the front panel by two clips positioned at about 3 inches from the corners. Use a putty knife and insert the blade into the seam between the top cover and the front panel assembly at the position of the clips.
Push the putty knife blade against the clips, one side at a time while lifting the cover to disengage the clips. Lift the top cover off the front panel then remove the two screws securing the front panel to the upper front corner braces of the cabinet.
Lean the top edge of the front panel away from the cabinet and lift the panel to disengage its bottom from the base clips. Move the front panel away from the cabinet to access the pump.
Disconnect the pump inlet and outlet hoses from the pump then remove the three screws mounting the pump assembly to the base of the washer.
Slide the pump to the rear of the washer to disengage the belt from the pump pulley and pull the pump assembly out of the washer.
Clear the pump inlet and outlet hoses for any debris to ensure water is not blocked from being pumped out of the washer.
Check the impeller. Remove the four screws securing the pump housing to the pump base then lift the housing off the base. Clean the impeller and the pump housing; replace the pump assembly if the impeller is damaged.
To replace the pump, set the pump pulley into the base opening and put the belt on the pulley. Install the mounting screws while holding tension on the belt to keep it on the pulleys.
Connect the pump inlet and outlet hoses and secure it with the clamps.
Position the bottom of the front panel back into the base clips then secure the top to the upper front corner braces of the cabinet with the two securing screws.
Push the top cover down into position to the front panel to complete the procedure.
Note: For Maytag Atlantis MAV8000A, the pump assembly is part number 35-6465.
If your washer doesn't seem to work at all, check these:
No power Lid switch No power
Checkto see whether power is getting to the washing machine. Is it pluggedin? Has a fuse blown or is a circuit breaker tripped?
Lid switch
Ifthe lid switch is defective, your washer can't spin and may notfunction at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housingnear the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or frontof the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need toreplace it.
Some machines have a special lid-switch fuse nearthe lid switch, inside the control panel. If this fuse blows, the unitwon't fill with water until you replace the fuse.
Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean (ref manual). There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it (4 to 6 inches maximum) Of course some direct the hose into sink, fine. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.
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I found this reference on the web ... from a repair technician on a Maytag Maxima>>>
So I'm really sorry to bring you this bad news, but let me explain your error codes. F06 E02 is a communication error between your MCU (motor control unit) and your CCU (central control unit). You'll want to remove the top panel, the control panel, and then the front panel of the washer and make sure the wire connections to the motor control unit below the tub are all secure. If everything checks good, you'd need to have the MCU replaced.
From a different reference on a similar Maytag MHW6000XW2 ... also indicating communication issue
Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail.
Helpful?
Good luck on your troubleshooting!
Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.
Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.
Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.
Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.
Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.
Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked.
I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day.
Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet!
..
does not Pump or Spin
Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail.
Helpful?
Good luck on your troubleshooting!
