No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2wBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
In the Maytag MHWZ400TQ01 washer model, the wire harnesses refer to the various electrical connectors and wiring throughout the machine. They connect the different components, such as the control board, motor, sensors, and other electrical parts.
To locate the wire harnesses and check them for any issues, you'll typically need to access the inner components of the washer. Here are some steps to follow:
Unplug the washer: Ensure the washer is disconnected from the power supply for safety.
Remove the top panel: Look for screws at the back of the washer holding the top panel in place. Remove these screws and slide the top panel backward or lift it up, depending on the model, to access the internal components.
Locate the wire harnesses: Once the top panel is removed, you should see various wire harnesses connected to different components. They are typically bundles of wires with connectors at the ends. These connectors plug into corresponding receptacles on the components.
Inspect the wire harnesses: Check each wire harness for any signs of damage, such as loose connections, frayed wires, or connectors not properly seated. Ensure all connections are secure and properly plugged in.
Repair or replace as needed: If you find any damaged wire harnesses, you may need to repair or replace them. Repairing involves fixing loose connections or re-crimping connectors. If a wire harness is severely damaged, it's best to replace it with a new one.
As for obtaining a diagram or parts list specific to your washer model, it's recommended to visit the Maytag website or contact their customer support. They can provide you with the necessary documentation or direct you to resources that can help you identify and locate the parts in your washer.
Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components and ensure the washer is completely disconnected from the power supply before performing any inspections or repairs. If you're unsure or uncomfortable with these procedures, it's best to consult a qualified technician for assistance.
Do you have children or a husband that leaves things in pockets? Something may be between the inner and outer drum. If you get a flashlight and put it on the holes in the inner drum, it will illuminate between the two. You can also try spinning the drum by hand, listen and feel.
Do you have children? Lid locks were introduced after a child put his arm into a spinning washing machine and had his arm torn off out of its socket. If you have children, please don't do this. Buy the part and replace the lock. $22 for a new one!
https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+mvwc565fw1+lid+lock+replacement
But if you really want to do it....
The F9, E1 is a long drain situation, I have seen that caused by an apple stalk caught in ribs of the drain hose that caused a build up of lint which partially blocked the drain. Remove the drain hose and the top hook and flush it through from both ends.
However, the humming is telling you that either the start/run capacitor on the motor is failing. On some models there is a motor control board. It is better to call for service on a fault like that. The capacitor can be tested. The control board can be replaced. The whole motor is an expensive replacement.
No model number, so generic answers
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/913203/Maytag-Washer.html
The F5 E2 alert indicates the washer can't engage the lid lock because there may be an obstruction in the lid lock area. Please check the lid lock area and remove any objects in that area.
Jun 22, 2021
Possible bad tooth in the timer gears. Replace the timer. Be sure to take a few snapshots with a phone in case you get wires mixed up Mark same color wires and replace them one by one. (BE SURE TO UNPLUG UNIT BEFORE CHANGING TIMER!)
If you hear water swishing around when you turn the drum, but you don't see any at the bottom of the drum, that's normal and the way it's designed. Its most likely because there's 2 drums, an inner which is the one you are turning and an outer. The outer drum is stationary and always retains some water that it cannot pump out. The remaining water also helps for balancing the drum when spinning...
If your Maytag washing machine is making a loud noise during the spin cycle and is not draining the water, there are a few possible causes. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the problem:
Check the drain hose: Make sure the drain hose is not clogged or kinked. If the hose is clogged or kinked, water may not be able to drain properly.
Check the pump: The pump is responsible for draining the water from the washing machine. If the pump is not working properly, it may be making a loud noise and not draining the water. You can check the pump by removing the front panel of the washing machine and locating the pump. Check for any visible damage or obstructions.
Check the belt: The belt is responsible for turning the pump. If the belt is worn or broken, the pump may not be able to drain the water properly. You can check the belt by removing the back panel of the washing machine and inspecting the belt.
Check the bearings: The bearings are located in the drum of the washing machine and can wear out over time, causing a loud noise during the spin cycle. If the bearings are worn out, they will need to be replaced.
If you are not comfortable troubleshooting the problem yourself, you may want to contact a professional appliance repair service for
If your Maytag Centennial washing machine is making a sound like it's draining water even though there's no water in the tub, it could be an issue with the drain pump. The drain pump is responsible for removing water from the machine during the spin cycle.
Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:
Unplug the washing machine and remove any remaining water from the tub manually.
Check the drain hose for any kinks or blockages. If you find any, clear them out.
Remove the drain pump from the washing machine and check for any clogs or damage. If you find any, clean or replace the pump as needed.
Reinstall the drain pump and run the washing machine to see if the issue has been resolved.
If these steps do not solve the problem, it may be necessary to call a professional repair technician to diagnose and fix the issue.
To retrieve error codes from your Maytag BRAVOS MCT washing machine, you can try the following steps:
Make sure the washer is in standby mode (all lights off).
Select any three buttons (except POWER) and follow the steps below, pressing the buttons in the following order within 8 seconds:
Press and release the 1st button
Press and release the 2nd button
Press and release the 3rd button
Repeat this sequence two more times (a total of 3 times)
If the buttons are pressed in the correct sequence, all indicator lights will turn on for 5 seconds and then turn off except for the "lid lock" indicator.
The washer will then start a diagnostic test cycle and the error codes will be displayed in the "Estimated Time Remaining" display.
Note: Make sure to write down any error codes displayed on the screen, as they will be helpful in troubleshooting the issue with your washer.
It is possible that the power outlet the washer is plugged into has lost power. Check to see if the outlet is working by plugging in another device. If the outlet is working, then it is possible that the power cord has become loose or disconnected. Check the power cord to make sure it is securely plugged into the wall and to the washer. If the power cord is securely connected, then you may need to call a professional to diagnose and repair the issue.
If your Maytag washing machine is agitating during the spin cycle, it could be due to a few different issues. Here are some possible causes:
Defective Transmission: The transmission in the washing machine is responsible for shifting the agitator and the drum between the spin and agitation cycles. If the transmission is defective, it may not be able to engage or disengage the agitator properly, causing it to spin during the spin cycle.
Worn Drive Belt: The drive belt connects the motor to the transmission and helps to control the speed and direction of the agitator and drum. If the belt is worn or damaged, it may not be able to properly control the agitator, causing it to spin during the spin cycle.
Malfunctioning Clutch: The clutch in the washing machine helps to regulate the spin and agitation cycles. If the clutch is not functioning properly, it may not be able to disengage the agitator during the spin cycle, causing it to spin along with the drum.
Faulty Timer: The timer controls the various cycles and functions of the washing machine, including the spin and agitation cycles. If the timer is faulty, it may not be able to properly sequence the cycles, causing the agitator to spin during the spin cycle.
It's best to have a professional technician inspect and diagnose the issue to determine the exact cause and the necessary repairs.
