20 Most Recent Maytag Dependable Care LAT9706 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I have the same problem with my washer. If I can figure it out I will let you know.

bearings are shot. I think there's a overhaul kit but thats what it is. Had same issue. get the agitator out with a socket wrench from the top and you'll see the various collars bearings etc.

open lid pull tub to you till you hear a click(when you have an off balance load the tub will trip the switch)

The belt turn the pulley, but the height of the pulley is worn out so it didn't push up a mechanism to release the brake and to engage with the clutch to make the spin.
You have to takethe shaft out to study how it works then it makes sense on what I 'm talking.
The pulley cost only $11 but it is a major laboring exercise. It is a good learning to have hands on to this problem. Good luck on replacing the pulley.

Here's the same advice I gave another person with a similar problem to yours. The squealing can be caused by the brakes, or a worn snubber. It's usually a combination of BOTH. Since you may have to take the to disassemble the unit to repair, it only makes sense to replace the snubber as well. The part costs less than $10 in most cases.

The following link explains the problem you are having with your Maytag:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r387833-maytag_washer_squeaking_problem

It is common for the brakes on Maytag top loaders to wear and make noise, as well, as the snubber. There is a helpful tip that you can try to quieten the noise if it is the snubber by using corn starch. DO NOT oil it, or lubricate with any petroleum based products! This will ruin the unit and actually make the problem worse. NOTE: If the snubber is excessively worn, it was also cause vibration on the spin cycle.

If the brakes are worn, however, you can put a light film of oil on the brake pad. It is common for the pad to collect moisture in humid and damp climates and start to squeak against the brake stator. The brake pad consists of a rotor with a leather edge (pad). The leather can absorb moisture and begin to squeak against the brake stator. Oiling it slightly will get rid of the noise.

Confused? If you have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information useful.

NOTE: There is a follow-up comment at the bottom of the link I provided from another user. The method this person used to release the tension on the brake can save you from having to purchase the brake release tool.

NOTE: You cannot access the brake pad or snubber by simply removing the front of the washer. You can SEE them, but you won't have full access until you disassemble the washer as outlined in the link I provided.

Open the top console panel to access the spin/start switch and reset the start switch. If that does not work, replace the start switch.

it seems like aproblem w motor maybe need to acouple of new carbon brush to fit in motor
i think that because it seems to me from your words that the motor only works w no load
thanks

check lid switch

Check drain hose first.

If you do not find any blockage, then you will need to access the pump, remove pump hose and look for blockage in there.

If there is no blockage at all, then either the water level switch, a faulty pump, a wiring problem, or a faulty timer board can be cause the machine not draining.

I looked for a motor on-line, no luck.

The motors in this category of dryer are not what they used to be. It's not like just taking out an old 5x10 encapsulated dryer motor and installing a new one.

My guess is the reason we can't find one is the manufacturer forbids selling these to anyone but a licensed repair service.


If you take the dryer apart, you'll see what I mean.

$380 is hard to swallow, but I don't think you have many options here except to shop around for a better price.

You might want to test the inlet valves for a very low resistance reading or a dead short Also check the motor etc for a short to earth using a Insulation Tester. Does it pop the fuse while it's meant to be filling up or while it should be spinning or washing? Cheers

YOU NEED A NEW LID SWITCH
STEVE'S APPLIANCE
516-300-3249

If you have a water selector switch thats adjustable it will ahve a regulator knob in front of the washer and be part of the controls. If its electronic it can be the sensor or board. See below.

As to how to get to it usually there is a panel that screws the dash (raised part) of the control panel and the back comes off or the front and sometimes the whole panel with further access being gained after removal of the dash.

If its a mechanical type it will have an air tube going to it and 2 or 3 wire terminals with at least 2 wires on it. Mark the color and terminal numbers down before removing them. Also the tub needs to be empty when you are replacing the switch to make it read correctly.

Here are some things on how it works:Water fill switches usually have an air tube that as the water level comes up the air pressure increases and causes the switch to go from fill to wash.
I have seen rodents chew holes in the air tubing and this could be the cause or you may have a bad switch.
Some times the switches also get out of calibration and need readjusting (especially if you have moved in altitude like up a mountain or into a valley).
If this helps you please rate me as high as possible.
If it doesnt help you please rediscribe your problem in more detail to help me understand, post back and I will follow up.

This is usually a simple heating coil malfunction. The coil may have breaks in it causing it not to work. It could also have something to do with 1 of several heating sensors that may be broken, telling the dryer's heating coil that the dryer is too hot, in effect turning off the heating coil. If your dryer has a round lint filter in the rear of the drum, it was 1 of 2 models of Dependable care dryers produced in the 1970's. If this is the case, i supose it would be up to you whether you want to try and get it repaired or not. If you have one of the more recent models,,, the lint filter is directly behind the door, at the front of the drum. and in this case it would probably be a good idea to get it looked at it as Maytag is a relatively dependable brand.

The following link explains the problem you are having with your Maytag:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r387833-maytag_washer_squeaking_problem

It is common for the brakes on Maytag top loaders to wear and make noise, as well, as the snubber. There is a helpful tip that you can try to quieten the noise if it is the snubber. DO NOT oil it, or lubricate with any petroleum based products! This will ruin the unit and actually make the problem worse. NOTE: If the snubber is excessively worn, it was also cause vibration on the spin cycle.

If the brakes are worn, however, you can put a light film of oil on the brake pad. It is common for the pad to collect moisture in humid and damp climates and start to squeak against the brake stator. The brake pad consists of a rotor with a leather edge (pad). The leather can absorb moisture and begin to squeak against the brake stator. Oiling it slightly will get rid of the noise.

Confused? If you have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information useful.

NOTE: There is a follow-up comment at the bottom of the link I provided from another user. The method this person used to release the tension on the brake can save you from having to purchase the brake release tool.

Check the lid switch first.  Use an ohmeter set on 1x if you get a reading it is bad.  About $25.00 at an appliance repair supply house. If switch is good it is probably the timer.  Someone who knows what he is doing needs to determine if the motor is running when in spin/rinse.  If not, a new time can be found online for $75 to $125.

ok lets see here;your transmission can go in two directions.if you turn the middle pully one way it will agaitate if you turn the oppisit direction you can watch [from under neath]the brake raise as the cam seperates and lifts the brake.now with the brake lifted ,your tub should spin.if its not lifting the brake you need a new center pully kit[i have had to do many]it comes with washers ,bearings and cams.if the brake lifts and your tub still wont spin you may have a pice of clothing between the two tubs[i had that one to,many times]i hope that helps.you can email thru fixya if need more advice God bless ,tom