20 Most Recent Maytag SAV3710AWW Washer Questions & Answers

There is still water in the machine , the pressure sensor my not be operating there is a loose contact in the motor spin winding or the timer no supply voltage is going to the motor check the votlage at the motor at spin cycle

Sir Normally i does not spin, the problem can the drain has choked try cleaning the drain or the drain valve is not activated

HI,
IM LEO

MAKE SURE THE HOSES ARE ATTACHED TO THE RIGHT INLET IN THE BACK OF WASHER
PUT EA. HOSE OVER IN THE WASHER AND TURN ON THE WATER TO MAKE SURE EA.
HAS THE RIGHT VOLUME
IF THEY DO THEN YOU KNOW THE WATER IS GETTING TO THE MIXER VALVE
THEN YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE MIXER VALVE. (THAT'S WHAT THEY SCREW ON)
THIS IS THE MOST COMMON SOLUTION. THERE ARE OTHERS THAT ARE A LITTLE MORE COMPLICATED LIKE THE WATER LEVEL SWITCH IN THE CONSOLE.
Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please rate me if this helped.

Your drum is going unbalanced with the load.

Either you do have an unbalanced load but more likely is that the dampers on the underside of the drum have failed. (they are like shock absorbers)

There normally are 2 dampers attached to the drum and the frame.

They are accessed by tipping the machine onto its side.

However the machine is heavy and make sure you disconnect power and water if you want to investigate.

Cost of new dampers are around 50 each.

---

--

Please dont forget to vote if you liked my answer

thanks

------

have it checked for balance position and/or motor or tub mounts

Symptom Causes Test procedure Solution
1E persists in washer display Lid lock switch With the lid open check for no continuity across the lid lock switch Replace lid lock switch

here are a few tips on brake assembly removal and such.
This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It?s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

I hope you find these instructions helpful.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

that machine like most brands of washers have an "idler"pulley to automatically adjust belt tension,either "idler" is defective or belt is off a pulley somewhere under there,tip washer against a wall with a towel so you dont scratch washer finish and have someone steady it while you check those things out.

yes this sounds like a timer it sounds like it is getting stuck in the cycle. replace the timer and this will clear up the problem

you may have a sock stuck in the drain keeping it from draining. the burning belt would be from running it and trying to get it to drain when it cant

Dear Sir/madam,

First check the Lid switch, motor and belts.
With all that you check, this would be the next thought, this is rightunder the tub AGITATOR, Remove the LOCK SCREW and you should see it.

http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/Inventory.65335/qx/PartDetail.htm?SourceCode=1

Parts break down

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=103581&ModelNum=LAT8234AAE&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=35576&Position=6&mfg=Maytag&Type=&Mark=6

thanks
good luck

Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Maytag+MVW7232HW0+top+load%2C+error+codes+and+condensation+on+control+panel ..

Troubleshooting chart-

https://machinecompanion.com/maytag-neptune-washer-not-draining/

The label should be at the back where the power goes in. The label is supposed to be not able to be removed (strong adhesive or metal and riveted. There may also be a service manual and wiring diagram in the top console. Pictures and mentions here, but no model details. You could also try emailing Maytag. https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+ensignia+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles You can upload pictures, but we know what the machine is because of your excellent description. After more searching it may be MDE4806AYW although it says 12 cycles? https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+%22ensignia%22+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles+manual ..

I found this reference on the web ... from a repair technician on a Maytag Maxima>>> So I'm really sorry to bring you this bad news, but let me explain your error codes. F06 E02 is a communication error between your MCU (motor control unit) and your CCU (central control unit). You'll want to remove the top panel, the control panel, and then the front panel of the washer and make sure the wire connections to the motor control unit below the tub are all secure. If everything checks good, you'd need to have the MCU replaced. From a different reference on a similar Maytag MHW6000XW2 ... also indicating communication issue Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail. Helpful? Good luck on your troubleshooting!