20 Most Recent Electrolux 24 in. EDW5505EPS Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher Questions & Answers

My six year old Electolux Dishlex DX 403 dishwasher stopped heating the water. I found comments on the internet about burnt out solder joints in the control box. A friend opened the control box and found a blackened area on the back of the circuit board. Once the connection was re-soldered the water heated again. We also found that quite a few wires leading to the control box had overheated and the insulation had melted. Considering that this dishwasher was the top model from Electrolux at the time, I was not impressed. I had previously had a Vulcan Dishlex for almost 20 years.
Thanks to those people who previously posted information about this fault.

Hi
soyunds like it flooded the base
You need to dry out the base of the machine thoroughly and it should re set

Usually the error code 01 means you backed up water in the unit. First be sure that the drain is clear.  Run the garbage disposal and be sure your sinks are draining.

I got lucky on a EIDW6105 unit by trying this.

All the lights are flashing and it shows error code 01.

Push down on two of the buttons and hold (I pushed on the Favorite and Heavy buttons), until the flashing stops (about 8 seconds).

The machine now showed and error code 08.  Then hit the start button.  My washer then cleared and runs normally.

Hope this helps, better than a sevice call to clear the code.

try this link might help you.. Dishlex DX302 spray arm blocked Google Search

I know what the problem is.

The 10 error relates to a water inlet problem. In my case the water was going in, but after about a minute it would display the error code and beep.

I knew the computer would sense for the incoming water and if it doesn't sense the water entering I assumed it goes into the error. There are two water pressure switches near the wash cavity base on the right side (looking from the front) which do the sensing. Each has a hose going from the switch to the sump at the bottom of the wash cavity.

At first I checked each pressure switch with a multimeter. I removed each hose from the sump andI gently blew into each hose while watching the multimeter. An audible click can be heard and the meter showed the switch closed indicating both pressure switches were OK.

Next I reconnected each hose to the sump and removed the other end from each pressure switch. A gentle blow into each revealed one hose connection to the sump was blocked. The blockage prevents the water level from activating the pressure switch at the appropiate time. The other sump hose connection was OK.

With an air compressor I blew compressed air back up the hose and into the sump on the blocked side. I lay the dish washer onto the left side to make it easier and to ensure the blockage would not remain in the sump when blown out. A clump of food scum was cleared from the sump with the compressed air.

Put it all back together and I don't need to wash by hand again and I have one happy wife.

Electrolux support site doesn't show a "CF" code. "PF" is Power interruption. http://www.electrolux.com.au/support/troubleshooter/

Hello Mona, thank you for your post! I understand your dishwasher is blinking and will not allow you to select a cycle. Some possibilities why this may be occurring include a communication issue with the control board, defective cording, door switch or wiring harness. I always recommend resetting your dishwasher first. You can do so by unplugging your appliance or flipping the circuit breaker for about 30 seconds and then turning your appliance back on. If your touch pad buttons are still not responding and continues to blink, then I am fairly confident that an authorized service agent will be able to restore your appliance to its normal operating condition. You can often locate a qualified service technician on the manufacturer website. Best regards!

check out my thread on a similar issue. If your power button doesn't light and delay button does not light? Is the LCD screen display anything? check out my post several really good check lists.

Is their debris in air gap or in the bottom of the DW, where the drain is screened? 1. The air gap is usually located on top of the sink. Lift off the pretty cover, and unscrew the top cap nut. Is there rice and debris there? Remove it then. Reassemble and check it out. 2. The DW drains to the bottom of the unit where the pump is. This area is screened off so that the pump doesn't get clogging debris in it. is their leaf lettuce and stuff covering this? Remove that debris. Some times this area can only be accessed by removing the bottom spinning spray head. It comes off with a nut, possibly this nut is reverse thread. Reassemble when done looking for debris. 3. Is the drain line between the DW pump (located under the DW) and the waste pipe kinked? This line is a plastic corrugated line about 7/8" around the outside. It is a pumped waste and won't work if it is kinked, so unkink it. 4. Is the float stuck. This is a device on the bottom of your DW that tells the DW how much water is in the bottom of the DW basin. It looks like a mushroom. Gently move it up and down. Does it move freely or is it stuck? Unstick it. Good luck. Is this a standard installation?

CL - child lock!
hold the Program butoon down for 15 seconds

Hello agusta_bjarn - Are you certain the error code is C03? Could it possibly be E03? If so, typically error code E03 indicates that there is a failure with either the wash motor or motor hall sensor. I suggest checking for suds in the tub and siphoning. A further diagnoses is recommended to have a professional check the wiring between motor and main control board since either part could need replacing.

Try these steps to resolve your demo mode concerns:Demo menu is invoked by holding the Select Option and Right Arrow keys for 5 seconds. Arrow to the DEMO ON option in the demo menu. Press SET to turn off the demo feature. DEMO OFF will be displayed. At this time, all outputs are operational. To return to normal operation, press and hold Select Option and Right Arrow keys for 5 seconds. Let me know if you have any problems or something does not appear to be correct while doing the above. Thanks!

Hello patbauns - Typically the turbidity sensor, or thermistor, is located in the base of the unit. If water is leaking from the door, it is possible that water has made its way into the base of the unit and potentially shorted the thermistor. At this point, I would strongly recommend consulting a professional to narrow down the precise issue before investing in parts that may or may not be the root cause. You can often locate a qualified service provider through the manufacturer website.