20 Most Recent Canon EOS Rebel 2000 with 28-80 lens 35mm Film Camera Questions & Answers

Turn the camera on by turning the left-hand dial (looking from the back of the camera) to the red square marked L for "lock."

Yes, it is.

Yes, you should be able to use them. Be aware, moving to digital there is a 1.6 crop factor. The means your 100 mm lens will have the field of view (FOV) of a 160 mm. No, it does not mean it is a 160 mm it is the fFOV is the same as a 160 mm. Also, at the other end is were you will most want to purchase a wide angle lens.
Example: your 28 mm film lens now has the FOV of 44.8, not wide angle. As you can see wide angle is where the move to digital crop sensor cameras lose out. To get back to wide angel you would need a 17 mm lens, that would give you 27.2 mm FOV.
To figure FOV take the lens multiply it by the crop factor. On a Canon it is 1.6, on a Nikon it is 1.5, the 4/3 sensor is 2.0.

Your camera is primarily an autofocus model: manual focussing is very much a secondary feature and is always very free moving. If it were any other way then it would cause the AF motor to work much harder and dramatically shorten the battery life.

As a result, accurate and fast manual focussing is harder to achieve and is not helped by the lack of a any focussing aids such as a split circle and microprism collar. It's not impossible though, and the increased depth of field when shooting at anything other than maximum aperture allows a bit of leeway for any errors. Just make sure on your camera to switch off the AF if you do wish to manually focus.

Make sure the camera has fresh batteries, and is not set on B. If the camera is set on P, TV, AV or M and still does it then it will need to be repaired.

Thanks for the extra info, it's just a question of whether your problem is with the lens or the body.

Do you get the same problem with other lenses? If so the body is faulty and if not it's that one particular lens.

Aperture control is fully electronic, so start by using an eraser to clean the metal contacts on both the lens mount and the camera body; a clean pencil eraser is best as dirty ones are soiled by conductive graphite which can make things worse. Pen (ink) erasers must be avoided as they often have metal particles incorporated, or fine grit which is also terrible for your camera.

If this doesn't fix the problem then chuck whichever item is faulty away and replace it. Seriously. The EOS 300 (EOS Rebel 2000 in the USA) body was very cheaply designed and manufactured by Kodak on Canon's behalf and never designed to last. The same is true of all EOS 35mm triple number/Rebel models.The kit lens which you have was also very cheaply built for Canon but by a variety of factories. Yours will be anywhere between eight to eleven years old now so have done well, but no longer supported by Canon and spares are discontinued.

Even if you can get them, spares will be disproportionately expensive to buy and beyond any economic sense to have fitted, especially as you'll simply be waiting for the next inevitable age/wear related fault to occur.

Both items are unpopular with Canon collectors, and those who actually use Canon 35mm gear prefer the more solidly built upmarket examples as they cost only a little more. If you want another EOS 300 SLR kit then ask/look on your local FreeCycle groups (also Freegle in the UK only) as that model is quite literally worthless secondhand and my last couple were acquired that way. They do sell on auction websites, but only for between £5 and £25 for an exceptional example; even then the body is usually effectively free and it's whichever lenses and accessories that bump the price up.

If you want better quality, then look for any of the double digit EOS models, or if lucky, a single digit model (in the USA this means ignore the Rebels and go for the Elans or the EOS 3 & 5). These models are sought after by collectors and users but can still be picked up at low prices or even for free.

Looking at camera from the front, the flash hinge is on the right hand side. Mine was corroded (due to sea spray). I removed the two arms which limit the travel of the flash, MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH WAY UP THEY GO AND ON WHICH SIDE! remove the three very small screws which hold the cover on the flash and remove the cover. Now you can ease the bearing our and clean with Iso-propyl alcohol. Do not oil!. Reassemble and ensure it moves freely.

New batteries should always be charged before the first use as they loose charge lying idle in stores. All batteries do.

cudgegong said in another forum:

To resolve the annoying "change the batteries" problem. Goto menu, choose yellow menu, select
file No. reset to ON. Turn camera off and back on.

Voila fixed.

The Ilford Delta 400 Professional is indeed DX coded. Since the camera does not allow you to check the shutter without film inside, there's no way we can confirm the shutter is working properly. So only option is a service center. Since all other things are working properly, it should be a simple repair.

Just push the flash back and it locks ,...... thats flash off

I got a Rebel 2000 off ebay, and it had the same problem. The Shutter wouldn't open, it showed dead batteries, and the mirror hung until I pressed the shutter button or changed modes.
After a good deal of surfing, I found that the most likely reason was a sticky/oily shutter
(http://photonotes.org/articles/oily-shutter/).
Since I didn't have much $$$ invested in the camera, I tried cleaning the shutter curtain with Qtips and alcohol. After a little cleaning, the shutter started to move. After a lot of cleaning, the shutter moves freely. I ran a roll of film through it, and it seems to be working just fine now.

Hello, I think dust, smudges, or fingerprints on the lenses can affect image quality and stabilization performance. Use a soft, lint-free cloth or lens cleaning solution to gently clean the lenses of your binoculars. Make sure not to apply excessive pressure or use abrasive materials that could scratch the lens surface. Moreover, when using image-stabilized binoculars, it's important to hold them steadily and avoid sudden movements. Rest your elbows on a stable surface or use a tripod if possible to minimize hand tremors. Ensure that you're using proper stabilization techniques to maximize the effectiveness of the stabilization feature.

The date feature has to be set up and there is always a way to turn it off and on. I was looking for a manual, but this is not a North America model. This link might work better for you.https://www.google.com/search?q=canon+prima+bf-800+zoom+manualThe Error Codehttps://www.google.com/search?q=canon+prima+bf-800+zoom+hr+ha+errorMake sure the batteries are good!..

If you are using Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable batteries, they have come to the end of their lifespan. Buy New or use AA Lithium batteries. https://www.google.com/search?q=canon+a95+battery ..

If your Canon AV-1 is only shooting in Bulb (B) mode, it could be due to a malfunctioning shutter or aperture control. However, since the light meter is working correctly, it is possible that the issue is with the camera's shutter speed dial. The shutter speed dial is located on the top of the camera and should be set to a specific speed when shooting in aperture-priority mode. If the dial is stuck in the Bulb (B) position, then the camera will only shoot in bulb mode. I would recommend taking your camera to a professional camera repair shop to have it inspected and repaired if necessary.

Real help that is not AI Generated! Articles and instructional videos https://www.google.com/search?q=canon+legria+hf200+clean+lens+and+sensors ..

Yes of course. Take it to your local Canon Service Centre. https://www.google.com/search?q=Canon+Camera+Service+Centre ..

Ef85 f 1.8 ISNT to bad fun cheap lens can be a 50mm f 1.8