Maytag Atlantis MDG7400AW Gas Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

run dryer for 10 minutes then remove vent hose see if start working mean flame on for while, if it is then you need to clean your vent system.

Most likely problem is the exhaust is plugged. Lint build up and eventually restricted the humid exhaust air. To test for this locate the exhaust vent where it exits the house. With the dryer running feel for the air flow. It should be similar to the flow you feel from hair dryer. Second test is to light load the dryer setting the heat to high and after several minutes of operation open the door and confirm the clothes are hot to the touch. Hot clothes and no air flow for ever to dry!!

1. Remove hose from wall connection. Confirm vent hose not plugged by running dryer. Very dusty process. If no air step 2.
2. Remove vent hose from back of dryer. Confirm air flow from dryer. Very dusty process. No air step 3.
3. Service dryer blower likely plugged with lint. If dryer basket turns I would assume blower is also turning connected by drive belt. The blockage internal to dryer.
4. So if not 1,2 or 3 than blocked vent hose to the outside . Suggest using a vacuum hose to carefully try to retrieve lint build up. Lets hope that it is not a roof vent because it would really suck trying to pull the blockage out. And unless your Santa roof tops are dangerous places to play.
5. Well at least at this point we know why the clothes are not getting dry. What ever you do do not breach the venting in the walls. Moisture will build up along with the lint and create havic with mold!!!
6. Call your husband

Not to sure about the leaf blower, Might work? Dryer Vent Cleaning Quick Easy Trick

check the line inside leading to the flame igniter and glo bar, how did u check for gas leak? just smell or sight? try using a mixture of water and dish detergent by spraying it on the lines while gas is on, and if u see bubbles u got gas leak?

There are a few different scenarios which would cause the dryer not to start. First, make sure you door switch is functional. Second, the white thermal fuse, located on the exhaust housing may be open. Worst case scenario would be a defective timer or motor. Either of these may not be cost-effective to replace.

stat heat burner or clogged vent need more detail no heat at all or just not getting hot enough?

Air Flow issue sounds like. Is there go air flow at the rear of unit? Maytags of this style usually wear out blower wheels which moves the air through the unit, check the blower wheel see if you can move it without turning the drum, This is of course with the front panel off, The blower wheel is item #4 in the diagram and it's locate just behind the front panel. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/william_e43a8a4d83a5f604

You either have an issue with your cycling thermostat, or the gas valve solenoids. I could get into a very lengthy explanation as to what to do to diagnose, but for what these two items will probably cost you to buy, I would change both.

That unit has an electronic ignitor. You should not have to lite the pilot. There is no pilot to lite. If the dryer is taking longer then normal to heat. Check your vent to the outside. If the ignitor is not turning on it could be the ignitor, flame sensor and or thermal fuse. Check D.I.Y. Appliance Repair Troubleshooting to see if there is anything that can help you there.

Not too familliar with the gas temp either, but you should definitely take your lint filter out and clean it with soap and water. If you use dryer sheets, they can leave a clear film on your filter and it can be just as bad as a filter full of lint. Try this out, if it works, clean your filter periodically with soap and water to remove the chemical buildup.

I thank you need a new Heating Element Assembly part # Y308612 here is a image of the Heating Element Assembly

drum seals are faultyReplace themGo to the following webpage for partsPlease rate meBudhttp://www.appliancepartspros.com/

On a gas dryer the exhaust duct fuse mounted right next to the control T-stat kills the power to the gas assembly if the blower is restricted or worn out. A common problem with these dryers. If power is indeed getting to the gas assembly I would first check for continuity of the flame sensor switch mounted on the side of the burner area. It's job is to allow the ignitor to fire up when power is delivered to the gas assembly from the control t-stat on that blower housing. The flame sensor has to open when the ignitor reaches 1800f. At that point in time the ignitor becomes a thermocouple even with no power going to it it allows continuity through the coils so that they will get energy enough to yank open the gas valve. While the ignitor is glowing it is hogging all that power and the coils simply cannot pull the valve open. Sometimes a gas dryer will work a little then quit. that would be thos coils on the gas valve are weak. They get hot and fail. To get into the dryer you must first remove the door so that you can next get the front panel off. That will revieal the top holdown clips you remove. Then you can get the shroud off and remove the drum. I bet you would like a service manual for this beast:Slope front Dryer Service Manual If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I need to convert my electric Maytag dryer to Gas The sales person at Home Depot said we could that's why we got this oneanyone know anything about this?Help

their might not be any gas going to it, or the pump for the gas inside the dryer is bad

It sounds as though you have a defective heating element.

My dryers timer wouldn't work correctly and the clothes were taking forever to dry. I decided to check the vent. My advice....Always check your dryer vent before spending any money on unnecessary parts or service calls. This Nest was pulled out of my vent with my shop vac sucking out and my house vac blowing out from inside. It finally broke free and now my dryer works like new.

Best to replace them as the wear can knock the drum out of alignment with the felt seal in the casing. Anything you would put on them to end the noise will either smell or drip into the unit. See Serval for your parts needs and if you run a Web Browser, you can usually get a diagram from the Maytag or Servall sites. I hope my solution helps you.

Hello,
To remove the front open the door and remove the screws from the door hinge,then remove the screws from the other side as if the door were mounted to that side. Place a putty knife in the seam between the front panel and the cabinet at the upper corners of the front panel and pop the panel off from the retainer clips that are mounted to teh cabinet the top of the panel will become free so ya can pull it off from their.


GENE

Hi nvr2hitocu...
You will need to remove the drum to tighten the screws up
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.
Here is a link to see a picture of your belt routing in case the belt is broken when you open your dryer:
http://www.expertappliance.com/dryerbeltconfiguration.html

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you remove and lubricate the drum rollers.
And also clean the shafts of the rollers as they will collect hair,dust,etc and cause problems and then lubricate the shafts and rollers with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting dry and making a squeeling noise, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise.
You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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Repair Clinic If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61