20 Most Recent Maytag Atlantis MDG7400AW Gas Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

A drum support wheel bearing could need lubrication or be replaced.  Also some drum support wheels have a rubber coating that wears off causing misalignment and noise.  Possibly drum gasket (sometimes felt material) where drum meets rear panel is worn allowing metal-to-metal contact--should be replaced.

First thing to check is the ignitor underneath the drum. (You have to open the panel to see it)  It should glow shortly after the dryer starts, then the flame starts and the ignitor shuts off.  If the ignitor is glowing but the gas does not light then the gas valve coils may have to be replaced.  If the gas ignites but does not stay on either the flame sensor or the coils are at fault.

HI, you have two devices that will need to be replaced at this time. these devices work together to regulate the temperature and the cycling of the burner as well. when one or more of these specific devices begins to malfunction, it will cause the symptoms you are experiencing at this time. i will list the affected parts and there respective locations as well below.

Cycling thermostat control, multi-temp, 4 terminal---$29.45

Gas dryer sensor for igniter and flame---$27.80


Replacing these vital parts will fix this issue.

Go out and buy you a duct cleaner. It looks like a dome shaped broom. Clean your duct from the outside and if you can from the inside. Also if you use fabric softener sheets, clean your lint filter with soap and water periodically (every 3 months would be optimal) to remove the clear residue the dryer sheets can leave behind.

Good Luck!

Hi!

Please check the following---

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Please accept this solution and ask for any clarification.

Thanks
Rylee

Is it an auto sensor shut off? If so, it may be that your hose is plugged and so actually takes that long to dry the clothes.

It sounds as if your hose is plugged. Try removing it and cleaning the entire thing out, as well as where it hooks into the dryer.

Usually the ignightor goes out in them. If you have a meter or way of measuring it, you can take off the front panel and it'll be on your bottom left side. You can disconnect it and you should see a short. here is a link to look at and it might help in the dissasembly prosess. By the way, when you 1st turn it on, you should hear a click within seconds down my that also. If it clicks it's very much so the ignightor. Pretty easy and cheap to do. Good luck

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieveModelDetails.pd?modelNumber=MDG7400AWQ&productCategoryId=0151200&brandId=3048&modelName=MAYTAG-LAUNDRY

Most common problem is something blocking the venting process, either somewhere in the vent tube itself,,, or somewhere in the venting system inside the dryer, like maybe the blower fan.

Gas dryers use an electronic igniter, there is no pilot light.

The belt is not the problem but more likely the drum rollers or drum bearing will need to be replaced.

Our Kenmore dryer had the same sort of problem (different catchy names.

Problem was that in "smart" modes (by what ever name, the timer motor runs in series with a "dampness" sensor (thermostat, actually, I think) and A RESISTOR.

Resistor burns out--this is the symptom set.

If the metal-on-metal squeak is coming from the front of the machine, you need to replace the glides. These are plastic pads that support the front of the drum around the door. The rim of the drum slides over them, and they eventually wear through.

Change the cycling thermostat

This problem doesn't sound right, but you could have a bad moisture sensor.

THEY HAD TIMER PROBLEMS WITH THE PULL TYPE.MAKE SURE DOOR SWITCH IS GOOD ALSO

You will have to have the dryer drum felts replaced. It requires removing the drum from the dryer so you may want to have a technician do this because removing the belt can be tricky.

its the switch problem its got tripped internally so its not getting shut off.if the switch would have tripped to the opposite side that the dryer would have nit turned ON. so the switch needs to be opened the tripper needs to be replaced.easy job but very technical. thanks

hi.. check whether the the flame going out is normal. the heat cycles on and off as called for by the thermostat. If the heat doesn't come back on then it would start by changing the gas coils... changing the gas colis will solve ur problem..
thank u!!!

THE BEARING ON YOUR TUB IS GOING OUT AND NEEDS REPLACING