20 Most Recent Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Is the lint filter deformed or does it not fit correctly?

Look at his video to show you how to test the components on your dryer to find the problem. The model is different from yours but the process is the same.

This particular dryer has a blower wheel that is plastic. Over time the wheel gets wobbly and loose. If you hear a rattle that could be the loose blower wheel. This causes the dryer to overheat and take 3 times as long to dry clothes because it trips the limits. To get into the dryer and find out you need to first remove the door. Nice how to video from Angel: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi cayjr1Clogged VentIf your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system. Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle: The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees. When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.) The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again. This cycle continues until the clothes are dry.But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork. Heating ElementYour dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms. Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.Please take time to rate me Bud

Hi Roger ButtramALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.Note: This method works for most front loading machines.If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections. Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.Here is a link to see a picture of your belt routing in case the belt is broken when you open your dryer:http://www.expertappliance.com/dryerbeltconfiguration.html While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you remove and lubricate the drum rollers.And also clean the shafts of the rollers as they will collect hair,dust,etc and cause problems and then lubricate the shafts and rollers with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting dry and making a squeeling noise, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.Please take time to rate meBud

see this causes and fix it. God bless youDryer tumbles, but there is no heat

• Check for proper air flow
• Check the ignitor
• Check gas jet
• Test the gas valve coils
• Check the flame sensor
• Test the safety fuse
• Test the thermostats
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the timer motor
• Test the temperature selector switch

Electric dryers do not require water. Is this a trick question? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

• 1

  Remove the power cord from the wall outlet.

• 2

  Open the dryer door. Remove the screws located along the inside of the doorway with the Phillips screwdriver.

• 3Pull the top part of the front panel away from the MDE5500AY dryer to disconnect it. Lift the front panel up to disconnect it from the metal clips on the dryer cabinet.

• 4

  Unplug the wire connector leading to the door switch.

• 5

  Unscrew and remove the four screws connecting the front panel to the rest of the cabinet. Lift the front panel up and away from the dryer to remove it.

• 6

  Pull the idler pulley toward the left to relieve tension in the belt. Slide the belt off of the idler pulley and the Neptune dryer drum.

• 7

  Route the new dryer belt around the drum and along the pulley system. Release the idler pulley to restore proper tension in the belt. Rotate the drum to ensure the belt is positioned properly.

• 8

  Replace the front panel onto the dryer cabinet. Replace the four screws that connect the front panel to the cabinet of the MDE500AY dryer.

• 9

  Plug the wire connector into the door switch assembly. Lower the front panel down into its original position.

• 10

  Replace the screws along the inside of the doorway.

Hello,
On older maytag dryer's the felt seal wasa seperate part and not part of the drum..the problem is i do not know if the drum on the newer and older dryers is the same diameter they look similar in size but if it isn't exactly right may leave a gap where the clothes will get caught in...however the part number for that seperate felt seal is 314820

Gene

This dryer has 2 thermal fuses. One next to the control stat on the blower housing and another on the heater element. You could quite possibly have a bad blower wheel or simply a lint build up cauing over heating. To get inside this dryer you remove the door first. The you can remove the front. Once that is removed you can pop the top and get the front shroud off. You cannot work from behind. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Could be a faulty door switch, or a fuse in the machine.

The model number you listed shows as an electric dryer If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The blower wheel on these tends to wallow out. That makes the dryer overheat and take twice as long to dry the clothes. Lint begins to build up in the filter housing. Finally the temp exceeds 350 and the round white fuse on the blower housing melts. Boom you has got a dead dryer. To get into the slopefront type dryer seems a bit intimidating bit really is not. Remove the door. The door is reverseable so 2 more screws opposide need to also be removed. Then the goalpost shaped front pops off. Then that reveals the top hold down straps. Remove them and top can be popped. Next you remove the front shroud the drum rides on. then get the drum out. Did I mention you do not work from the back at all on this model? Do not try to fix it in the wash room. Take it ouitside and put it on the picnic table or a tailgate to repair it. You will need a phillips head screwdrivers pliers 1/4 and 5/16 nutdriver and snapring pliers.Shopvac to clean it up and probbaly a new fuse and blower wheel.SERVICE MANUAL If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I had the same problem but it's the FRONT Panel you need to remove. Before you start, unplug the thing first. BTW I did the whole proceedure in 10 minutes using an electric screwdiver / philips bit and a socket set with an 8mm socket with my leg in a cast. You can do better, I'm confident!

Two 8mm hex head bolts hold each fin on the drum. They can be tightened. You need to open the dryer front since they bolt from the outside of the drum. To open the dryer front you first take the door off by removing the two philips head screws, then slightly lift the door and pull toward you (the door hinges have little hooks on the end that inserts into the slots (this little design keeps the door from falling off during removal and install-nice). Then remove the two philips screws on the other side of the door opening (opposite the door hinges). These screws hold two plastic brackets (be sure to see how they are aligned before you remove them so you know how they go back on.

Now the front frame panel looks like an "H" . Grab the top two arms of the 'H" and give a quick ****. The top arms of the 'H" will come loose. The bottom part is held by a couple of clips, just pull up and the front panel comes off.

You will be able to spin the drum until the hex bolts for the fin(s) in question are visable / reachable from the right side (just above the heater unit-hope you unplugged the dryer earlier). I tightened it using an 8 mm socket.

Now reverse your steps: put the front panel back on the bottom clips and snap the top "H" arms back in place. Reinstall the plastic clips / screws and then put the door back on.