20 Most Recent Maytag MER5730 Electric Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

Model number?

You've got a stuck relay on the control board or module. You will have to replace the complete control board (or module). If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Get the schematic from the manufactures web site, customer service, support area. Download the data and read the information you are seeking.

Test for power on the switch at H1 and H2 with the switch on. If there is power there, element is bad. No power, the switch is bad. Here is the switch if you need it. Whirlpool 7403P239 60 Switch Infinite AppliancePartsPros com Here is the element if you need it. Whirlpool 12500039 Element Surface AppliancePartsPros com

Use DeBruce Polish- a true multi-surface cleaner. There is a transfer of particulates from pan to glass surface aided by the heat. The cleaner will remove this "staining". Also use on stainless steel rubbing with the grain- this is the one product that truely cleans the surface. Follow up with baby oil or a stainless steel "polish that is oil based to "seal"the surface.

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The Control Panel may be faulty or it could just be a loose or shorted connection depending on hoyou've cleaned it.

Does the self cleaning function not operate on your range?

Do you have the ability to strip the front panel and gain access to the rear of the touch pad to check the connections?

your element is bad replace element.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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How to test many brands of Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code: You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad.

1. Disconnect power to stove
2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
5. Turn power back on to stove.
6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
8. If after approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
   NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part. * We have seen a few of the newer Maytag ranges with a F1 fault code and the problem was the oven temp sensor, check carefully the wires to and from the oven temp sensor!!

We provide free diagnostic information when you tell us what brand and model number you are having issues with.
We are available from 7 AM – 7 PM CST. We also provide part removal/installation instructions for our customers when parts are purchased through us.
It is our goal to get you back up and running again ASAP, so please contact us when you need us to help you.
We look forward to hearing you and hope that you have a terrific day. Thank you, Ella
http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service

hello there
Please go thru this list of the fault codes for this appliance it will tell lyou what to do for the fault or what part needs to be replaced
MAYTAG FAULT CODES

Maytag Range / Stove / Oven Fault Codes Failure Code Fault Code Description Solution F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC). F1 Defective touch pad or clock (ERC) Replace touch pad or clock (ERC). Touch pad is a more common problem. Refer to F1 test at the top of this page for more information. F2 Oven temperature too hot Replace relay board, if present, or oven temperature sensor (RTD). Check sensor harness. F3
or
F4 Shorted or open oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok. F5 Watchdog and hardware conflict Replace clock (ERC). F7 Function key shorted or stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC). F8 Analog / Digital problem Replace clock (ERC). F9 Door latch Check door latch components. Find Parts

the burner is probably ok and the sw is bad . turn off power and pull hnob off two screws hold sw . replace one wire at a time reinstall . burner should work .. mm

The door actually lift out if you grab it on either side and lift up, the hinge will come up and you can lift the door off. Then, it's just a matter of taking the screws out around the edge and you can get the glass out. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

you need to replace the inner connetor to make it work.