A defrost water drain pan should located under the unit on top the coils. Or in the outside in back mounted on top of compresser I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720
Check your fan next to the compressor if it's running ,also check your evaporator fan if it's running. If both fans are running and you still have ice built-up then you may have a refrigerant leak
2 possible issues. If compressor running, but not cooling - No freon in the system, or compressor valves are bad, not compressing freon. Ideal would be to check pressures on the system while its running. Could be some kind of restriction. most common problem i would guess low freon level. Here are 2 of my videos i have on my channel. first is leak found at evaporator coils. i used leak dye to find it, second video is replacing compressor, but had compressor completely down. installed 3-n-1 hard start kit, but compressor did not come on, so replaced compressor with filter drier. Hope this will give you an idea what to do next.
It is in the top refrigerator shelf behind that plastic shild. Take the shild off and I think that model is just a quarter turn and the little cylinder comes out
Even if the unit if issue free, this older design is still suseptable to moisture intrusion behind the inner liner. If your ice is below or around where the fointain area is, than you may be leaking water from the fountain behind the outer door shell. Since your outer door and inner liner are no longer avail, the best suggestion is to turn the entire fridge off, and let everything completely dry before re assembly. Once insulation gets imbedded with moisture and freezes, the insulation factor diminishes. Although your outer door insulation should be the newer style semi solid foamed in style, so moisture intrusion will not be any deeper than an inch or so. If the fountain heater has failed around the dispenser, you attract moisture to that area too. Pleazer Appliance...
you dont give any detail at all, so my best guess is you have a sealed system leak of refrigerant. This is NOT something you can repair yourself, only an EPA Certified Refrigerator Repair service can perform these types of repairs. Its possible it might be something else, I am just guessing after all, i would have a qualified refrigerator repair service inspect and diagnose your fridge.
Make sure the condenser is clean and clear, and all fans are working as they should. Also check the freezer section for signs of ice build up. A good defrost and a cleanup usually does the trick!
If it's in direct sunlight, try to limit the heat with a blind.
The touch pad is not avail separatley, the conplete Facade/Escutcheon needs to be replaced. Part# 61005386 approx $160.00. In some cases the original clear plastic protective film might still be left on the front of the facade. Pleazer Appliance...
From your description it sounds like the start components (start relay, overload and capacitor) are having problems. The clicking you hear is probably the overload kicking out to protect the compressor. It is quite possible that the compressor simply has gotten too hot and after sitting a while will restart when plugged back in. The start components are not generally considered 'user serviceable' parts. When the compressor has cooled to pretty much room temp, plug it in and be listening for those clicks. If you hear them, unplug it because it could eventually damage the compressor. Those components give the compressor an extra jolt to get the compressor running then they drop out of the circuit. If the compressor doesn't start, it creates heat until the overload drops out.
If the insulation in the door has blown, it cannot be replaced. If there is a dispenser in the door, look at all the plastic parts for any splits or leaks. To test if it is the dispenser, turn off the water supply for a few days. If the water stops collecting in the door it's a good sign.
Is your compressor giving sounds like a buzz followed by a click periodically? Is the compressor exterior warm/hot? Most likely the compressor start relay assembly is bad, or the compressor is locked up, (frozen internally). If you connect an amp probe to the red wire of the compressor, and the momentary reading meets or exceeds the LRA rating on the compressor tag, most likely the compressor is at fault. Pleazer Appliance...
not a bulb problem, the computer board is what makes the light dim. for the price of replacing the main board i would just let it work the way it is. if the light fails completely, then think about a new board, but its not really a thing that is needed.
